Web
and Book design,
Copyright, Kellscraft Studio 1999-2019 (Return to Web Text-ures) |
(HOME)
|
CHAPTER III RAMBLES IN OLD NEW YORK Old New York lies buried
beneath the tidal wave of its own material prosperity. The modern city,
busy
with the present and its plans for gain, not only adds to itself, but
incessantly rends itself in pieces. Caring little for the visible
reminders of
a storied past, it replaces and rebuilds with an unsparing hand. Nor is
this
violence confined to the invasion of domesticity by trade; it goes on
without
ceasing in the oldest trading quarters, and a white-haired veteran
whose
business life has been passed in and about the Rialto of Manhattan is
authority
for the statement that within his memory Wall Street has been thrice
entirely
rebuilt, with the exception of about half a dozen houses. Thus, the
person who
seeks to retrace in brick and mortar the New York of earlier days has
small
reward for his labor. Not here but across the sea to Holland must he go
if he
would find houses like those in which the stolid, sturdy burghers of
New
Amsterdam made their homes. He will search, too, almost in vain for
structures
belonging to the Revolutionary era, and for the homes of the city's
makers
during later periods of its history. And yet his quest, if followed
with
industry and a fair measure of patience, will be interesting and
instructive in
the highest degree. If such a quest begins
where New York began — at the Battery, one finds just south of the
present
Bowling Green the site of Fort Amsterdam, erected about 1626 to shelter
the
Dutch adventurers who had come to trade with the Indians. Under the
protection
of its guns, during the same year, was founded the town of New
Amsterdam, hand
in hand with which went the Dutch dynasty which lasted till 1664, when
England
seized the prize she had long secretly coveted. The tangle of streets
below the
Bowling Green still bears witness to the random, haphazard fashion in
which the
town came into being. Each settler built his house where he pleased,
and made
lanes and streets according to the dictates of his own fancy. One of
the two
important thoroughfares of the town,
following the line of the present Stone and Pearl Streets, — the latter
then
the water front, — led from the fort to the Brooklyn ferry, at about
the
present Peck Slip. The other, on the line of the present Broadway, led
from the
fort, past farms and gardens, as far as the present Park Row; and along
the
line of that thoroughfare, and of Chatham Street and of the Bowery,
went on to
the island's northern end. When in August, 1664, an English
fleet captured New Amsterdam, and renamed it in honor of the Duke of
York, the
western side of the town, from the Bowling Green northward, was a
wilderness of
orchards and gardens and green fields, while on the eastern side the
farthest
outlying dwelling was Wolfert Webber's roadside tavern near the present
Chatham
Square. There were then only a dozen buildings north of the present
Wall
Street, and the business interests of the town centred in the block
between
Bridge and Stone Streets, upon which stood the stone houses of the
Dutch West India
Company. On the line of Broad Street, then called the Heere Graft, ran
a canal
with a roadway on each side, and here dwelt much of the quality of that
early
day. However, under both Dutch
and English the Battery was the favorite promenade, and till the middle
decades
of the closing century some of the wealthiest and most socially
distinguished
people of the town lived in the lower part of Greenwich Street, in
State
Street, and around the Bowling Green. And well they might do so, for
living
there was living on a park with a grand park view. Indeed, the whilom
prospect
from the windows and balconies of such houses as the one yet standing
at No. 7
State Street across the greensward and through the elms of the Battery
included
Castle Garden and the seawall, the bay with its islands, and the Long
Island
and Jersey shores. The Bay of New York, now made tame and commonplace
by what
is called prosperity, was then the pride of those who dwelt about it;
and
travelled strangers who had seen the Bay of Naples and the Golden Horn
did not
stint their praises of the beauty surrounded by which New York sat like
a
Western Venice upon the waters. Superb was the view from
the Battery in the old days, and glorious are the wraiths who still
haunt its
paves and shaded places. Talleyrand, self-exiled from France, an
hundred-odd
years ago often paced slowly along where thousands now move, who,
perhaps,
never heard of him. After Talleyrand came Louis Philippe and Jerome
Bonaparte,
both of whom knew and admired the Battery. Lafayette walked its
sea-wall and
gazed out on the bay, and here sauntered that audacious traitor,
Benedict
Arnold, ruined by an ungovernable temper and a Tory wife. Here, in the
same
strenuous days, came Clinton and Cornwallis, and here through the vista
of half
a century we witness the New World's loud-voiced welcome to Kossuth.
