Web
and Book design,
Copyright, Kellscraft Studio
1999-2007
(Return
to Web
Text-ures)
|
(HOME)
|
CHAPTER VII.
Mountain-scenery. — A Midnight Illumination. — The Valley of the West Branch. — A Blasted Tree. — Skeletons. — A Moose Yard. — Fishing in the West Branch. — Wash scouts ahead, and makes an Agreeable Discovery.
WE packed
up our
luggage, and, going round the head of the pond to the westward (to
avoid the
crags on the east side), went on during the forenoon past the pond. For dinner
we had
another “hasty-pudding,” with maple-sugar, and some exceedingly cold
water from
a spring at the foot of the mountain-ridge which formed the north-west
side of
the pond-basin. During the
afternoon we toiled up the side of this mountain through a mixed growth
of
beeches, maples, and birches. Toward the summit spruces began, low,
shaggy, and
black, as if dwarfed by bleak winds. The summit itself is a line of
granite
ledges, rising bare and gray above the dark evergreens. After some
searching
for crevices and cracks, we climbed up and stood on the crest fairly
above the
line of tree-tops. Wash had been a little ahead. Turning as he gained
the top,
he looked off, and gave an involuntary “Hurrah!”
In a
moment more I was beside him. “Grand,
isn’t it?”
he exclaimed. Raed and
Wade came
climbing up; and we all stood enjoying the magnificent view. The whole
country
to the southward was spread out as in a picture. The pond we had passed
was at
our feet, though really four or five miles away. Far to the southward
rose the
two peaks, separated by the deep valley through which we had come up
into the
“brulé” three days before. Seven shining ponds were in sight. Over the
whole
landscape there rested, like a glorious tide, the bright, warm light of
the
waning sun. But not a trace of human habitation could be detected
throughout
the region. The wilderness enclosed us on all sides. The ponds
sparkled, the
streams glided onward, and the breezes rustled through the moving
tree-tops;
but man was absent. “And vet
the world
existed for millions of years before human eyes ever saw it,” said
Raed; “a
wilderness just like this, with nothing save the forests and the wild
beasts.
This is how the world looked before man with his axe and his fire had
come into
it. Panthers and bears were then the rulers of this continent, and held
all the
lower animals under the despotism of their bloody appetites.” “I wish it
had
never been worse governed since!” exclaimed Wade sententiously. Raed
looked blank
at that. Wash laughed, and suggested that we should go across the
ledges and
see what we could discover on the north side. A walk of twenty rods
over a
bare, rough ledge brought us to the brink of a “fall-off” of twenty or
thirty
feet, down to where the tops of the spruces showed over the rocks. The
view on
this side was wilder and grander than the other; but it lacked the
sunny beauty
of the southward landscape, as all northward views must. Below us was a
great
valley; and it needed not Mount Katahdin towering in sombre grandeur
twenty miles
to the north-east, nor an occasional silvery gleam half hidden by the
forest,
to make us recognize it as the Valley of the West Branch. The
silvery
glimpses along the sink of the valley led off to a broad sheet of
water, half
hidden in distant haze, which we identified as Lake Chesuncook,
through which
the West Branch flows. The
appearance of
Mount Katahdin from this point was rugged and forbidding. It was not a
single
peak, but an assemblage of peaks — four at least — resting on one
broad,
block-like base. Even at this distance it seemed to tower above us with
a
certain imposing vastness. There were patches, or spots, entirely nude
of
trees, and looking gray and bare. Our little pocket-glass revealed
them as
precipices and cliffs, which, com pared with the known dimensions of
the
mountain, must have been many hundred feet in height. “Ho for
old
Katahdin!” shouted Wash, “the home of the Indian Devil, where Pomoola
reigns in
scowling majesty!” “And where
our
future fortunes lie — in lead!” added Raed. “We must never forget the
legendary
lead.” “Looks as
if there
might be a nice place for shot-towers,” said Wade, with the glass still
directed
toward one of the gray precipices. “But
where’s the
hay-farm?” said Raed, turning to me; “the clearing on the river that
you told
us of?” This
clearing has
been described to me as near the West Branch, not many miles below the
foot of
Lake Chesuncook. As very much depended on our being able to reach this
place,
we scanned the whole valley along the river with some little anxiety;
but no
signs of a clearing were discernible from where we stood. Meanwhile
the
sinking sun bade us prepare for night. Going along the ridge to a place
where
the ledges were less steep, we made our way down a little from the
summit to a
clump of very thick, shaggy spruces standing at the foot of the moist
rocks.
