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CHAPTER IX
THE RIO
VIRGEN AND THE U-IN-KA-RET MOUNTAINS 1 WE have
determined to continue the exploration of the cañons of the Colorado. Our last
trip was so hurried, owing to the loss of rations, and the scientific
instruments were so badly injured, that we are not satisfied with the results
obtained, so we shall once more attempt to pass through the cañons in boats,
devoting two or three years to the trip. It will not be possible to carry in the boats
sufficient supplies for the party for that length of time, so it is thought
best to establish dépôts of supplies, at intervals of one or two hundred miles
along the river. Between
Gunnison’s Crossing and the foot of the Grand Cañon, we know of only two points
where the river can be reached — one at the Crossing of the Fathers, and
another a few miles below, at the moth of the Paria, on a rote which has been
explored by Jacob Hamblin, a Mormon missionary. These two points are so near
each other that only one of them can be selected for the purpose above
mentioned, and others must be fond. We have been unable, up to this time, to
obtain, either from Indians or white men, any information which will give us a
clue to any other trail to the river. At the
head waters of the Sevier, we are on the summit of a great water-shed. The
Sevier itself flows north, and then westward, into the lake of the same name.
The Rio Virgen, heading near by, flows to the southwest, into the Colorado,
sixty or seventy miles below the Grand Cañon. The Kanab, also heading near by,
runs directly south, into the very heart of the Grand Cañon. The Paria, also
heading near by, runs a little south of east, and enters the river at the head
of Marble Cañon. To the northeast from this point, other streams, which run
into the Colorado, have their sources, until, forty or fifty miles away, we
reach the southern branches of the Dirty Devil River, the moth of which stream
is but a short distance below the junction Of the Grand and Green. The
Pons-a’-gunt Plateau terminates in a point, which is bonded by a line of
beautiful pink cliffs. At the foot of this plateau, on the west, the Rio Virgen
and Sevier Rivers are dovetailed together, as their minute upper branches
interlock. The upper surface of the plateau inclines to the northeast, so that
its waters roll off into the Sevier; but from the foot of the cliffs, quite
around the sharp angle of the plateau, for a dozen miles, we find numerous
springs, whose waters unite to form the Kanab. But a little farther to the
northeast the springs gather into streams that feed the Paria. Here, by
the upper springs of the Kanab, we make a camp, and from this point we are to
radiate on a series of trips, southwest, south, and east. Jacob
Hamblin, who has been a missionary among the Indians for more than twenty
years, has collected a number of Kai’-vav-its, with Chu-ar’-ru-um-peak,
their chief, and they are all camped with us. They assure us that we cannot
reach the river; that we cannot make or way into the depths of the cañon, but
promise to show us the springs and water pockets, which are very scarce in all
this region, and to give us all the information in their power. Here we fit
up a pack train, for or bedding and instruments, and supplies are to be carried
on the backs of mules and ponies. September 5, 1870.
— The several members of the party are engaged in general preparation for or
trip down to the Grand Cañon. Taking
with me a white man and an Indian, I start on a climb to the summit of the
Pouns-á-gunt Plateau, which rises above us on the east. Our way, for a mile or
more, is over a great peat bog, that trembles under or feet, and now and then a
mule sinks through the broken turf, and we are compelled to pull it out with
ropes. Passing the
bog, or way is up a gulch, at the foot of the Pink Cliffs, which form the
escarpment, or wall, of the great plateau. Soon we leave the gulch, and climb a
long ridge, which winds around to the right toward the summit of the great
table. Two hours’
riding, climbing, and clambering brings us near the top. We look below, and see
clods drifting up from the south, and rolling tumultuously toward the foot of
the cliffs, beneath us. Soon, all the country below is covered with a sea of
vapor — a billowy, raging, noiseless sea — and as the vapory flood still rolls
up from the south, great waves dash against the foot of the cliffs and roll
back; another tide comes in, is hurled back, and another and another, lashing
the cliffs until the fog rises to the summit, and covers us all. There is a
heavy pine and fir forest above, beset with dead and fallen timber, and we make
our way through the undergrowth to the east. It rains!
The clouds discharge their moisture in torrents, and we make for ourselves
shelters of boughs, which are soon abandoned, and we stand shivering by a great
fire of pine logs and boughs, which we have kindled, but which the pelting
storm half extinguishes. One, two,
three, four hours of the storm, and at last it partially abates. During
this time our animals, which we have turned loose, have sought for themselves
shelter under the trees, and two of them have wandered away beyond our sight. I
go out to follow their tracks, and come near to the brink of a ledge of rocks,
which, in the fog and mist, I suppose to be a little ridge, and I look for a
way by which I can go down. Standing just here, there is a rift made in the fog
below, by some current or blast of wind, which reveals an almost bottomless
abyss. I look from the brink of a great precipice of more than two thousand
feet; but, through the mist, the forms below are half obscured, and all
reckoning of distance is lost, and it seems ten thousand feet, ten miles — any
distance the imagination desires to make it. Catching
our animals, we return to the camp. We find that the little streams which come
down from the plateau are greatly swollen, but at camp they have had no rain.
The clouds which drifted up from the south, striking against the plateau, were
lifted up into colder regions, and discharged their moisture on the summit, and
against the sides of the plateau, but there was no rain in the valley below. September 9. — We
make a fair start this morning, from the beautiful meadow at the head of the
Kanab, and cross the line of little hills at the headwaters of the Rio Virgen,
and pass, to the south, a pretty valley, and at ten o’clock come to the brink
of a great geographic bench — a line of cliffs. Behind us are cool springs,
green meadows, and forest clad slopes; below us, stretching to the south, until
the world is lost in blue haze, is a painted desert; not a desert plain, but a
desert of rocks, cut by deep gorges, and relieved by towering cliffs and
pinnacled rocks — naked rocks, brilliant in the sunlight.
By a
difficult trail, we make our way down the basaltic ledge, through which
innumerable streams here gather into a little river, running in a deep cañon.