Nor is the
fact to be forgotten that in ancient Castle Garden, transformed from a
fort
into an opera house, Jenny Lind one autumn night in 1850 began the
triumphal
progress which made the name of that richly dowered queen of song a
household
word in every nook and corner of America. Trending due east from
State Street, the northern boundary of the Battery, and cutting it at
right
angles are two narrow passageways, which in these days would be looked
upon
almost as alleys. But one of them is the beginning of the once
important
thoroughfare, Pearl Street, known first as Great Queen Street, which,
starting
here in a line with Broadway, and within a few yards of its head,
curves round
towards the East River, and, expanding first at Hanover and then at
Franklin
Square, enters Broadway next above Duane Street, and directly opposite
where
the gray walls of the New York Hospital were seen a generation ago,
removed
from the rush and roar of the great thoroughfare by an avenue through
grass
that, we are told, seemed ever green and under elms that overtopped the
highest
house. Before Water, Front, and
South Streets were created by the filling in of the East River, Pearl
Street
faced the water front, and along its reaches a century ago all the
shipping of
the port was harbored. Here, too, were the yards of the ship-builders,
and the
shops and warehouses of the merchants. Hanover Square was long the
shopping
centre of fashion, and till within a few years there stood in Nassau
and upper
Pearl Streets residences of a stately elegance which would now be
sought in
vain below Central Park. All of these have since been swept away, and
the only
visible reminder of the Pearl Street of other days is ancient
Fraunces's
Tavern, still standing and in use on the corner of that thoroughfare
and Broad
Street. The site of this house once belonged to the De Lancey family,
and in
1750 Oliver De Lancey seems to have had his residence either here or in
the
house adjoining, but in 1754 a tavern is found here, under the sign of
the
Queen's Head, and eight years later the property passed by deed into
the
ownership of Samuel Fraunces, a noted publican, who speedily made it
the most
popular hostelry in the growing town. When the Revolution came
Fraunces proved a stanch friend of the patriot cause, and played a
worthy, if
modest, part in the stirring events of the time. In 1776 he went out
with the
patriots, but appears later to have returned to the city, perhaps by
British
permission under arrangement with Washington, and to have resided there
during
at least part of the British occupation, as his generous advances to
the
American prisoners at that time confined in the city prompted a vote of
thanks
and a handsome grant of money from Congress. It was in the Long Room of
Fraunces's Tavern that, at the close of the military movements
attending the
taking possession of the city on the evacuation by the British,
November 25,
1783, Governor Clinton gave a dinner to the commander-in-chief and
other
general officers of the patriot forces, but the event by reason of
which this
famous old inn will always claim a place in our history occurred nine
days
later, when, on December 4, 1783, in this same Long Room, Washington
took
touching and solemn farewell of his generals before departing upon his
journey
to Annapolis, where he surrendered his commission to Congress. Mine
host
Fraunces was not forgotten in the bestowal of rewards which followed
the
success of the patriot cause and the founding of the republic. When, in 1789, Washington
returned to New York to be inaugurated President of the United States
and took
up his residence here, he made Fraunces steward of his household, a
post for
which the latter was admirably fitted, and which he filled to the
satisfaction
of all concerned; and so his humble name has a place in our annals side
by side
with that of his great patron. Fraunces's Tavern was
probably built in the summer or autumn of 1753. It was originally three
stories
high, a lofty building for those early days, and built of brick brought
from
Golden's yard in Amsterdam. It is still a public-house, and has never
been
otherwise since it was first opened for that purpose. In 1853 a fire
visited
the building, but did no serious damage. In the repairs made at that
time the
Dutch roof surmounting the house was torn down and replaced by two
additional
flat-topped stories. The lower floor of the house retained its original
shape
until 1890, when the old walls were torn down and replaced by a
pretentious
stone front, and the old tap-room, scene of so many merry gatherings in
the
vanished days, was converted into a modern barroom. Fortunately,
however, these
modern improvements stopped short of the Long Room on the second floor.
