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CHAPTER XI.
Katahdin ho! — The Shadow of a Tragedy. — A Ghastly Omen. — Mr. Bowditch’s Spotted Path. — Up the “Great Slide.” — Grand Scenery. — A Cowberry-Fire. — On to the Main Peak. — The Chimney. — Perennial Snow.
I WAKED
quite early
the next morning, — before sunrise considerably. Cluey was up, however;
so was
Raed. They were talking. Cluey was telling him that we should find the
ascent
of Katahdin a very difficult task, a great under taking, and all that
sort of
thing. In short, he thought it was too much for us, and was advising
Raed to
give it up, — not to think of it. Of course
such
advice was all thrown away on Raed. I heard him tell Cluey that he
would be on
the summit in four days if he lived and the weather was pleasant. The
old man
said no more. “Shall you
take up
with our offer to go with us?” Raed asked. I expected
he was
going to refuse. Consider ably to my surprise, he said, — “Wal, yer
offer is
a good ‘un anough. I’ve gut mer hay all cut an’ stecked: an’ ef yer
bound ter
go, — why, I’ll go with ye, pay or no pay; fer I ruther expect you’ll
need me.”
“Good on
your old
head!” exclaimed Raed. “You shall have your pay, not only for your
time, but
for all your grub that we are eating up here.” He said
this so
loud, that it waked Wash and Wade. Somehow
Cluey
seemed much more of a man this morning than he had the previous
evening, — a
circumstance which again recalled Raed’s suspicion concerning the
“green
bottle.” Another circumstance struck me as rather confirmatory of the
same
suspicion. The green bottle, as it stood on the table-shelf, seemed to
be
wholly or nearly empty. It was hardly probable that Cluey had brought
an empty
glass-bottle all the way from Mattawamkeag: he was no such a man. Cluey got
breakfast. Raed
thought we had
best set out immediately. We paid
Cluey five
dollars for what we had eaten and destroyed. He did not ask it; but
Raed gave
it to him. We also purchased of him, from his supplies, thirty-five
pounds of
corn-meal, — as nearly as we could guess at it, — three pounds of
coffee, four
of sugar, and twenty of beef; all for five dollars. Raed also paid him
for
fifteen days in advance, — in all, forty dollars; which he concealed,
for safe
keeping during his absence, in an old stump a few rods from the shanty.
His
reason for not leaving it in the shanty was, “Sumbuddy mout cum along
ter stay
all night, an’ git the old thing afire.” We appreciated that. As we had
two guns,
Cluey did not think it best to take his own; a very heavy rifle of the
old
stamp. He merely took his knife, — a large, sharp jack-knife,
serviceable as a
butcher-knife, a bowie-knife, or a dirk. We also engaged the services
of his
veteran coffee-pot. By nine o’clock we were ready for a start; and,
turning
the button on the shanty-door, filed off to ward the river-bank. Cluey
carried
the meal in a bag he had furnished for it; Raed came next, with the
meat in one
of the buckets; Wash next, with the coffee and sugar in the other
bucket; after
him Wade, with the guns, hatchet, and blankets; and finally the narrator, closing the file,
with the old
kettle, mosquito-bar, ammunition, coffee-pot, etc. Cluey had
come up
the river in a small bateau
he
owned, — a flat-bottomed skiff about fifteen feet by three and a half.
In this
we embarked, and proceeded to pole across to the opposite bank. The
current of the
West Branch is too swift to admit of the use of paddles in ascending
the
stream. Boatmen use poles altogether in going up. In coming down,
however, the
paddle is used to guide the canoe, as well as the wooden bateaux. Coming down is an easy
job,
provided the steersman possesses sufficient skill to shoot the rapids
in
safety. At the
point where
we were crossing the channel was not more than twelve or fifteen rods
wide.