The river runs close to the foot of the cliffs, on the right hand side, and the
trail passes along to the right. At noon we rest, and our animals feed on
luxuriant grass. Again we
start, and make slow progress along a stony way. At night we camp under an
overarching cliff. September 10. —
Here the river turns to the west, and our way, properly, is to the south; but
we wish to explore the Rio Virgen as far as possible. The Indians tell us that
the cañon narrows gradually, a few miles below, and that it will be impossible
to take our animals much farther down the river. Early in the morning, I go
down to examine the head of this narrow part. After breakfast, having concluded
to explore the cañon for a few miles on foot, we arrange that the main party
shall climb the cliff, and go around to a point eighteen or twenty miles below,
where, the Indians say, the animals can be taken down by the river, and three
of us set out on foot. The Indian
name of the cañon is Pa-rú-nu-weap, or Roaring Water Cañon. Between the
little river and the foot of the walls, is a dense growth of willows, vines,
and wild rose bushes, and, with great difficulty, we make or way through this
tangled mass. It is not a wide stream — only twenty or thirty feet across in
most places; shallow, but very swift. After spending some hours in breaking our
way through the mass of vegetation, and climbing rocks here and there, it is determined
to wade along the stream. In some places this is an easy task, but here and
there we come to deep holes, where we have to wade to our arm pits. Soon we
come to places so narrow that the river fills the entire channel, and we wade
perforce. In many places the bottom is a quicksand, into which we sink, and it
is with great difficulty that we make progress. In some places the holes are so
deep that we have to swim, and our little bundles of blankets and rations are
fixed to a raft made of driftwood, and pushed before us. Now and then there is
a little flood-plain, on which we can walk, and we cross and recross the
stream, and wade along the channel where the water is so swift as to almost
carry us off our feet, and we are in danger every moment of being swept down,
until night comes on. We estimate we have traveled eight miles to-day. We find
a little patch of flood-plain, on which there is a huge pile of driftwood and a
clump of box-elders, and near by a great stream, which bursts from the rocks —
a mammoth spring. We soon
have a huge fire, our clothes are spread to dry, we make a cup of coffee, take
out our bread and cheese and dried beef, and enjoy a hearty supper. The cañon
here is about twelve hundred feet deep. It has been very narrow and winding all
the way down to this point. September 11. —
Wading again this morning; sinking in the quicksand, swimming the deep waters,
and making slow and painful progress where the waters are swift, and the bed of
the stream rocky.
The cañon is
steadily becoming deeper, and, in many places, very narrow — only twenty or
thirty feet wide below, and in some places no wider, and even narrower, for
hundreds of feet overhead. There are places where the river, in sweeping by
curves, has cut far under the rocks, but still preserving its narrow channel,
so that there is an overhanging wall on one side and an inclined wall on the
other. In places a few hundred feet above, it becomes vertical again, and thus
the view of the sky is entirely closed. Everywhere this deep passage is dark
and gloomy, and resounds with the noise of rapid waters. At noon we
are in a cañon 2,500 feet deep, and we come to a fall where the walls are
broken down, and huge rocks beset the channel, on which we obtain a foothold to
reach a level two hundred feet below. Here the cañon is again wider, and we
find a flood-plain, along which we can walk, now on this, and now on that side
of the stream. Gradually the cañon widens; steep rapids, cascades, and
cataracts are found along the river, but we wade only when it is necessary to
cross. We make progress with very great labor, having to climb over piles of
broken rocks. Late in
the afternoon, we come to a little clearing in the valley, and see other signs
of civilization, and by sundown arrive at the Mormon town of Schunesburg; and
here we meet the train, and feast on melons and grapes. September 12. — Our
course, for the last two days, through Pa-rú-nu-weap Cañon, was directly
to the west. Another stream comes down from the north, and unites just here at
Schunesburg with the main branch of the Rio Virgen. We determine to spend a day
in the exploration of this stream. The Indians call the cañon, through which it
runs, Mu-koon’-tu-weap, or Straight Cañon. Entering this, we have to wade up
stream; often the water fills the entire channel, and, although we travel many
miles, we find no flood-plain, talus, or broken piles of rock at the foot of
the cliff. The walls have smooth, plain faces, and are everywhere very regular
and vertical for a thousand feet or more, where they seem to break back in
shelving slopes to higher altitudes; and everywhere, as we go along, we find
springs bursting out at the foot of the walls, and, passing these, the river
above becomes steadily smaller; the great body of water, which runs below,
bursts out from beneath this great bed of red sandstone; as we go up the cañon,
it comes to be but a creek, and then a brook. On the western wall of the cañon
stand some buttes, towers, and high pinnacled rocks. Going up the cañon, we
gain glimpses of them, here and there. Last summer, after our trip through the
cañons of the Colorado, on our way from the mouth of the Virgen to Salt Lake
City, these were seen as conspicuous landmarks, from a distance, away to the
southwest, of sixty or seventy miles. These tower rocks are known as the
Temples of the Virgen. Having
explored this cañon nearly to its head, we return to Schunesburg, arriving
quite late at night. Sitting in
camp this evening, Chu-ar’-ru-um-peak, the chief of the Kai’-vav-its,
who is one of our party, tells us there is a tradition among the tribes of this
country, that many years ago a great light was seen somewhere in this region by
the Pa-rú-sha-pats, who lived to the southwest, and that they supposed
it to be a signal, kindled to warn them of the approach of the Navajos,
who live beyond the Colorado River to the east. Then other signal fires were
kindled on the Pine Valley Mountain, Santa Clara Mountains, and U-in-ka-ret
Mountains, so that all the tribes of Northern Arizona, Southern Utah, Southern
Nevada, and Southern California were warned of the approaching danger; but when
the Pa-ru’-sha-pats came nearer, they discovered that it was a fire on
one of the great Temples; and then they knew that the fire was not kindled by
men, for no human being could scale the rocks. The Tu’-mu-ur-ru-gwait’-si-gaip,
or Rock Rovers, had kindled a fire to deceive the people. In the Indian
language this is called Tu’-mu-ur-ru-gwait’-si-gaip Tu-weap’, or Rock
Rovers’ Land. September 13. — We
start very early this morning, for we have a long day’s travel before us. Our
way is across the Rio Virgen to the south. Coming to the bank of the stream
here, we find a strange metamorphosis. The streams we have seen above, running
in narrow channels, leaping and plunging over the rocks, raging and roaring in
their course, are here united, and spread in a thin sheet several hundred yards
wide, and only a few inches deep, but running over a bed of quicksand. Crossing
the stream, our trail leads up a narrow cañon, not very deep, and then among
the hills of golden, red, and purple shales and marls. Climbing out of the
valley of the Rio Virgen, we pass through a forest of dwarf cedars, and come
out at the foot of the Vermilion Cliffs. All day we follow this Indian trail toward
the east, and at night camp at a great spring, known to the Indians as Yellow
Rock Spring, but to the Mormons as Pipe Spring; and near by there is a cabin in
which some Mormon herders find shelter. Pipe Spring is a point just across the
Utah line in Arizona, and we suppose it to be about sixty miles from the river.
Here the Mormons design to build a fort another year, as an outpost for
protection against the Indians. Here we
discharge a number of the Indians, but take two with us for the purpose of showing
us the springs, for they are very scarce, very small, and not easily found.