This is
an apartment forty-three feet in length and twenty in width. Its walls
are hung
with a picture of the old tavern, a faded and time-worn copy of the
Declaration
of Independence, a portrait of Washington, and other articles eloquent
of the
history and associations of the place. Save for the paper on the walls
and the
laying of a new floor, the Long Room has not been changed since
Washington
stood there. The antique wall-cupboard holds its long-accustomed place,
and
just across the narrow hallway is the old kitchen, unchanged save by
the
introduction of a modern range. On the third floor are several small
rooms
built for the guests of the tavern, rarely used at present, but which,
except
as to furniture, stand just as they did a hundred years ago. Jumel Mansion,
Washington
Heights, New York In the upper part of New
York are two other houses associated with the Revolutionary period and
its
heroes, — the Jumel mansion and Hamilton Grange. No house in America
has a more
varied and interesting history than the first of these, which stands on
Washington Heights. Frederick Philipse, descendant of a noble Bohemian
family
and second lord of Philipse Manor on the Hudson, had a charming
daughter, Mary
by name, who, tradition has it, declined the hand of George Washington,
then a
colonel of militia and counted one of the rising men of the province.
She
became a little later the wife of Roger Morris, aide to Braddock and
Washington's companion in arms in the disastrous fight in which the
British general
lost his life. They were married in January, 1758, and the bride's
dowry in her
own right was a large domain, plate, jewelry, and money, while she
received as
a wedding present from her brother, third and last lord of the manor,
the house
on Washington Heights. Here Colonel Morris and his wife lived in
princely style
until the Revolution. Then the husband espoused the royalist cause, and
with
his family was compelled to seek safety in flight. The Morris mansion was
seized by the Continental troops, and in the summer of 1776 Washington
made his
head-quarters in the deserted home of his former successful rival for a
fair
woman's hand. The apartment occupied by Washington as a sleeping-room
is shown
to visitors, so also are the room at the end of the great hall used as
a
council-chamber by the general and his staff, and the tree on the lawn
to which
the former was accustomed to tie his horse. Compelled to face an army
of
veterans which outnumbered his band of raw recruits two to one,
Washington,
after several disastrous skirmishes, in the early autumn of 1776
retreated
across the Hudson River into New Jersey. It was after this retreat that
the
Morris mansion played its part in one of the most exciting incidents of
his
military career. On the crown of the heights, a mile to the north of
the
mansion, the patriots at the opening of the war had built a fort with
strong
outworks, called Fort Washington. When the retreat into New Jersey was
ordered,
one thousand men were left behind to garrison the fort, but were at
once
besieged in strong force by the British and their Hessian and Tory
allies. From
Fort Lee, on the Palisades opposite, Washington anxiously watched their
advance, and realizing the danger that menaced the garrison, decided to
abandon
the fort. His council, however, overruled him, and reënforcements were
sent.
Still, the siege went on, and a demand was made for a surrender.