About the trunk of one of the largest of these Wash kindled a fire;
Wade began
to gather wood; Raed was unpacking eggs and get ting the kettle ready;
while I
followed along at the roots of the ledges to find a spring, — that sine qua non of all wildwood
voyagers,
young or old. Trickling out of a mossy crevice, I soon espied it with
its
silvery tinkling, and cool, moist breath. Hail, daughter of the rocks!
I run
forward to make its acquaintance by means of the gill dipper, and
carefully
taste the water to see that no noxious oxides had tainted its pure
bounty. Four eggs
apiece
and another “pudding” made up our supper. From
Wade’s
observation by means of the aneroid, the spot where we were encamped
was
twenty-five hundred and ninety feet above the sea-level, — about that.
Wade
always added the “about that,”
to
have us bear in mind that the aneroid might not be absolutely correct. I had
found nothing
of importance in the mineralogical line, unless I mention a very
beautiful
fragment of rose quartz which I had picked up at the foot of the ledges
on the
other side; and Wash’s remark concerning it, that he should like to
have a
house with the walls built of rose
quartz
in the place of brick or brown stone. Raed spoke
of the
huge granite ledges which formed the crest of the mountain. “Why is it,” said Wade, “that this granite is on the very summit of the mountain, while the lower parts of the same mountain are of a different kind of rock, — a kind you call sandstone?” “To
understand
that,” replied Raed, “you must bear in mind two things: first, that
sand stone
is a rock formed by the action of water; second, that granite is a rock
formed
by the ac tion of fire, or, as some geologists think, of fire and
steam
together. Many ages ago, the continent is thought to have been under
water, —
under the ocean. It was then that the sandstone which forms the sides
of this
mountain was formed — laid down
as it is termed — on the bottom of the sea. The rivers, you know, are
constantly
bearing mud and earth into the sea, which settles to the bottom, layer
after
layer, and finally, by its own weight, consolidates into stone. But,
after many
ages, the continent of America gradually rose above the waters, — very
much,
perhaps, as the Scandinavian peninsula is now rising gradually higher
and
higher each century. Be sides these slow changes of level, there have
also
been more sudden and violent changes, — upheavals they are called, —
by the
sudden action of which mountains and long mountain-chains are thrown
up. This
mountain was doubtless formed in this way: The sandstone beds swelled
up like a
bubble, from some internal pressure; and, breaking apart at the top
here, a
mass of granite gushed out from within, either in a mol ten or a
liquid state.
Granite, you know, is composed of quartz and felspar and mica mingled
together.
Internal heat from some source
had melted or dissolved this quartz, felspar, and mica, and mingled
them
together to form granite.” “You speak
of
internal heat from ‘some source;’ why, the whole interior of the earth
is a
mass of fire and lava; is it not?” demanded Wash. “That was long believed; but the idea is now pretty thoroughly exploded,” said Raed. “Indeed, some of the best geologists have always doubted it.” “Why, I
thought
everybody believed that the inside of the earth was in a molten state,”
said
Wade. “The best
geologists now reject the idea wholly,” replied Raed, “for reasons I
will try
to explain at some other time. It is getting rather late now.” “I say,
Raed,”
cried Wade, “did you post up on all this geology this last spring?” “Mostly,”
said
Raed, laughing. “I knew little or nothing about it before we planned
this expedition
for the yacht. That set me to studying, you know. All a fellow needs
is a stimulus. But
let’s ‘turn in,’ and get
rested for to-morrow.” There were
no
mosquitoes here; too high up for them. I hacked off the spruce-boughs
for our
bed; Wade put more wood on the fire, piling it around the trunk of the
spruce,
which stood over the blaze like a huge umbrella, with its wide,
drooping
boughs, pendent mosses, and knobs of gum, that fried with the rising
heat;
while Raed and Wash carried off flaming brands to kindle a second fire
a few
rods away to warn off prowlers. There was some talk of standing guard;
“but we
were all pretty sleepy, and concluded to risk it. It was very cosy
under the
blankets, with our feet to the fire, and the thick evergreen tops to
keep off
the dew. The last thing I remember was watching the blaze leaping up
against
the trunk of the spruce;... then came dreams,... from which I was
awakened by a
prodigious shake, accompanied by shouts and a loud crackling roar.