Running the boat in upon the pebbles on the bank, we jumped out and
unloaded
our cargo. “Will you
leave the
bateau here?”
asked Raed. “I don’t jest like ter du that,” said Cluey. “A gang o’ tham river-driver fellars may cum along an’ tuk it off with ‘um: we ken pull it up among that ar clump uv alders, though,” pointing to where these bushes fringed the bank a few rods below. So,
getting in
again, we let the boat drop down opposite the bushes, then poled it in
under
them. It was at a place where the current, or a part of it, from the
main
channel, set in strongly to ward the shore, and gouged under the bank.
The
water was deep up to the very roots of the alders. Tiny whirlpools were
forming; and a drift of yellow-white froth had lodged against the
shore,
mingled with which were chunks of driftwood. The bank shook as we jumped out upon it, making the froth wave back. Cluey took hold of the nose of the bateau to draw it up: the rest of us stood ready to catch hold on each side as soon as he had drawn it out of the water. Suddenly Wade started back. “Good
God!” he
exclaimed; “see there!” pointing to the foam which had parted a little
from
the bank. It was a ghastly spectacle. Bobbing up with the wavelets was the face of a man!* — a corpse floating on its back! The foam clung round the pallid face, and wreathed the streaming hair; and, horrible! where the body had lain against the black earth of the bank, a host of slimy snails had fastened to the cheek and clothes. The drenched garments still held around the body, though rent and torn to tatters, which, streaming up, mingled with the froth and floating dirt. Cluey let go the canoe. We all stared, and grew sick at the sight. “Drowndid!”
exclaimed the old man solemnly, — “drowndid, an’ washed ashore!” “Pull up
the boat,”
said Raed in a low voice. “Let’s pull the boat up; then we must try to
get the
body out.” The bateau was drawn back among the
bushes. Raed then
took a
stick, and gently drew the corpse up to the bank. “Come,
boys,” said
he; for we shrank back despite ourselves. “It’s our duty. We should any
of us
wish the same thing done for us if we had been thus unfortunate; and we
may
be.” With
averted faces
we lifted the dripping corpse out upon the bank, and then, getting the
board-seats
out of the boat, laid it across them, and carried it back through the
alders to
a dry knoll. Wash brought water in an old tin bumper, which Cluey kept
in the
bateau to bail it with; and we rinsed the foam and dirt from the face
of the
dead. The body had evidently been lying in the water for some time. The
skin
was worn off in many places. One boot was gone. The coat and pants were
in
rags. Yet it seemed to have been a young man. The hair had quite
recently been
“shingled,” and the beard shaven; all save the mustache, which was of a
light-brown color. On the left little finger was a small seal- ring.
There were
no marks of violence, unless a bruise on the head could be thus
construed.
Raed, at first, thought this looked as if there had been foul play; but
Cluey
thought it might full as likely have been received in coming over the
rapids
above from striking against the rocks. On the whole, this appeared most
probable, especially as, on examining the inner vest-pocket, we found a
pocket-book containing forty-seven dollars in greenbacks. The fragment
of a
watch- guard hung from a button-hole of the vest. The watch itself had
probably
dropped from the pocket, and broken away. In the coat were several bits
of wet
paper: one, the envelope of a letter, had borne a direction and
address; but
the water had dissolved it out save the post mark, — Portland, June 3.
This
was all the clew there remained on the body to establish its identity. “This
ere’s a very
sad affa’r,” muttered Cluey. “Poor yonker! Went up by way o’ Moosehead
proberly. Undertuk ter cum down the West Branch ‘ere in er cunno. Gut
oversot
an’ drowndid.” “The
question now
arises,” said Raed, “what ought we to do?” “At home,”
replied
Wash, “the way would be to notify the authorities, so as to have a
coroner’s
inquest.” “Yes; but,
in order
to notify the authorities here, we should have to go forty or fifty
miles,”
said Raed. “Ought we to do it?” “No,” said
Wade. “No,” said
Wash. “It wud
luke like
axin a leettle tu much,” remarked Cluey, “we bein’ mere strairngers tu
‘im.” “But think
of the
anxiety of his friends!” said Raed. “How do
you know he
had any?” asked Wade. “Besides, we can’t be expected to assume such
responsibilities.” “Well, we
can at
least bury him,” said Raed. “It would be unchristian not to do that,”
said
Wash. “Must
barry ‘im uv
coorse,” put in Cluey. “But where
shall we
bury him?” I asked. “We might take him over to your clearing, Mr.