Informed of
this, Washington crossed the river, with Generals Putnam, Greene, and
Mercer,
and cautiously made his way to the Morris mansion. From an upper room
of the
house he was making a hurried survey of the condition of affairs at the
fort,
when the pretty wife of a Pennsylvania soldier, who had followed her
husband to
the field, and who on the present occasion had followed the chief from
the
river, stole to his side and whispered something in his ear. Instantly
Washington ordered his companions into the saddle, and they galloped
posthaste
back to the boats that had brought them from the Jersey shore. Fifteen
minutes
after their hurried flight from the house a British regiment, which had
been
quietly climbing the heights, appeared in front of it. A woman's quick
eyes had
been the first to discover its approach, and her timely warning had
saved
Washington and his generals from capture, and averted a heavy, perhaps
a fatal
blow to the patriot cause. The fort fell after a fight that strewed the
Heights
thick with graves. Morris was an active
royalist, and, as a consequence, at the close of the war his property,
and his
wife's as well, was declared confiscated; but the title to the house
remained
in dispute until, in 1810, John Jacob Astor bought up the claim of the
Morris
heirs. By Astor the house was sold, a little later, to Stephen Jumel,
and thus
entered upon another brilliant period of its history. Jumel, after a
stirring
and adventurous youth, had settled in New York, and, prospering in
business,
had become one of the merchant princes of his time. When his fortune
was
secured he wooed and courted a beautiful New England girl, and
purchased the
Morris mansion as a home for his bride. The old house was refitted with
hangings, plate, and furniture brought from France, madame's
drawing-room being
furnished with chairs and divans that had been the property of hapless
Marie
Antoinette. The Jumels entertained on a lordly scale, and their New
Year's
feasts were counted among the most memorable social events of the
period.
Jerome Bonaparte, he who married and deserted high-spirited Betty
Patterson,
was a frequent visitor at their home, and when they visited Paris after
the
death of Napoleon they were received in the most exclusive salons. A
portrait
of madame painted during this trip shows a beautiful and charming
matron, with
finely cut, aristocratic features, and clad in a robe of blue velvet,
with
collars and lappets of lace. The husband died in 1832,
and a year later the widow made the acquaintance of Aaron Burr, the
latter then
almost an octogenarian, but still retaining in generous measure the
powers of
fascination that fifty years before had given him so much success with
women.
Burr was old and poor and under a cloud; madame was rich, courted, and
unwilling to wed again; but he pushed his suit with an ardor that would
not
brook refusal, and finally, after repeated rebuffs, told her that on a
certain
day he should come with a clergyman, and she must then yield to his
importunities. He kept his word; and one sunny afternoon in July,
riding up in
state to the great portico, accompanied by the minister who half a
century
before had married him to the mother of his daughter, Theodosia, he
insisted
that Madame Jumel should then and there become his wife. Alarmed and
dismayed,
but fearing a scandal, and urged by her relatives to give way, she
reluctantly
consented, and they were married in the great drawing-room of the
mansion. In
this same room, a few days later, — so the gossips told the story, —
madame
discovered Burr in the act of kissing a pretty maid, and soundly boxing
his
ears, ordered him from the house. Be this as it may, Parton, than whom
we could
have no better authority, says that Burr rapidly squandered his wife's
wealth,
and when she demanded an accounting coolly informed her that it was
none of her
affairs and that her husband could manage her estate. Quite naturally
there
were bitter quarrels between the ill-matched couple, followed by tardy
reconciliations, and at last, in 1834, a divorce. Madame survived her
separation from Burr thirty-one years, dying in 1865. Her last years
contrasted
strangely with her youth and middle life. Wilful always, her
eccentricities
became more manifest as age crept upon her. Towards the end she lived
like a
recluse and miser, seeing few visitors, and hoarding the fruits of her
estate
in an unused chamber, and her death was a sad and a lonely one. The
Jumel
mansion is now owned and occupied by a family of wealth and culture,
who take
pride in its history. Strongly built, it is in an excellent state of
preservation, promising to outlive another century, and nowhere can a
more
delightful hour be spent than in wandering about its rooms and the
surrounding
grounds. Washington's old council-chamber is now a dancing-room, and
the
kitchen has been converted into a billiard-room, but the drawing-room
in which
madame and Burr were married, and the room on the second floor in which
the
former died, are unchanged, and no “modern improvements” mar the solid,
antique
exterior of the house, which reminds one of an aged aristocrat standing
proudly
silent among the noise and clamor of struggling nobodies. Hamilton Grange, the
country home that Alexander Hamilton built for himself and his family
in 1802,
no longer occupies its original site. It stood until a few years ago on
Tenth
Avenue and One Hundred and Forty-second Street, but now adjoins St.