Leaping up, a
bright glare blinded my eyes. I pitched against some body, and was
pulled and
hustled away by Raed. All this in an instant, when I saw the great
spruce under
which we were sleeping wrapped in flames from top to bottom. Our fire
about the
roots of it had run up on the scorched bark, and caught into the top.
Trailing
mosses, gum, and the mass of dry twigs and foliage, blazed like a huge
scintillating firework, with a noise like the snapping of a thousand
gun-caps.
Raed had been the first to wake. Ding-bat was barking. We all scrambled
out
together to escape the shower of burning twigs and the scorching heat. “Gracious!”
exclaimed Vade. “I-gad-e-o!”
from
Wash, his very nearest approach to profanity. “Rush in,
fellows,
and save the things!” shouted Raed. All our
buckets,
guns, ammunition, kettle, etc., which had been set only a few feet from
the
fire, together with our blankets, were right under the blazing mass. “Rush in!
grab one
thing at a time! — like this!” and Raed darted under the fiery umbrella
and
dragged out the blankets, smoking and smelling pretty strong, but with
only a
few little holes burned in them. Wade,
following his
example, brought out one of the buckets; Wash got the other
considerably
scorched on one side; I secured the kettle and the shot-gun; and Raed,
making
another dive, brought out the rifle and hatchet. “There!”
exclaimed
he, puffing. “Let her blaze! Didn’t break those eggs, did you, Wash?”
Thanks to
the meal, the remaining eggs were all right. We carried the things back
a few rods,
and sat down on the rocks to get breath. The flames streamed up through the spruce top to the height of forty or fifty feet. It was, in very truth, a pillar of fire. The rough, gray ledges above reflected the ruddy glare, and all the darkened forest below started out into view. A few minutes sufficed to burn out the twigs and gum. But, meanwhile, the blaze had communicated to the adjoining spruces. The whole clump was speedily enveloped in flames; though the first had burned to the bare branches, and stood like a blackened skeleton. “There’s a bonfire for you,” exclaimed Wash, “such as these wild crags never saw before, I guess!” As many as
a dozen
spruces and firs — in fact, the whole clump in which we were encamped —
were
now afire. A tremendous crackling, and the roaring rush of the air
drawn in by
the conflagration, resounded from the rocks. Quite a number of small
birds,
disturbed from their roosts or their nests, darted out of the thick
tops, and
flew round and round the blaze: we thought we saw several drop into it.
Two or
three larger birds (owls or hawks) started out from the crag above, and
went
flapping off into the darkness. Once we heard the sharp yap of a fox from the top of
the ledges, —
a querulous note, half way between a howl and a dog-bark. We could
imagine
little Reynard staring with picked nose and round suspicious eye from
the top
of the rocks, till surprise and wonder had elicited this ejaculatory yap. Ding-bat instantly
responded in the
best of Chinese doggerel. But, though a foreign tongue, I think Reynard
understood. He said no more. The barking, however, received an answer
from
another quarter. Far down the mountain side to the westward there
arose a
distant, far-borne howl. Wash pronounced it the howl of a gray wolf;
and it
certainly sounded as much like a wolf as anything. The fire
soon
burned out. The night, banished for a time, began to close in upon us
again. On
looking to the watch, it was found to be but a few minutes past eleven.
We
crept back to our fire, which still smouldered at the roots of the
denuded
spruce; and shaking up our bed of green boughs, which had not burned,
we moved
it a little back out of the smut, and went to bed again. “No need
of
standing guard,” remarked Raed. “We’ve had fire enough to warn off all
the big
cats, I reckon.” We were
soon
asleep; and the sunlight was glinting aslant the rocks when I next
awoke. The
blackened spruces still smoked lazily, bearing witness to last night’s
illumination. While Wash
and Raed
were boiling the remaining twelve eggs, Wade and I climbed to the top
of the
ledges again to see if it were possible to discover any indication of
the
“hay-farm” by means of a morning smoke, which might be sup posed to be
rising
at about this time. But the whole river-valley was filled with a vast
tide of
fog, which rose almost to our feet. As well seek to decry a sunken
wreck on the
bed of the Atlantic. We ate our
breakfast of eggs and a single cooky with more anxiety than we had
previously
felt since starting. There was just meal and sugar enough left for one
pudding.