Robbins,”
said Raed. Cluey
looked a
little disconcerted. “I don’t
b’l’eve in
ghosts or any think o’ that sort,” he began: “still, ‘twouldn’t be jest
cheery
ter hey a dead corpse barried thar, me livin’ alone so.” “Then why
not bury
him here?” asked Wade. “One place is as good as another, I suppose.” We carried
him
along the bank to a place where it was dry and sandy. Wash sharpened
off the
two boards at the ends, and chamfered them down so as roughly to
resemble
shovels. With these we dug a grave in the sand about three feet in
depth. Raed
had cut off a quantity of hemlock-boughs from the low shrubs standing
near.
With these we lined the grave. Cluey and Wade then laid in the body,
and we all
stood round it with uncovered heads for a space of fully five minutes.
Raed
then laid in more boughs, entirely covering the body with them. This
done, Wash
and I filled in the sand, and Wade drove down the boards with the
hatchet, —
one at the head, the other at the foot, of the rude grave. “Is not
this a
rather ghastly omen for us, — just setting out into the same wilds, —
to have
this corpse coming floating down to meet us?” said Wash, with a certain
seriousness in his tones. “I hope
you are not
foolish enough to suppose this accident has any thing to do with our
affairs,”
replied Raed. “What’s to
be done
with this money?” asked Wade, pointing to the pocket-book with its
little roll
of drenched bills, which had been laid down on the sand, together with
the
ring. “It must
be kept
for his friends,” replied Raed, “if they can be ascertained. We shall
be
obliged to take them with us, I suppose, for the present.” “That
might be
awkward in the event of much public suspicion relative to this affair,”
remarked Wade. “What do
you mean?”
asked Raed. “Why, our
having
this money and this ring in our possession,” replied Wade. “Persons
have been
convicted of murder on no better evidence.” “That’s
so!”
exclaimed Wash. Raed
seemed a
little staggered. “Tell ye
what,
yonkers,” said Cluey, “I’ve ben a-thinkin’ as ‘ow it mont be a good
plan ter
put up a notiss on a pole ‘ere. Its orfen done. Parties of loggers is
goin’ up
an’ down the river ‘ere ev’ry few weeks. Put up a notiss on a
conspikerous
pole, statin’ jest ‘ow it war; also ‘ow much money war found on the
buddy, an’
whar the frens uv the dizeased ken h’ar on’t.” “That’s
the idea
exactly!” exclaimed Raed. “Cut a pole, Kit: I’ll write a statement.” I cut and
trimmed a
long alder-pole, and made a cleft in the top end, in which Raed
inserted the
following statement, written on a small sheet of paper from his diary:
— AUGUST, 186
— . “The body of
an unknown man, apparently about twenty-five years old, was this day
found in
the river at this place, and buried in the sand ten feet back of this
pole, by
the following persons (here Raed gave all our names in full.) “There were
found on the body one small seal-ring, worn on the left little finger,
and the
sum of forty-seven dollars in greenbacks, which may be applied for
after the
first day of October next, at No. — , Tremont Street, Boston, Mass. “Will the finder of this slip please forward it, with particulars, to either the Bangor or Boston papers?” The pole
was then
set up in the sand, and a strip from Raed’s handkerchief tied just
below the
paper as an additional signal. (It may
here be
added, that, up to November of the same year, no application had been
made for
the ring or the money; though a party of lumber-men saw the notice, and
carried
it down to Bangor, where it was published in several papers, and copied
into
many others.) I have
often
reflected concerning this mysterious incident since, and wondered
whether we
did the right thing under the circumstances. It seems to me that it was
all I
could have expected a similar party to have done by my own body, if
found in
the same way; and then again, when I think of some fond mother or
anxious
father watching and waiting for the return of the one who fills that
shallow
grave in the wildwood sands, I fear we have not made sufficient effort
to set
the fact of his death before the public. Raed has written to ask
whether it
would not be advisable to spend the whole sum found on the body in
advertisements, which may possibly reach the eye of some relative of
the
unfortunate young man, who may, at least, be able to claim the ring. It was
afternoon
before we had finished these miserable rites and were ready to go on.