Half a dozen are not known in a district of country large enough to make as
many good sized counties in Illinois. There are no running streams, and these
springs and waterpockets — that is, holes in the rocks, which hold water from
shower to shower — are our only dependence for this element. Starting,
we leave behind a long line of cliffs, many hundred feet high, composed of
orange and vermilion sandstones. I have named them “Vermilion Cliffs.” When we
are out a few miles, I look back, and see the morning sun shining in splendor
on their painted faces; the salient angles are on fire, and the retreating
angles are buried in shade, and I gaze on them until my vision dreams, and the
cliffs appear a long bank of purple clouds, piled from the horizon high into
the heavens. At noon we pass along a ledge of chocolate cliffs, and, taking out
our sandwiches, we make a dinner as we ride along. Yesterday,
our Indians discussed for hours the route which we should take. There is one
way, farther by ten or twelve miles, with sure water; another shorter, where
water is fond sometimes; their conclusion was that water would be found now;
and this is the way we go, yet all day long we are anxious about it. To be out
two days, with only the water that can be carried in two small kegs, is to have
our animals suffer greatly. At five o’clock we come to the spot, and there is a
huge water-pocket, containing several barrels. What a relief! Here we camp for
the night. September 15. — Up
at day-break, for it is a long day’s march to the next water. They say we must
“run very hard” to reach it by dark. Our course
is to the south. From Pipe Spring we can see a mountain, and I recognize it as
the one seen last summer from a cliff overlooking the Grand Cañon; and I wish
to reach the river just behind the mountain. There are Indians living in the
group, of which it is the highest, whom I wish to visit on the way. These
mountains are of volcanic origin, and we soon come to ground that is covered
with fragments of lava. The way becomes very difficult. We have to cross deep
ravines, the heads of cañons that run into the Grand Cañon. It is curious now
to observe the knowledge of our Indians. There is not a trail but what they
know; every gulch and every rock seems familiar. I have prided myself on being
able to grasp and retain in my mind the topography of a country; but these
Indians put me to shame. My knowledge is only general, embracing the more
important features of a region that remains as a map engraved on my mind; but
theirs is particular. They know every rock and every ledge, every gulch and
cañon, and just where to wind among these to find a pass; and their knowledge
is unerring. They cannot describe a country to yo, but they can tell you all
the particulars of a route. I have but
one pony for the two, and they were to ride “turn about”; but Chu-ar’-ru-um-peak,
the chief, rides, and Shuts, the one-eyed, bare-legged, merry-faced
pigmy, walks, and points the way with a slender cane; then leaps and bounds by
the shortest way, and sits down on a rock and waits demurely until we come,
always meeting us with a jest, his face a rich mine of sunny smiles. At dusk we
reach the water-pocket. It is in a deep gorge, on the flank of this great
mountain. During the rainy season the water rolls down the mountain side,
plunging over precipices, and excavates a deep basin in the solid rock below.
This basin, hidden from the sun, holds water the year round. September 16. — This
morning, while the men are packing the animals, I climb a little mountain near
camp, to obtain a view of the country. It is a huge pile of volcanic scoria,
loose and light as cinders from a forge, which give way under my feet, and I
climb with great labor; but reaching the summit, and looking to the southeast,
I see once more the labyrinth of deep gorges that flank the Grand Cañon; in the
multitude, I cannot determine whether it be in view or not. The memories of
grand and awful months spent in their deep, gloomy solitudes come up, and I
live that life over again for a time. I
supposed, before starting, that I could get a good view of the great mountain
from this point; but it is like climbing a chair to look at a castle. I wish to
discover some way by which it can be ascended, as it is my intention to go to
the summit before I return to the settlements. There is a cliff near the
summit, and I do not see the way yet. Now down I go, sliding on the cinders,
making them rattle and clang. The
Indians say we are to have a short ride to-day, and that we will reach an
Indian village, situated by a good spring. Our way is across the spurs that put
out from the great mountain, as we pass it to the left. Up and
down we go, across deep ravines, and the fragments of lava clank under our
horses’ feet; now among cedars, now among pines, and now across mountain side
glades. At one o’clock we descend into a lovely valley, with a carpet of waving
grass; sometimes there is a little water in the upper end of it, and, during
some seasons, the Indians we wish to find are encamped here. Chu‑ar’-ru-um-peak
rides on to find them, and to say we are friends, otherwise they would run
away, or propose to fight us, should we come without notice. Soon we see Chu-ar’-ru-um-peak
riding at full speed, and hear him shouting at the top of his voice, and away
in the distance are two Indians, scampering up the mountain side. One stops;
the other still goes on, and is soon lost to view. We ride up, and find Chu-ar’-ru-um-peak
talking with the one who had stopped. It is one of the ladies resident in these
mountain glades; she is evidently paying taxes, Godiva like. She tells us that
her people are at the spring; that it is only two hours’ ride; that her good
master has gone on to tell them we are coming, and that she is harvesting
seeds. We sit
down and eat our luncheon, and share our biscuit with the woman of the
mountains; then on we go, over a divide between two rounded peaks. I send the
party on to the village, and climb the peak on the left, riding my horse to the
upper limit of trees, and then tugging up afoot. From this point I can see the
Grand Cañon, and know where I am. I can see the Indian village, too, in a
grassy valley, embosomed in the mountains, the smoke curling up from their fires;
my men are turning out their horses, and a group of natives stand around. Down
the mountain I go, and reach camp at sunset. After
supper we put some cedar boughs on the fire, the dusky villagers sit around,
and we have a smoke and a talk. I explain the object of my visit, and assure
them of my friendly intentions. Then I ask them about a way down into the
cañon. They tell me that years ago, a way was discovered by which parties could
go down, but that no one has attempted it for a long time; that it is a very
difficult and very dangerous undertaking to reach the “Big Water.” Then I
inquire about the Shi’-vwits, a tribe that lives about the springs on
the mountain sides and cañon cliffs to the southwest. They say that their
village is now about thirty miles away, and promise to send a messenger for
them tomorrow morning. Having
finished our business for the evening, I ask if there is a tu-gwi’-na-gunt
in camp: that is, if there is any one present who is skilled in relating their
mythology. Chu-ar’-ru-um-peak says To-mor’-ro-un-tikai, the chief
of these Indians, is a very noted man for his skill in this matter; but they
both object, by saying that the season for tu-gwi’nai has not yet
arrived. But I had anticipated this, and soon some members of the party come
with pipes and tobacco, a large kettle of coffee, and a tray of biscuits, and,
after sundry ceremonies of pipe lighting and smoking, we all feast, and, warmed
up by this, to them, unusual good living, it is decided that the night shall be
spent in relating mythology. I ask To-mor’-ro-un-ti-kai to tell us about
the So’-kus Wai’-un-ats, or One Two Boys, and to this he agrees.