Unless we could reach the hay-farm by night-fall, we should have to
depend on
whatever we might shoot, or catch from the river, for our supper. In an hour
we were
on our way, going due north down the side of the mountain. It was
decided to
make a “bee-line” for the river, then follow up in search of the
clearing. By nine
o’clock the
fog had lifted, and the sun shone down brightly through the lofty
tree-tops. We
were passing through a growth of great beauty and size. Basswoods,
fully three
feet in diameter, rose, like tall columns, fifty and sixty feet without
a
branch. Mixed with these forest monarchs were hemlocks and white-pines,
with
their roughly-furrowed bark of dark weathered red. One of these great
hemlocks
drew our attention from having a small splintery groove running down
the
trunk. Glancing up to the top, we saw that it was dead, gray and sear.
The tree
was what lumber-men call “winding.” The groove, we had observed
followed the
grain of the wood, and passed clean around the trunk ere reaching the
ground. I
was just saying that the tree had been struck by lightning, and that
such
instances were very common in the woods; when Wash exclaimed,‑ “See
there,
fellows!” pointing to the ground near the foot of the hemlock. “Look at
that!” “Bones!”
said Raed.
“Skeletons!”
cried
Wade. Partially
covered
with twigs and leaves lay the undisturbed skeletons of three animals.
At first
we had fancied they were human; and a terrible vision of murder or
starvation
rose in imagination. But, on clearing away the rubbish, it was evident
that
they were caribou-deer. One was considerably larger and more massive
than the
others, suggesting the idea that it was a buck and two does, or perhaps
an old
female with two half-grown fawns: we were uncertain which was most
probable.
Taking into account their nearness to the blasted hemlock, Raed was of
the
opinion that they had been killed by the same stroke of lightning;
though how
the carcasses should have been left undisturbed by the many
carnivorous
prowlers, that could hardly fail to nose them out, was not so easily
explained,
unless we believe the theory of certain old woods men who say that “no
critter
will ever tech another that’s been struck by lightnin’.” But that
either the
gray wolf or the glutton (Gulo
luscus)
should respect the seal of the electric death-stroke seems rather nice
for
them, especially after what we saw of the latter animal on the coast
of
Labrador.* The
character of
the forest gradually changed as we proceeded. Maples, ashes, and
balsam-firs
began to take the place of the loftier trees. Clumps of alders showed
here and
there; and about eleven o’clock a cool breeze, rustling among the
hitherto-motionless boughs, announced our approach to the river. Ten
minutes
more, and through the opening forest our eyes were gladdened by the
broad blue
channel of the West Branch. The water was low; at least, we judged so
from the
marks on the banks. The stream was perhaps twenty rods wide, — as wide
as the
Merrimack at Concord, or the Androscoggin at Lewiston. At the place
where we
struck it, the current, though not swift, was yet far from sluggish,
moving
forward with a calm, steady sweep, that, contrasted with the
forest-set
shores, had a certain grand seeming. Half a mile above, however, as we
followed
up the bank, we came to what might with tolerable propriety be termed
rapids,
the pas sage of which with a canoe would have been at tended with
some
danger. Piles of driftwood were strewn along the bank. Great trees
washed out
by the roots hung stranded upon the black ledges that here and there
rose above
the water. There was quite a perceptible roar from the cur rent where
it
fretted on the bowlders that showed out in the channel. Patches of
yellow-white
foam had gathered in the lee of the rocks. Building a
fire, we
dipped up water from the river, and, suspending our kettle, soon had
the
pudding bubbling. There was barely enough to satisfy four of us, hungry
as we
were. Ding-bat looked on very wistfully. We gave him the scrapings of
the
kettle, which he ate at one mouthful, dog-fashion. “There is
one
advantage in being out of provisions,” remarked Wash as we took up our
empty
buckets. “We don’t have it to lug.” But this
was rather
poor consolation: we thought so, at least, as we trailed on up the
river with
but a rather hazy prospect of reaching the hay-farm, the very existence
of
which we had come to doubt. About four
o’clock
we passed a tract where the bark had been gnawed from all the trees and
bushes.