Cluey
asked if we should have dinner before starting. But none of us could
have eaten
there. We took up our luggage, and started off over the rising ground
toward
Katahdin. The event had cast a damper on us. Despite Raed’s sarcastic
remark, I
could not help thinking, with Wash, that it was “a rather ghastly
omen.” Katahdin,
looming
grandly to the north-east, invited us on. For about two miles from the
West
Branch the land is open, having at some not long past time been burned
over.
There were many grassy patches. Blueberry-bushes abound, and, at this
season,
were loaded with their tempting fruit. There were also plenty of
choke-cherries, pear-plums, and wild red cherries. This open belt is
succeeded
by a growth of young evergreens. Here, under Cluey’s pilotage, we were
so
fortunate as to strike the path spotted by Mr. Bowditch on his tour to
the
mountains a number of years ago. It was lucky that we did so: it
facilitates
the course very much. Parties ascending the mountain will do well to
look for
this path. A tramp of
three
hours and a half from the river took us to the foot of the “Great
Slide,” a
distance of about six miles. The “Great
Slide,”
as it is called, is one of those bare faces of the mountain where all
the trees
have been swept off by an avalanche of bowlders and earth from the top.
The
angle of elevation is, we thought, not far from forty degrees. It can
only be
climbed by a determined effort. The whole incline is strewn, from top
to
bottom, with bowlders often a dozen feet square., It had, at first
sight, a
very disheartening, perilous aspect, coming as near our ideal of
“Jacob’s
ladder” as we ever expect to realize in this world. It was now
towards
four o’clock. As we had not yet eaten dinner, and were in poor plight
to
attempt the slide, Raed decided to camp here for the night. We
accordingly
built our fire among the low firs which grew along the foot of the
slide, just
at the point where the mass of loose rocks and broken wood marks the
base of
the steep mountain-wall. Wade set the aneroid, and reported the height
at
twenty-three hundred and seventy feet above the sea. We had forgotten
to take
the elevation at the West Branch* on starting in the morning, as had
been
intended. After finding the body, it had slipped our minds. The height
of the foot of the
slide, above the West Branch,
will therefore have to be left to some future and more careful
explorers. Cluey set
up a
lug-pole on two crotched stakes over the fire, and proceeded to boil
meat, make
a pudding, and get up a “dish of coffee.” It was rather nice to sit
resting
ourselves while this was going on. We were
already up
high enough to look off over the forest below. The view, even from the
foot of
the slide, is fine. Though six miles distant, the West Branch can be distinctly seen threading its silvery path through the woods down from the foot of Lake Chesuncook, the lower end of which could be discerned past the side of the ridge. During the evening we heard the cry of martens from the rocks above us, and for a long time sat watching the stars of the slowly-wheeling Dipper, four of which were visible over the dark brow of the slide: the other three were hidden behind it. Just as we were going to sleep, a hare gave us something of a fright. I think the little creature must have been pursued; for it came leaping up to our very feet, making a great stamping for so small an animal. We had lain down; but, hearing the tramping, jumped hastily up; at which the timid creature went leaping off. “Nothin’
but a fatty,” said
Cluey. Ding-bat
gave
chase; and, for several minutes, the rocks resounded to his best vocal
efforts:
but he soon came back lolling. “Wal, ye
didn’t
ketch ‘im, did ye?” cried Cluey derisively. “Haf ter buy a rater an’
latherin’
box, an’ shave a while, afore ye ken ketch Yankee animuls.” Wash
complained of
bad dreams; but the rest of us slept well all night. One ought to sleep