The long
winter evenings of an Indian camp are usually devoted to the relation of
mythological stories, which purport to give a history of an ancient race of
animal gods. The stories are usually told by some old man, assisted by others
of the party, who take secondary parts, while the members of the tribe gather
about, and make comments, or receive impressions from the morals which are
enforced by the story teller, or, more properly, story tellers; for the
exercise partakes somewhat of the nature of a theatrical performance. THE
SO’-KUS WAI’-UN-ATS. Tum-pwi-nai’-ro-gwi-nump, he who
had a stone shirt, killed Si-kor’, the Crane, and stole his wife, and
seeing that she had a child, and thinking it would be an encumbrance to them on
their travels, he ordered her to kill it. But the mother, loving the babe, hid
it under her dress, and carried it away to its grandmother. And Stone Shirt carried
his captured bride to his own land. In a few
years the child grew to be a fine lad, under the care of his grandmother, and
was her companion wherever she went. One day
they were digging flag roots, on the margin of the river, and putting them in a
heap on the bank. When they had been at work a little while, the boy perceived
that the roots came up with greater ease than was customary, and he asked the
old woman the cause of this, but she did not know; and, as they continued their
work, still the reeds came up with less effort, at which their wonder
increased, until the grandmother said, “Surely, some strange thing is about to
transpire.” Then the boy went to the heap, where they had been placing the
roots, and found that some one had taken them away, and he ran back,
exclaiming, “Grandmother, did you take the roots away?” And she answered, “No,
my child; perhaps some ghost has taken them off; let us dig no more; come
away.” But the boy was not satisfied, as he greatly desired to know what all
this meant; so he searched about for a time, and at length found a man sitting
under a tree, whom he taunted with being a thief, and threw mud and stones at
him, until he broke the stranger’s leg, who answered not the boy, nor resented
the injuries he received, but remained silent and sorrowful; and, when his leg
was broken, he tied it up in sticks, and bathed it in the river, and sat down
again under the tree, and beckoned the boy to approach. When the lad came near,
the stranger told him he had something of great importance to reveal. “My son,”
said he, “did that old woman ever tell you about your father and mother?” “No,”
answered the boy; “I have never heard of them.” “My son, do you see these bones
scattered on the ground? Whose bones are these?” “How should I know?” answered
the boy. “It may be that some elk or deer has been killed here.” “No,” said the
old man. “Perhaps they are the bones of a bear;” but the old man shook his
head. So the boy mentioned many other animals, but the stranger still shook his
head, and finally said, “These are the bones of your father; Stone Shirt killed
him, and left him to rot here on the ground, like a wolf.” And the boy was
filled with indignation against the slayer of his father. Then the stranger
asked, “Is your mother in yonder lodge?” and the boy replied, “No.” “Does your
mother live on the banks of this river?” and the boy answered, “I don’t know my
mother; I have never seen her; she is dead.” “My son,” replied the stranger,
“Stone Shirt, who killed your father, stole your mother, and took her away to
the shore of a distant lake, and there she is his wife to-day.” And the boy
wept bitterly, and while the tears filled his eyes so that he could not see,
the stranger disappeared. Then the boy was filled with wonder at what he had
seen and heard, and malice grew in his heart against his father’s enemy. He
returned to the old woman, and said, “Grandmother, why have you lied to me
about my father and mother?” and she answered not, for she knew that a ghost
had told all to the boy. And the boy fell upon the ground weeping and sobbing,
until he fell into a deep sleep, when strange things were told him. His
slumber continued three days and three nights, and when he awoke, he said to
his grandmother: “I am going away to enlist all nations in my fight;” and
straightway he departed. (Here the
boy’s travels are related with many circumstances concerning the way he was
received by the people, all given in a series of conversations, very lengthy,
so they will be omitted.) Finally he
returned in advance of the people whom he had enlisted, bringing with him Shin-au’-av,
the wolf, and To-go’-av, the rattlesnake. When the three had eaten food,
the boy said to the old woman: “Grandmother, cut me in two!” But she demurred,
saying she did not wish to kill one whom she loved so dearly. “Cut me in two!”
demanded the boy; and he gave her a stone ax, which he had brought from a
distant country, and with a manner of great authority he again commanded her to
cut him in two. So she stood before him, and severed him in twain, and fled in
terror. And lo! each part took the form of an entire man, and the one beautiful
boy appeared as two, and they were so much alike no one could tell them apart. When the
people or natives, whom the boy had enlisted, came pouring into the camp, Shin-aú-av
and To-go’-av were engaged in telling them of the wonderful thing that
had happened to the boy, and that now there were two; and they all held it to
be an augury of a successful expedition to the land of Stone Shirt. And they started
on their journey. Now the
boy had been told in the dream of his three days’ slumber, of a magical cup,
and he had brought it home with him from his journey among the nations, and the
So’kus Wai’-un-ats carried it between them, filled with water. Shin-aú-av
walked on their right, and To-go’-av on their left, and the nations
followed in the order in which they had been enlisted. There was a vast number
of them, so that when they were stretched out in line it was one day’s journey
from the front to the rear of the column. When they
had journeyed two days, and were far out on the desert, all the people
thirsted, for they found no water, and they fell down upon the sand, groaning,
and murmuring that they had been deceived, and they cursed the One-Two. But the So’-kus
Wai’-un-ats had been told in the wonderful dream of the suffering which
would be endured, and that the water which they carried in the cup was only to
be used in dire necessity; and the brothers said to each other: “Now the time
has come for us to drink the water.” And when one had quaffed of the magical
bowl, he found it still full; and he gave it to the other to drink, and still
it was full; and the One-Two gave it to the people, and one after another did
they all drink, and still the cup was full to the brim. But Shin-au’-av
was dead, and all the people mourned, for he was a great man.
The brothers
held the cup over him, and sprinkled him with water, when he arose and said:
“Why do you disturb me? I did have a vision of mountain brooks and meadows, of
cane where honey-dew was plenty.” They gave him the cup, and he drank also; but
when he had finished there was none left. Refreshed and rejoicing they
proceeded on their journey.