Luke's
Protestant Episcopal Church, of which it is the rectory. Hamilton
Grange, when
bought by Hamilton and called after the family estate in Scotland,
included the
plot extending from St. Nicholas Avenue to Tenth Avenue, and from One
Hundred
and Forty-first to One Hundred and Forty-fifth Streets. It then stood
eight
miles from the centre of the city, and Hamilton chose it mainly for the
quiet
and seclusion it offered. Here, when the house was finished, he brought
his
gracious wife and seven young children, and here, no doubt, for he was
then but
forty-six, and in the full prime of his magnificent powers, he hoped to
pass
many happy and honored years. But a sad awakening was to follow this
pleasant
dream. On the morning of July 11, 1804, he rode forth to face the
pistol of an
adversary, and in the wooded glade at Weehawken Aaron Burr's bullet
laid him
low. A few hours later friends brought him, desperately wounded, to a
house in
Greenwich village, where he died the next day. He is buried in Trinity
church-yard. The old house is a square two-story
structure, with a basement, plainly built of deal boards, and painted
an olive
green. There are verandas for the first story on the east and west
sides, and
at the rear a long flight of steps runs down sidewise from the rear
porch. The
main entrance is fronted by a roomy porch, where Mrs. Hamilton, the
daughter of
General Philip Schuyler, used to wait for her husband, when in the warm
summer
afternoons he came galloping up the King's Road from his office in the
distant
town, and where they sat together on pleasant evenings, and perhaps
watched the
growth of the thirteen gum-trees Hamilton had planted in honor of the
thirteen
original States. These trees are still standing, a little to the
southeast of
the first site of the house, while other trees stud the lawn, and a
ragged
border of box, showing the growth of years, runs along the abandoned
carriage
drive. The front door of the house opens into a small hallway, and to
the right
is a spacious room used by Hamilton as a library and study. Adjoining
it, also
on the right, is the dining-room, low-studded, octagonal in shape, and
having a
bay-window at the east. The wood-work, the white marble mantel, and the
fireplace are severe in irony of human hopes and ambitions. Three Presidents of the
republic have lived and two have died in New York. The house at 123
Lexington
Avenue was once the home of Chester A. Arthur, and it was there that he
died;
and an old-fashioned, Dutch-roofed structure, yet standing at the
corner of
Prince and Marion Streets, was the last residence of James Monroe.
After the
death of his wife, in 1830, ex-President Monroe removed to New York and
lived
with his son-in-law, Samuel L. Gouveneur, once postmaster of the city,
at 63
Prince Street, then a fashionable thoroughfare. He was in feeble health
when he
came, and died on July 4, 1831. His body rested in the Marble Cemetery
in East
Second Street for twenty-seven years; but in 1858 it was disinterred at
the
request of the State of Virginia, and removed to Hollywood Cemetery,
Richmond,
where it now lies. The Prince Street house shows signs of age and
neglect. It
stands amid squalid surroundings, and now does duty as a Hungarian
restaurant. In the house at 3 East
Sixty-sixth Street General Grant passed the most heroic period of his
life. The
house was bought by friends of the general and presented to Mrs. Grant
soon
after their return from Europe in 1879. Here the long illness that
ended at
Mount McGregor came upon him, and here, battling grimly with death, he
wrote
his memoirs, in order that his wife and children might not want after
he was
gone. It was the greatest battle of his life, and the picture of the
hero who
had earned and worn the highest earthly honors working amid the
miseries of a
sick-chamber to glean the gains he knew he could never enjoy, is one to
which
history offers no parallel. He won in this race with death, and
finished his
task a few days before the end came. An apartment-house has
replaced the old home of General Scott at 136 West Twentieth Street,
but the
house in which Admiral Farragut lived for several years, and in which
he died
in September, 1870, is still standing, at 113 East Thirty-sixth Street.