For a space of a quarter of a mile along the hillside, which sloped
down to the
river, nearly all the shrubbery was dead from this cause, looking as if
blasted
by fire. I had heard of such spots; and it only needed the excrement
which
covered the ground to convince me that it was an old “moose-yard,” — a
place
where a herd of moose had spent several months during the past winter,
after
the snow had got too deep for them to range about. In confirmation of
this conclusion,
Wade stumbled upon the discarded antlers of a stag lying partially
under the
leaves. These had probably been shed during the winter; perhaps not
till as
late as February, though they are commonly dropped during December or
January.
Having an idea that moose-horn was valuable, Wash made a rather boyish
attempt
to shoulder them, and so take them along with him to the hay- farm;
but, as the
weight could not have been less than fifty or sixty pounds, he soon
dropped
them. Raed was
bidding us
notice that nearly all the stones and bowlders were of granite, —
“stray
fragments from Mount Katahdin,” he said. Instinctively
we
turned our eyes northward, where the grand old mountain towered in
massive
grandeur, its gray crags and beetling precipices looming high over the
forest
on the other bank. Farther on, the shore was heaped with water-worn
pebbles as
large as a goose-egg, and from that up to the size of a big pumpkin.
These were
once rough fragments of granite broken from the ledges. For ages the
current
has washed and rolled them over each other, till at last they have
grown round
and smooth as marbles. “They’ve
been
rounding off and smoothing a thousand years, perhaps,” remarked Wade. “Yes, a hundred thousand! said Raed. “These pebbles (tossing one in the air) are older than the Pyramids; older than Adam; older than the pretended records of Babylon, or the genealogy of the Turkish sultans.” “They’re very much like those used to pave the streets with,” said Wash; “like those they bring from the beach at Nahant.” “Yes; and
worn and
smoothed by the same great agent, — water” (plunging the pebble into
the
river). The sun
was getting
low; and still no signs of the clearing. As we should be obliged to
fish for
our supper, Raed gave the order to halt, build a fire, and get out our
fish-hooks. A red squirrel was barking
from the bough of a black-ash. Wash dropped
him off with the shot-gun for bait. While Wade was building a fire
(that was
generally his business), the rest of us cut some alder fishing- poles,
and,
stringing our hooks, baited them, and dropped into the river where the
foam had
collected above a rick of drift logs. Instantly I felt a tug, and threw out a fine,
heavy trout,
his speckled sides flashing in the sun. Raed had out another ere I had
got mine
off the hook. Wash, meanwhile, had gone farther up the bank. Half an
hour soon
passes when one is busy pulling out trout. We had thirty-seven,
weighing from
one to three pounds, wriggling and hopping on the bank, when the sun,
going
behind the trees, admonished us to draw in our lines. Wade had stood
looking
on. “Where’s
Wash?”
asked Raed. We looked
round. “He went
up the
stream,” said I. “Up there fishing, I guess.” “Wash!”
shouted
Raed. “Wash!” “Hollo!”
“HOLLO!”
making the
forest resound. No answer.
“Can’t be
he’s
fallen into the river, can it,” demanded Raed, hastily untying his
line, “or
that anything has pounced upon him?” “We must
look him
up!” exclaimed Wade, running to fetch the guns. “You are
sure you
saw him going up the bank,” said Raed. I was
tolerably
sure of it. We hurried on up the stream, looking carefully to the
water, and
with sharp glances off among the trees, — twenty, thirty, forty rods.
Not a
trace nor a track. “Strange!”
muttered
Raed apprehensively. “Let’s go on, though.” On we went
nearly
as much farther; when we suddenly espied Wash running down the bank
towards us,
hat in hand. “Where
have you
been ?” cried Raed. “What do you mean by going off without letting us
know?” “I’ve
found it!”
shouted Wash. “I’ve found the hay-farm! It’s all right; not more’n half
a mile
farther. I thought I’d scout ahead a little while you were fishing. I
came out
into the clearing.” “Hurrah!” shouted Wade. “Let’s hurry back and get the things!”
________________________________
* See
second volume
of this series. |