The next
day, being without food, they were hungry, and all were about to perish; and
again they murmured at the brothers, and cursed them. But the So’-kus
Wai’-un-ats saw in the distance an antelope, standing on an eminence in the
plain, in bold relief against the sky; and Shin-aú-av knew it was the
wonderful antelope with many eyes, which Stone Shirt kept for his watchman; and
he proposed to go and kill it, but To-go’-av demurred, and said: “It
were better that I should go, for he will see you, and run away.” But the So’-kus
Wai’-un-ats told Shin-aú-av to go; and he started in a direction
away to the left of where the antelope was standing, that he might make a long
detour about some hills, and come upon him from the other side. To-go’-av
went a little way from camp, and called to the brothers: “Do you see me?” and they
answered they did not. “Hunt for me;” and while they were hunting for him, the
rattlesnake said: “I can see you; you are doing” — so and so, telling them what
they were doing; but they could not find him. Then the
rattlesnake came forth, declaring: “Now you know I can see others, and that I
cannot be seen when I so desire. Shin-au’-av cannot kill that antelope,
for he has many eyes, and is the wonderful watchman of Stone Shirt; but I can
kill him, for I can go where he is, and he cannot see me.” So the brothers were
convinced, and permitted him to go; and he went and killed the antelope. When Shin-au’-av
saw it fall, he was very angry, for he was extremely proud of his fame as a
hunter, and anxious to have the honor of killing this famous antelope, and he
ran up with the intention of killing To‑go’-av; but when he drew near,
and saw the antelope was fat, and would make a rich feast for the people, his
anger was appeased. “What matters it,” said he, “who kills the game, when we
can all eat it?” So all the
people were fed in abundance, and they proceeded on their journey. The next
day the people again suffered for water, and the magical cup was empty; but the
So’-kus Wai’-un-ats, having been told in their dream what to do,
transformed themselves into doves, and flew away to a lake, on the margin of
which was the home of Stone Shirt. Coming
near to the shore, they saw two maidens bathing in the water; and the birds
stood and looked, for the maidens were very beautiful. Then they flew into some
bushes, near by, to have a nearer view, and were caught in a snare which the
girls had placed for intrusive birds. The beautiful maidens came up, and,
taking the birds out of the snare, admired them very much, for they had never
seen such birds before. They carried them to their father, Stone Shirt, who
said: “My daughters, I very much fear these are spies from my enemies, for such
birds do not live in our land;” and he was about to throw them into the fire,
when the maidens besought him, with tears, that he would not destroy their
beautiful birds; but he yielded to their entreaties with much misgiving. Then
they took the birds to the shore of the lake, and set them free. When the
birds were at liberty once more, they flew around among the bushes, until they
found the magical cup which they had lost, and taking it up, they carried it
out into the middle of the lake and settled down upon the water, and the
maidens supposed they were drowned. The birds,
when they had filled their cup, rose again, and went back to the people in the
desert, where they arrived just at the right time to save them with the cup of
water, from which each drank; and yet it was full until the last was satisfied,
and then not a drop remained. The
brothers reported that they had seen Stone Shirt and his daughters. The next
day they came near to the home of the enemy, and the brothers, in proper
person, went out to reconnoitre. Seeing a woman gleaning seeds, they drew near,
and knew it was their mother, whom Stone Shirt had stolen from Si-kor’,
the crane. They told her they were her sons, but she denied it, and said she
had never had but one son; but the boys related to her their history, with the
origin of the two from one, and she was convinced. She tried to dissuade them
from making war upon Stone Shirt, and told them that no arrow could possibly
penetrate his armor, and that he was a great warrior, and had no other delight
than in killing his enemies, and that his daughters also were furnished with
magical bows and arrows, which they could shoot so fast that the arrows would
fill the air like a cloud, and that it was not necessary for them to take aim,
for their missiles went where they willed; they thought the arrows to
the hearts of their enemies; and thus the maidens could kill the whole of the people
before a common arrow could be shot by a common person. But the boys told her
what the spirit had said in the long dream, and had promised that Stone Shirt
should be killed. They told her to go down to the lake at dawn, so as not to be
endangered by the battle. During the
night, the So’-kus Wai’-un-ats transformed themselves into mice, and
proceeded to the home of Stone Shirt, and found the magical bows and arrows
that belonged to the maidens, and with their sharp teeth they cut the sinew on
the backs of the bows, and nibbled the bow strings, so that they were
worthless; while To-go’-av hid himself under a rock near by. When dawn
came into the sky, Tum-pwinai’-ro-gwi-nump, the Stone Shirt man, arose
and walked out of his tent, exulting in his strength and security, and sat down
upon the rock under which To-go’-av was hiding; and he, seeing his
opportunity, sunk his fangs into the flesh of the hero. Stone Shirt sprang high
into the air, and called to his daughters that they were betrayed, and that the
enemy was near; and they seized their magical bows, and their quivers filled
with magical arrows, and hurried to his defense. At the same time, all the
nations who were surrounding the camp rushed down to battle. But the beautiful
maidens, finding their weapons were destroyed, waved back their enemies, as if
they would parley; and, standing for a few moments over the body of their slain
father, sang the death song, and danced the death dance, whirling in giddy
circles about the dead hero, and wailing with despair, until they sank down and
expired. The
conquerors buried the maidens by the shores of the lake; but Tum-pwi-nai’-ro-gwinump
was left to rot, and his bones to bleach on the sands, as he had left Si-kor’.
There is
this proverb among the Utes: “Do not murmur when you suffer in doing what the
spirits have commanded, for a cup of water is provided.” And another: “What
matters it who kills the game, when we can all eat of it.” It is long
after midnight when the performance is ended. The story itself was interesting,
though I had heard it many times before; but never, perhaps, under
circumstances more effective. Stretched beneath tall, sombre pines; a great
camp fire, and by the fire, men, old, wrinkled, and ugly; deformed, blear eyed,
wry faced women; lithe, stately young men; pretty but simpering maidens, naked
children, all intently listening, or laughing and talking at times, their
strange faces and dusky forms lit up with the glare of the pine-knot fire. All
the circumstances conspired to make it a scene strange and weird. One old man,
the sorcerer or medicine-man of the tribe, peculiarly impressed me. Now and
then he would interrupt the play for the purpose of correcting the speakers, or
impressing the moral of the story with a strange dignity and impressiveness
that seemed to pass to the very border of the ludicrous; yet at no time did it
make me smile. The story is
finished, but there is yet time for an hour or two’s sleep. I take Chu-ar’-ru-um-peak
to one side for a talk. The three men who left us in the cañon last year found
their way up the lateral gorge, by which they went into the Shi’-vwits
Mountains, lying west of us, where they met with the Indians, and camped with
them one or two nights, and were finally killed. I am anxious to learn the circumstances,
and as the people of the tribe who committed the deed live but a little way
from and are intimate with these people, I ask Chu-ar’-ru-um-peak to
make inquiry for me. Then we go to bed. September 17. —
Early this morning the Indians come up to our camp. They have concluded to send
out a young man after the Shi’-vwits. The runner fixes his moccasins,
puts some food in a sack and water in a little wicker work jug, straps them on
his back, and starts at a good round pace. We have
concluded to go down the cañon, hoping to meet the Shi’-vwits on our
return. Soon we are ready to start, leaving the camp and pack animals in charge
of the two Indians who came with us. As we move out, our new guide comes up, a
blear eyed, weazen faced, quiet old man, with his bow and arrows in one hand,
and a small cane in the other. These Indians all carry canes with a crooked
handle, they say to kill rattlesnakes, and to pull rabbits from their holes.