well in
this clear mountain-air. By seven
o’clock we
had breakfast out of the way, and were ready for a start. “Now, thar
air two
ways o’ gittin’ up on ter this ‘ere mountin,” explained Cluey. “One is
ter
climb right straight up this slide ‘ere: t’other is ter foller along
the
‘spotted line’ ter the foot of the wast spur, an’ then climb up thar
whar
‘tain’t ser steep. Ye ken take yer chice uv um.” “Which is
farthest?” asked Wash. “Oh! it’s
furderest
out round the spur. It’s ‘bout two mile too, or two an’ a harf, out ter
the
foot of the spur. Then frum thar ter the top it’s nigh on ter five
mile. But,
ter go right straight up this ‘ere slide, ‘tain’t more’n three an’ a
half or
four mile ter the top.” “Do you
think it is
safe going up the slide?” Raed asked. “Wal,”
replied the
old man, “that’s all the argermunt thar is fer goin’ out round by the
spur.
It’s pasky steep, ye see; an’ now an’ then a big rock comes tumblin’
down,
‘spashally in the spring o’ the year, when the frost is comin’ out. The
stuns
is apt ter guv way under yer foot, lyin’ luse as they du. Haf ter be
keerful
whar yer a-steppin’. Ye ken see jest ‘ow it looks, all raggid and luse
like. Still
I ain’t afeerd ter resk it; an’ I shudn’t s’pose thar need ter be any
great
dairnger fer active yonkers like you. I shudn’t advise ter try it in
the
spring o’ the year, p’r’aps; but, ser late as ‘tis now. I don’t think
thar’ll
be any diffikilty. Yer ken du as yer ‘a’ mind to, though.” “What do
you hay,
fellows?” asked Raed, turning to us. We all
thought best
to try the slide. “Up the
slide it
is, then,” said Raed. “Forward,
all!”
cried Wade. Cluey
threw the
meal-bag over his shoulder, and, climbing up over the rick of stones
and logs,
began the ascent. The rest of us followed, each with his portion of the
luggage. It did not take long to start the sweat. Climbing up an
incline of
loose stones and broken shrubs as steep as a medium staircase with a
heavy
bucket in one’s hand is very much like work. On went Cluey, never once
looking
behind him. He had secured a start of thirty or forty yards; and kept
it, de
spite our efforts to close up. These thirty or forty yards amounted to
some
twenty or thirty feet dead height over our heads. He climbed very
gingerly,
however; and was continually dropping down advice to us. “Now luk
out fer
this ‘ere ticklish un;” indicating, with hand or foot, the rock he
deemed
treacherous. And, a
moment
later, — “Tuk keer
o’ that
ar rotten log.” “Mind ‘ow
ye step
inter this luse dirt: ‘twon’t ‘old yer foot.” “Steer
cl’ar o’
this ‘ere hole ‘tween these ‘ere raggid stuns: bad place fer yer laigs
in
thar.” And so on,
upward,
for four or five hundred feet. We were all thoroughly out of breath
when the
old man finally faced about on the upper side of a huge bowlder of red
granite,
and removed his fur cap to wipe his brow. We toiled up beside him, and,
panting, turned to look down. The view from where we stood would be apt
to make
a nervous person feel skittish. It had a right-up and-down seeming,
that made
me grow giddy for a moment. Our footing on the steep side appeared
altogether
too slight for safety against the clutch of gravitation: this, at
least, was
the first impression given. “Gracious!”
exclaimed Wash, glancing apprehensively down, and then up. “This is
rather
scarey, isn’t it? Makes a fellow feel as if he was going to topple over
and
roll down.” “Not a
very nice
place to roll, either,” remarked Wade, fixing his feet a little more
firmly. “Might
illustrate
it,” said Raed, going a little way along the side, and giving a loose
stone a.
push with his foot. The fragment, which was about the size of one of
the
buckets, rolled off, and then went tearing downward, throwing up jets
of dust,
and setting other stones in motion, till it plunged among the
evergreens at the
base of the slide. These four
or five
hundred feet had greatly enlarged and heightened the prospect.