The
same is true of the house in which Horace Greeley erstwhile lived at 35
East
Nineteenth Street. This is a three-story brick building, now devoted to
business purposes. Here the founder of the Tribune and his daughters
dwelt for
many years, and in an upper room in this house he wrote his “History of
the
American Conflict” and did other notable work. The house at 10
Washington
Place, in which Commodore Vanderbilt lived a score of years, and in
which he
died, was replaced a few years ago by a warehouse, and a similar fate
has
befallen the last home of the first John Jacob Astor, at 37 Lafayette
Place. In
Depau Row, in West Bleeker Street, stood until recently a dilapidated
house in
which Alexander T. Stewart lived for many years, before he built the
marble
pile which is now the home of the Manhattan Club. The old house of
Peter Cooper
is still standing, at the corner of Twenty-eighth Street and Fourth
Avenue. It
stood, when first built, on the present site of Cooper Institute.
William M.
Tweed, in the early days of his remarkable career, lived at 197 Henry
Street,
moving from there to 511 Fifth Avenue, from which he made his
sensational
escape. An earlier home of Tweed was 193 Madison Street. The brownstone house at 5
West Twenty-second Street was for a long time the city home of Samuel
F. B.
Morse. Here he lived for many years after the invention of the
telegraph
brought him wealth and fame, and here he died on April 2, 1872. A
modest house
at 36 Beach Street was for nearly forty years the home of John
Ericsson, and in
this house the great engineer breathed his last March 8, 1889. Here the
“Monitor” and many other famous inventions were designed and perfected.
The
house is now used as an industrial school, where the children of
emigrants are
given a training that in future years will make them useful and
patriotic
citizens, — a fitting and worthy mission for the old home of one of the
greatest of the adopted sons of the republic. The house at 173 Houston
Street, long owned and occupied by William E. Burton, has given way to
a
business structure, and tenement-houses have replaced the early homes
of Lester
and James W. Wallack at 12½ and 151 Crosby Street. However, the house
at 436
West Twenty-second Street, in which Edwin Forrest once lived, stands
very much
as he left it, even as to its interior and furniture. In this house the
tragedian and his beautiful English wife, Catherine Sinclair, dwelt for
several
years, holding receptions at which William Cullen Bryant, Parke
Goodwin,
Nathaniel P. Willis, and other notable men were frequent guests; and
here
occurred the sudden, mysterious quarrel, of which no one has ever been
able to
discover the real cause, and which ended in the divorce suit that
helped to
make the fame of Charles O'Conor. It is a wide-front dwelling of brick,
two
stories and a basement, with a mansard roof that is really a third
story. The
entrance is by a broad stone staircase, set near the centre of the
front. When
Forrest bought the property it had a big garden in the rear, which is
still
there, fenced about with ornamental walls of wood, decked in these
later days
with a profusion of trailing vines and greenery. Tradition has it that
the
actor bought the place of a wealthy Englishman, who built it seventy
years ago
as the exact counterpart of the English home of his wife, designing
thus to
cure the homesickness to which the latter had fallen a victim. It has been the home for
many years past of a wealthy retired merchant, who, with a love for
bric-à-brac
and ample means for its gratification, has gather there one of the
choice art
collections of the town, and made it a storehouse literally overflowing
with
things as costly and curious as they are beautiful. Every inch of wall
in the
house is covered with art ornaments, and the old-fashioned spiral
staircase, so
often referred to by witnesses in the famous divorce trial, is decked
with rugs
and other trimmings. A fortune has been
expended on ivory carvings, displayed in cabinets of Louis XV.'s time,
and
there are rare old bronzes, queer andirons, and costly porcelains.