The valley is high up in the mountain, and we descend from it, by a rocky,
precipitous trail, down, down, down for two long, weary hours, leading our
ponies and stumbling over the rocks. At last we are at the foot of the
mountain, standing on a little knoll, from which we can look into a cañon
below. Into this we descend, and then we follow it for miles, clambering down
and still down. Often we cross beds of lava, that have been poured into the
cañon by lateral channels, and these angular fragments of basalt make the way
very rough for the animals. About two
o’clock the guide halts us with his wand, and springing over the rocks he is
lost in a gulch. In a few minutes he returns, and tells us there is a little
water below in a pocket. It is vile and stinking, and our ponies refuse to
drink it. We pass on, still ever descending. A mile or two from the water basin
we come to a precipice, more than a thousand feet to the bottom. There is a
cañon running at a greater depth, and at right angles to this, into which this
enters by the precipice; and this second cañon is a lateral one to the greater
one, in the bottom of which we are to find the river. Searching about, we find
a way by which we can descend along the shelves, and steps, and piles of broken
rocks. We start
leading our ponies; a wall upon our left; unknown depths on or right. At places
our way is along shelves so narrow, or so sloping, that I ache with fear lest a
pony should make a misstep, and knock a man over the cliffs with him. Now and
then we start the loose rocks under or feet, and over the cliffs they go,
thundering down, down, as the echoes roll through distant cañons. At last we
pass along a level shelf for some distance, then we turn to the right, and
zigzag down a steep slope to the bottom. Now we pass along this lower cañon,
for two or three miles, to where it terminates in the Grand Cañon, as the other
ended in this, only the river is 1,800 feet below us, and it seems, at this
distance, to be but a creek. Our withered guide, the human pickle, seats
himself on a rock, and seems wonderfully amused at our discomfiture, for we can
see no way by which to descend to the river. After some minutes, he quietly
rises, and, beckoning us to follow, he points out a narrow sloping shelf on the
right, and this is to be our way. It leads along the cliff, for half a mile, to
a wider bench beyond, which, he says, is broken down on the other side in a
great slide, and there we can get to the river. So we start out on the shelf;
it is so steep we can hardly stand on it, and to fall, or slip, is to go —
don’t look and see! It is soon
manifest that we cannot get the ponies along the ledge. The storms have washed
it down, since our guide was here last, years ago. One of the ponies has gone
so far that we cannot turn him back until we find a wider place, but at last we
get him off. With part of the men, I take the horses back to the place where
there are a few bushes growing, and turn them loose; in the meantime the other
men are looking for some way by which we can get down to the river. When I
return, one, Captain Bishop, has found a way, and gone down. We pack bread,
coffee, sugar, and two or three blankets among us, and set out. It is now
nearly dark, and we cannot find the way by which the captain went, and an hour
is spent in fruitless search. Two of the men go away around an amphitheater,
more than a fourth of a mile, and start down a broken chasm that faces us, who
are behind. These walls, that are vertical, or nearly so, are often cut by
chasms, where the showers run down, and the top of these chasms will be back a
distance from the face of the wall, and the bed of the chasm will slope down,
with here and there a fall. At other places, huge rocks have fallen, and block
the way. Down such a one the two men start. There is a curious plant growing
out from the crevices of the rock. A dozen stems will start from one root, and
grow to the length of eight or ten feet, and not throw out a branch or twig,
but these stems are thickly covered with leaves. Now and then the two men come
to a bunch of dead stems, and make a fire to mark for us their way and
progress. In the
meantime we find such a gulch, and start down, but soon come to the “jumping
off place,” where we can throw a stone, and hear it faintly striking, away
below. We fear that we shall have to stay here, clinging to the rocks until
daylight. Our little Indian gathers a few dry stems, ties them into a bundle,
lights one end, and holds it up. The others do the same, and with these torches
we find a way out of trouble. Helping each other, holding torches for each
other, one clinging to another’s hand until we can get footing, then supporting
the other on his shoulders, so we make our passage into the depths of the
cañon. And now Captain Bishop has kindled a huge fire of driftwood, on the bank
of the river. This, and the fires in the gulch opposite, and our own flaming
torches, light up little patches, that make more manifest the awful darkness
below. Still, on we go, for an hour or two, and at last we see Captain Bishop
coming up the gulch, with a huge torch-light on his shoulders. He looks like a
fiend, waving brands and lighting the fires of hell, and the men in the
opposite gulch are imps, lighting delusive fires in inaccessible crevices, over
yawning chasms; our own little Indian is surely the king of wizards, so I
think, as I stop for a few moments on a rock to rest. At last we meet Captain
Bishop, with his flaming torch, and, as he has learned the way, he soon pilots
us to the side of the great Colorado. We are hungry and athirst, almost to
starvation. Here we lie down on the rocks and drink, just a mouthful or so, as
we dare; then we make a cup of coffee, and, spreading our blankets on a sand
beach, the roaring Colorado lulls us to sleep. September 18. — We
are in the Grand Cañon, by the side of the Colorado, more than six thousand
feet below or camp on the mountain side, which is eighteen miles away; but the
miles of horizontal distance represent but a small part of the day’s labor
before us. It is the mile of altitude we must gain that makes it a herculean
task. We are up early; a little bread and coffee, and we look about us. Our
conclusion is, that we can make this a dépôt of supplies, should it be
necessary; that we can pack our rations to the point where we left our animals
last night, and that we can employ Indians to bring them down to the water’s
edge. On a broad
shelf, we find the ruins of an old stone house, the walls of which are broken
down, and we can see where the ancient people who lived here — a race more
highly civilized than the present — had made a garden, and used a great spring,
that comes out of the rocks, for irrigation. On some rocks near by we discover
some curious etchings. Still, searching about, we find an obscure trail up the
cañon wall, marked, here and there, by steps which have been built in the loose
rock, elsewhere hewn stairways, and we find a much easier way to go up than
that by which we came down in the darkness last night. Coming to the top of the
wall, we catch our horses, and start. Up the cañon our jaded ponies toil, and
we reach the second cliff; up this we go, by easy stages, leading the animals.