Moosehead Lake,
thirty miles to the south-west, was already beginning to come into view
over
the wooded hills. Chesuncook and little Ripogenus had come up much
nearer. “Wal,”
said Cluey
(he always prefixed all important remarks with this preliminary
“Wal”), “wot
say fer anuther hitch-up?” “Go
ahead!” replied
Wash. “I would
suggest
that we climb a little more moderately,” said Raed. “You gave us some
thing of
a sweat this first time.” “Did I,
though?”
said Cluey very innocently, and as if such a thing had been farthest
from his
intention. “Wal, slower then.” Cluey
entertained
but a very slight opinion of city-bred muscle. It always gave him a
sort of
mischievous delight to see Raed and Wash pant well in an attempt to
keep up
with his sturdy trudge. During
this next
“hitch” we got up four or five hundred feet higher, the view opening
grandly.
As the hills and mountain-ridges to the southward and southwestward
sank, the
ponds and streams in the valley rose to sight, from our second
resting-place
Wade counted seventeen ponds and lakes. There was very little haze; and
the sun
shone brightly. It was not uncomfortably warm, however: on the
contrary, the
air seemed rather cool; a fact we attributed to the increasing
elevation. Just
as we were starting for a third hitch, Wash had the ill luck to upset
the sugar-bucket.
The paper containing the precious “white sand” fell out, and, striking
on a
rock, burst. Before we could jump to the rescue, nearly half the
contents ran
out, and sifted down among the stones. It is always aggravating to lose
sugar.
One can view the spilling of salt, or even meal, with tolerable
calmness; but
to see sugar spilled upsets all a fellow’s forbearance. We all jawed
him. The slide
is no
steeper toward the top than at the foot, if so steep. The climbing,
too, is
less difficult. There are fewer loose stones and bowlders. The
foothold is
less uncertain. We accomplished the last seven hundred feet with much
less
fatigue and perspiration than we had feared at our first halt. Nor did
we feel
as giddy on looking down from any of the upper stages as at the first
downward
glance, when not more than five hundred feet from the base: so much
depends on
getting used to a thing. But the
incline
proved longer, considerably, than it had looked to be from the bottom.
The line
of ledges at the top had receded as we climbed toward them. It was not
till
half-past ten that Cluey gave the welcome assurance that “one hitch
more’d
fetch it.” A pretty long hitch it turned out; but we made it, and, at
five
minutes before eleven, sprang upon the brink of the slide, which here
drops
down from a sort of table-land that from this place stretches off
toward the
high peak of the Katahdin ridge. We threw ourselves on the mossy rocks,
and lay
for a long time, resting. The view
is
wonderfully grand. Of itself it is sufficient to reward all the hard
toil of
the ascent. The whole country is at your feet. All the hills and
mountains have
sunk into a mighty plain, stretching off into distant haze. It looks as
if one
might fall into the West Branch by merely jumping over the crest. The
valley
wears a soft bluish tint. The forest seems like a grass-plat. Moosehead
has
come up much nearer. Far beyond it there are mountain-peaks, which, I
presume,
are those of the boundary range between Maine and Canada. We sat for
over an
hour — one of the most pleasurable of my life — drinking in the great
scene;
and even then it seemed too bad of Raed to sing out, — “Well,
fellows,
what say for dinner?” Though,
come to
think of it, we were hungry as bears. “Where’s
the wood
to come from?” inquired Wade, looking back over the table-land. This
seemed likely
to be a pretty difficult question. On the
elevated
plateau none but the hardiest plants were to be seen. The trailing
alpine bear
berry here and there clothed the bare ledges, and mossy lichens filled
the
hollows. Farther down, toward the crest of the west spur, there were
small
patches of cowberry-shrubs. Cluey had told us that he knew of a spring
at some
distance across the table-land. Unpacking one of the buckets, he now
started off
to find it. Raed began to construct an arch of stones wherein to set
the
kettle; while Wash and Wade and myself went off down the plateau to
gather
cowberry-twigs. They were none of them larger than a pipe-stem. Rather
small
fuel, certainly! We broke off and pulled up each an armful, and got
back just
as Cluey, with about half a bucket of water, was coming in from the
opposite
direction. “‘Twas all
the
thing’d give,” said
the old man.