Now we reach the stinking water-pocket; our ponies have had no water for thirty
hours, and are eager even for this foul fluid. We carefully strain a kettleful
for ourselves, then divide what is left between them — two or three gallons for
each; but this does not satisfy them, and they rage around, refusing to eat the
scanty grass. We boil our kettle of water, and skim it; straining, boiling, and
skimming makes it a little better, for it was full of loathsome, wriggling
larvæ, with huge black heads. But plenty of coffee takes away the bad smell,
and so modifies the taste that most of us can drink, though our little Indian
seems to prefer the original mixture. We reach camp about sunset, and are glad
to rest. September 19. — We
are tired and sore, and must rest a day with or Indian neighbors. During the
inclement season they live in shelters, made of boughs, or bark of the cedar,
which they strip off in long shreds. In this climate, most of the year is dry
and warm, and during such time they do not care for shelter. Clearing a small,
circular space of ground, they bank it around with brush and sand, and wallow
in it during the day, and huddle together in a heap at night, men, women, and
children; buckskin, rags, and sand. They wear very little clothing, not needing
much in this lovely climate. Altogether,
these Indians are more nearly in their primitive condition than any others on
the continent with whom I am acquainted. They have
never received anything from the Government, and are too poor to tempt the
trader, and their country is so nearly inaccessible that the white man never
visits them. The sunny mountain side is covered with wild fruits, nuts, and
native grains, upon which they subsist. The oose, the fruit of the
yucca, or Spanish bayonet, is rich, and not unlike the paw-paw of the valley of
the Ohio. They eat it raw, and also roast it in the ashes. They gather the
fruits of a cactus plant, which is rich and luscious, and eat them as grapes,
or from them express the juice, making the dry pulp into cakes, and saving them
for winter; the wine they drink about their camp fires, until the midnight is
merry with the revelries. They
gather the seeds of many plants, as sunflowers, goldenrods, and grasses. For
this purpose, they have large conical baskets, which hold two or more bushels.
The women carry them on their backs, suspended from their foreheads by broad
straps, and with a smaller one in the left hand, and a willow woven fan in the
right, they walk among the grasses, and sweep the seed into the smaller basket,
which is emptied, now and then, into the larger, until it is full of seeds and
chaff; then they winnow out the chaff and roast the seeds. They roast these
curiously; they put the seeds, with a quantity of red hot coals, into a willow
tray, and, by rapidly and dexterously shaking and tossing them, keep the coals
aglow, and the seeds and tray from burning. As if by magic, so skilled are the
crones in this work, they roll the seeds to one side of the tray, as they are
roasted, and the coals to the other. Then they grind the seeds into a fine
flour, and make it into cakes and mush. It is a
merry sight, sometimes, to see the women grinding at the mill. For a mill, they
use a large flat rock, lying on the ground, and another small cylindrical one
in their hands. They sit prone on the ground, hold the large flat rock between
the feet and legs, then fill their laps with seeds, making a hopper to the mill
with their dusky legs, and grind by pushing the seeds across the larger rock,
where it drops into a tray. I have seen a group of women grinding together,
keeping time to a chant, or gossiping and chatting, while the younger lassies
would jest and chatter, and make the pine woods merry with their laughter.
Mothers carry their babes curiously in baskets. They make a wicker board, by
plaiting willows, and sew a buckskin cloth to either edge, and this is fulled
in the middle, so as to form a sack, closed at the bottom. At the top, they
make a wicker shade, like “my grandmother’s sun bonnet,” and, wrapping the
little one in a wild cat robe, place it in the basket, and this they carry on
their backs, strapped over the forehead, and the little brown midgets are ever
peering over their mother’s shoulders. In camp, they stand the basket against
the trunk of a tree, or hang it to a limb. There is
little game in the country, yet they get a mountain sheep now and then, or a
deer, with their arrows, for they are not yet supplied with guns. They get many
rabbits, sometimes with arrows, sometimes with nets. They make a net of twine,
made of the fibers of a native flax. Sometimes this is made a hundred yards in
length, and is placed in a half circular position, with wings of sage brush.
They have a circle hunt, and drive great numbers of rabbits into the snare,
where they are shot with arrows. Most of their bows are made of cedar, but the
best are made of the horns of mountain sheep. These are taken, soaked in water,
until quite soft, cut into long thin strips, and glued together, and are then
quite elastic. During the autumn, grasshoppers are very abundant. When cold
weather sets in, these insects are numbed, and can be gathered by the bushel.
At such a time, they dig a hole in the sand, heat stones in a fire near by, put
some in the bottom of the hole, put on a layer of grasshoppers, then a layer of
hot stones, and continue this, until they put bushels on to roast. There they
are left until cool, when they are taken out, thoroughly dried, and ground into
meal. Grasshopper gruel, or grasshopper cake, is a great treat. Their lore
consists in a mass of traditions, or mythology. It is very difficult to induce
them to tell it to white men; but the old Spanish priests, in the days of the
conquest of New Mexico, have spread among the Indians of this country many
Bible stories, which the Indians are usually willing to tell. It is not always
easy to recognize them, the Indian mind being a strange receptacle for such
stories, and they are apt to sprout new limbs. Maybe much of their added
quaintness is due to the way in which they were told by the “fathers.” But in a
confidential way, while you are alone, or when you are admitted to their camp
fire on a winter night, you will hear the stories of their mythology. I believe
that the greatest mark of friendship, or confidence, that an Indian can give,
is to tell you his religion. After one has so talked with me, I should ever
trust him; and I feel on very good terms with these Indians, since our
experience of the other night. A knowledge
of the watering places, and of the trails and passes, is considered of great
importance, and is necessary, to give standing to a chief. This
evening, the Shi’-vwits, for whom we have sent, come in, and, after
supper, we hold a long council. A blazing fire is built, and around this we sit
— the Indians living here, the Shi’-vwits, Jacob Hamblin, and myself.