“I squeezed it dry. But I’ve cl’ar’d it out. Gass it’ll guv some more
by
night.” What there
was of
the water was rather rily. It was tolerably cool, however. After
considerable
“fussin’,” owing to the scantiness of the fuel, a pudding was made, and
coffee
boiled. Not a very sumptuous repast: it needed only the relish of a
good
appetite, though, — a relish we always had with us while on the
Katahdin ridge.
After
dinner, Wade
set the aneroid several times at different points along the plateau.
The
height, as nearly as we could average it, was forty-seven hundred and
thirty feet.
The known height of the mountain, as calculated by the State survey, is
fifty-three hundred and eighty-five feet. This would make our position
at the
top of the slide six hundred and fifty-five feet below the main peak. I
may as
well add here, however, that, on ascending the peak (which we did next
day),
our aneroid persisted in giving the altitude at fifty-four hundred and
ninety
feet, — about that. So that, making a corresponding deduction, our
camp near
the top of the slide was only about forty-six hundred and thirty feet
above the
sea. As we were
very
tired, we decided to camp here for the night. The sun shone brightly
all the
afternoon; but at no time was it uncomfortably warm, and, by five
o’clock, had
grown so chilly, that we were glad to “try races” to keep from
shivering. This
was the 8th of August, it must be borne in mind. On the 9th of
September we
saw, from Lake Chesuncook, these same peaks white with snow. There was
nothing
of incident in our night spent on this hoary, lichen-clad ledge: yet I
recall
it more distinctly than any other of our sojourn in this wild region;
it seemed
so high up, — so far above the world we had thus far dwelt in. We were,
therefore, not a little astonished, on waking in the morning, to find
our
selves enveloped in what appeared to be a thick fog. The blankets which
we had
snuggled around us were dampened as by a dense mist. It soon passed
off,
however, seeming to drift away over the great valley to the southward.
I think
it was a cloud. When the sun came up, the whole plateau glittered as if
drenched with dew. The mist passed in time to allow us to see the sun
rise. The
point on the horizon above which the sun’s disk first made its
appearance could
hardly have been less than seventy-five miles distant. We were
surprised to see
how far off this caused the sun to seem at its rising, when viewed
beyond so
great an extent of country. Building a
fire —
enough to cook a breakfast — out of damp cowberry-bushes was decidedly
a work
of time, and patience to boot. I regret to record that Cluey did not
retain the
latter virtue (vartew
as he would
have said) in excess on this occasion. Wade remarked, that, if Cluey
had been a
Catholic, his priest would have had a big job on hand after this
cowberry-fire.
It was
nine o’clock
before we were ready to start on. An hour and a half brought us to the
summit
of the main peak. The prospect from the highest rocks at this point was
grander, I suppose, in that it was loftier, than from any other. Still,
to my
mind, it lacked the beauty and clearness of the view from the brink of
the
slide. Taken together, the prospect from Katahdin is superior to that
from
Mount Washington, both in beauty and general impressiveness. There are
no
neighboring mountains of any thing like equal size. The landscape is
consequently less roughened and wild than that to be seen from the
Tip-top
House. A view so grand and sombre as this can hardly fail to attract
tourists
as soon as a road to the mountain shall be built. I wonder that some
enterprising Yankee with plenty of money has not guessed that a hotel on the
West Branch, with a road leading
up thither, would prove a “paying investment.” Seen from
the top
of the main peak, the mountain-ridge seems to form the arc of a
circle, with
its concave side fronting to the south-east nearly. The west and
north-west
sides are not nearly so steep. Descending
from the
highest point, we made our way laboriously along the ridge toward the
north-east. For a considerable distance this ridge was very narrow, and
difficult to follow. At one place we were glad to get on our hands and
knees,
and creep very cautiously and humbly, lest a single misstep should send
us
headlong over the precipices on either side. About half a mile beyond
we came
to an almost vertical descent of seventy or eighty feet, which Cluey
called the
“chimney.” We had to lower each other from rock to rock, and use the
greatest
caution lest our provision-buckets should be upset or let fall over the
ledges.
Cluey told us that the vast hollow embraced by the southern concave
side is
locally known as the “basin.” Some idea of the scenery from the ridge
at this
point may be gained, per haps, when I state that the side of this
basin falls
off three thousand feet over precipices far too steep to be descended
in safety.
The sight is awe- inspiring. We instinctively shrank back from the
brink of so
vast a gulf. I do not believe that it can be matched east of the Sierra
Nevadas. There is nothing about Mount Washington worthy to be compared
with it
in point of abrupt depth and grandeur. Directly under the place where
we were
standing at the foot of the “chimney,” there is a small pond in the
basin,
called Chimney Pond. It seemed possible to throw a stone into this pond
three
thousand feet below. We threw several; but, owing to the great depth,
it was
impossible to tell where they struck. Far down under the shadow of the
ridge we
espied a snow-drift, which, Cluey informed us, remained there all the
year
round. It struck us as a rather curious fact, that while the granite along the “slides” and lower parts of the mountain is of a light-gray color, some times even approaching whiteness, that at the summit and along the top of the ridge should be red. Yet thus curiously has Nature crested the head of Katahdin. The savages believed that the rocks took this red and flinty hue beneath the feet of Pomoola, in his restless pacings to and fro along the mountain’s sullen brow. A little farther on, the descent is less precipitous; and, at a depth of four or five hundred feet, small black spruces appear along the shelf of the ledges. It was now
after
two o’clock. We decided to descend far enough to procure fuel, and
encamp for
the remainder of the day. But even here it required caution to make our
way
down to where the evergreens began. Spruce,
however, is
a great improvement on cowberry for culinary purposes: so, at least,
Cluey
found it. He contrived to cook beef, make “pudding,” and boil coffee:
so that,
by seven p.m., we dined in savage profusion. I should hardly dare to
call to mind,
much less inform the public, how many gill dipperfuls of very strong,
very
sweet coffee we drank apiece that evening. We apologized for each other
by
continually calling to mind that it takes four
gills to make a pint. Our bed
was on a
little shelf along the top of a ledge; and I recollect that we had some
doubts
as to the safety of going to sleep, lest we should roll off, and bring
up on
the rocks some hundred feet below. But, taking the precaution to put
Wash in
the middle (he being “the man what gets up in his sleep”), we concluded
to risk
it; and slept very soundly. Climbing over ledges all day will make
anybody
sleep. Many persons — especially those who kick about on their spring
mattresses — are apt to think that they never could close their eyes or
get a
wink of sleep if obliged to camp out and lie on a “shake-down” of
boughs. All a
mistake. Get them up into this exhilarating mountain-air, and race them
about
all day over the rough rocks and ridges, and they will sleep like tops,
with
nothing save a blanket on a mossy ledge; nor will they feel the
stiffer, nor
much the older, for it. _______________________
*A full
account of
this melancholy incident was published in the Bangor papers shortly
after. * Eight
hundred and
fifty feet. |