This man, Hamblin, speaks their language well, and has a great influence over
all the Indians in the region round about. He is a silent, reserved man, and
when he speaks, it is in a slow, quiet way, that inspires great awe. His talk
is so low that they must listen attentively to hear, and they sit around him in
deathlike silence. When he finishes a measured sentence, the chief repeats it,
and they all give a solemn grunt. But, first, I fill my pipe, light it, and
take a few whiffs, then pass it to Hamblin; he smokes, and gives it to the man
next, and so it goes around. When it has passed the chief, he takes out his own
pipe, fills, and lights it, and passes it around after mine. I can smoke my own
pipe in turn, but, when the Indian pipe comes around, I am nonplussed. It has a
large stem, which has, at some time, been broken, and now there is a buckskin
rag wound around it, and tied with sinew, so that the end of the stem is a huge
mouthful, and looks like the burying ground of old dead spittle, venerable for
a century. To gain time, I refill it, then engage in very earnest conversation,
and, all unawares, I pass it to my neighbor unlighted. I tell the
Indians that I wish to spend some months in their country during the coming
year, and that I would like them to treat me as a friend. I do not wish to
trade; do not want their lands. Heretofore I have found it very difficult to
make the natives understand my object, but the gravity of the Mormon missionary
helps me much. I tell them that all the great and good white men are anxious to
know very many things; that they spend much time in learning, and that the
greatest man is he who knows the most. They want to know all about the
mountains and the valleys, the rivers and the cañons, the beasts, and birds,
and snakes. Then I tell them of many Indian tribes, and where they live; of the
European nations; of the Chinese, of Africans, and all the strange things about
them that come to my mind. I tell them of the ocean, of great rivers and high
mountains, of strange beasts and birds. At last I tell them I wish to learn
about their cañons and mountains, and about themselves, to tell other men at
home; and that I want to take pictures of everything, and show them to my
friends. All this occupied much time, and the matter and manner made a deep
impression. Then their
chief replies: “Your talk is good, and we believe what you say. We believe in
Jacob, and look upon you as a father. When you are hungry, you may have our
game. You may gather our sweet fruits. We will give you food when you come to
our land. We will show you the springs, and you may drink; the water is good.
We will be friends, and when you come we will be glad. We will tell the Indians
who live on the other side of the great river that we have seen Ka’-pu-rats,
and he is the Indians’ friend. We will tell them he is Jacob’s friend. We are
very poor. Look at our women and children; they are naked. We have no horses;
we climb the rocks, and our feet are sore. We live among rocks, and they yield
little food and many thorns. When the cold moons come, our children are hungry.
We have not much to give; you must not think us mean. You are wise; we have
heard you tell strange things. We are ignorant. Last year we killed three white
men. Bad men said they were our enemies. They told great lies. We thought them
true. We were mad; it made us big fools. We are very sorry. Do not think of
them, it is done; let us be friends. We are ignorant — like little children in
understanding compared with you. When we do wrong, do not get mad, and be like
children too. “When
white men kill our people, we kill them. Then they kill more of us. It is not
good. We hear that the white men are a great number. When they stop killing us,
there will be no Indian left to bury the dead. We love our country; we know not
other lands. We hear that other lands are better; we do not know. The pines
sing, and we are glad. Our children play in the warm sand; we hear them sing,
and are glad. The seeds ripen, and we have to eat, and we are glad. We do not
want their good lands; we want our rocks, and the great mountains where our
fathers lived. We are very poor; we are very ignorant; but we are very honest. You
have horses, and many things. You are very wise; you have a good heart. We will
be friends. Nothing more have I to say.” Ka’-pu-rats is the
name by which I am known among the Utes and Shoshones, meaning “arm off.” There
was much more repetition than I have given, and much emphasis. After this a few
presents were given, we shook hands, and the council broke up. Mr.
Hamblin fell into conversation with one of the men, and held him until the
others had left, and then learned more of the particulars of the death of the
three men. They came upon the Indian village almost starved and exhausted with
fatigue. They were supplied with food, and put on their way to the settlements.
Shortly after they had left, an Indian from the east of the Colorado arrived at
their village, and told them about a number of miners having killed a squaw in
drunken brawl, and no doubt these were the men. No person had ever come down
the cañon; that was impossible; they were trying to hide their guilt. In this
way he worked them into a great rage. They followed, surrounded the men in
ambush, and filled them full of arrows. 2
That night I slept in peace, although these
murderers of my men, and their friends, the U-in-ka-rets, were sleeping
not five hundred yards away. While we were gone to the cañon, the pack-train
and supplies, enough to make an Indian rich beyond his wildest dreams, were all
left in their charge, and were all safe; not even a lump of sugar was pilfered
by the children. September 20. — For several days we have
been discussing the relative merits of several names for these mountains. The
Indians call them U-in-ka-rets, the region of pines, and we adopt the
name. The great mountain we call Mount Trumbull, in honor of the Senator.
To-day the train starts back to the cañon water-pocket, while Captain Bishop
and I climb Mont Trumbull. On our way we pass the point that was the last
opening to the volcano. It seems
but a few years since the last flood of fire swept the valley. Between two
rough, conical hills it poured, and ran down the valley to the foot of a
mountain standing almost at the lower end, then parted, and ran on either side
of the mountain. This last overflow is very plainly marked; there is soil, with
trees and grass, to the very edge of it, on a more ancient bed. The flood was
everywhere on its border from ten to twenty feet in height, terminating
abruptly, and looking like a wall from below. On cooling, it shattered into
fragments, but these are still in place, and you can see the outlines of
streams and waves. So little time has elapsed since it ran down, that the
elements have not weathered a soil, and there is scarcely any vegetation on it,
but here and there a lichen is found. And yet, so long ago was it poured from
the depths, that where ashes and cinders have collected in a few places, some
huge cedars have grown. Near the crater the frozen waves of black basalt are
rent with deep fissures, transverse to the direction of the flow. Then we ride
through a cedar forest, up a long ascent, until we come to cliffs of columnar
basalt. Here we tie our horses, and prepare for a climb among the columns.
Through crevices we work, till at last we are on the mountain, a thousand acres
of pine land spread out before us, gently rising to the other edge. There are
two peaks on the mountain. We walked two miles to the foot of the one looking
to be the highest, then a long, hard climb to its summit. And here, oh, what a
view is before us! A vision of glory! Peaks of lava all around below us. The
Vermilion Cliffs to the north, with their splendor of colors; the Pine Valley
Mountain to the northwest, clothed in mellow, perspective haze; unnamed
mountains to the southwest, towering over cañons, bottomless to my peering
gaze, like chasms to the nadir hell; and away beyond, the San Francisco
Mountains, lifting their black heads into the heavens. We find our way down the
mountain, reaching the trail made by the pack-train just at dusk. Two days
more, and we are at Pipe Spring; one day, and we are at Kanab. Eight miles
above the town is a cañon, on either side of which is a group of lakes. By the
side of one of these I sit, the crystal waters at my feet, at which I may drink
at will. THE END
_______________ 1 Here the
story is continued in September of the following year, 1870. (Ed.) 2 The
murder of the two Howlands and Dunn was committed at what is now known as
Ambush Waterpocket, south of Mount Dellenbaugh. (Ed.) |