Richly
embroidered chairs from the castle at Fontainebleau are grouped around
the open
fireplace, and the north wall of the reception-parlor is crowded with
fine old
miniatures. On the eastern wall are two photographs in oval silver
frames. They
are portraits of Forrest and his wife. The actor's face has an amiable
expression not found in his other photographs. The owner spent years in
patient
search before he secured the photograph of Mrs. Forest, which
represents her in
her youth, when her beauty of face was famous. Timepieces of bygone
times,
including both clocks and watches, are hung on the southern wall, over
a satin-lined
case filled with lotus-leaf carvings in ivory. A noteworthy feature of
the dining-room is a tall cabinet, containing a complete dinner
service, which
Louis Philippe once used at the Tuileries, and which bears the royal
crest. Old
silver fills other cabinets in the hallway outside, and oil-paintings,
antique
swords, and ancient armor cover the walls of the spiral stairway from
floor to
ceiling. When the owner could no longer find room for his treasures in
the
house itself he went out to the porch and the garden beyond. He put
things
among the plants and flowers, and filled the porch with armor, lamps,
lanterns,
panels, wood-carvings, and rare rugs. On this porch Forrest used to sit
on
summer evenings and sip, in the intervals of pleasant familiar talk,
the
delicious mint-juleps that his wife brewed for him and his friends, and
of
which he was very fond. Mint-juleps were then just coming into favor,
and Mrs.
Forrest had reduced the mixing of them to a fine art. Books are stored
on the second
floor of the house, where Forrest had his library; and the top story,
where the
tragedian had his wardrobe and dressing-room, has become a bachelor's
den and
library, where the present owner's son passes his leisure hours. All in
all the
old home of Forrest is a curiously beautiful house, made interesting
not alone
by past associations, but also by the patient zeal and enlightened
taste which
have wrought its present adornment. There are few reminders in
brick and mortar or wood of the literary New York of earlier days, but
among
them are the house Washington Irving built for his New York residence,
and the
Poe cottage at Fordham. The first named stands on the southwest corner
of
Irving Place and East Seventeenth Street, — a low-browed brick
structure,
looking as sturdy and strong as any of its more youthful neighbors. It
was
built for the great writer, and became the centre of a little family
settlement, from which Irving Place took its name. It fronts on Irving
Place,
but can be entered only from Seventeenth Street. Irving would not
permit a door
and steps in front, for he loved to sit in the big room that in his day
occupied the entire ground story of the house and to gaze through ample
windows
down the hill, at the East River, filled with craft bound to and from
the
Sound. This was Irving's favorite room. Here he wrote, drank, and sat
on long
winter evenings before the great fireplace, with his pipe and his
thoughts for company.
The house had, besides this big room, three sleeping-rooms upstairs, of
which
the front one was the author's, and in the basement a tiny kitchen and
a good-sized
dining-room. Before the front windows on Irving Place hangs an iron
balcony,
and this, on those rare summer evenings when he was in New York, was
his
favorite seat. Most of the pleasant summer days he passed, even while
New York
was his main place of residence, along the shores of the Hudson or in
the
Catskills. His occupancy of the house ended not long after his return
from
Spain, where he had filled the post of American minister; but the
building
remained the property of the Irving family for many years. A few minutes' walk from
the railroad station at Fordham, forty years ago a quiet country
village, but
now fast becoming a part of the Greater New York, stands the cottage in
which
Edgar Allan Poe passed the last and beyond doubt the most peaceful
years of his
feverish life. It is a simple affair, built more than seventy years
ago, long,
low, and box-shaped. The sides, as well as the roof, are shingled. A
broad
porch shades the entrance, and near by grows a vigorous cherry-tree
planted by
Poe in 1847, and which rarely fails to bring out a full crop of fruit.
On the
lower floor of the cottage there are two large square rooms and a
kitchen. The
middle room was used by Poe as a dining- and sitting-room, and here he
received
his visitors, until his wife became ill. She then occupied the front
room as a
bedroom, and it was there she died. The second floor has three
low-ceilinged
rooms, and the front room, which was the same size as the one below,
was, it is
said, Poe's favorite room. An old-fashioned brick chimney runs up
through the
roof, and has an open fireplace, where a cheerful fire can blaze and
crackle in
winter. In this room “Ullalume” and “Eureka,” two of his best-known
poems, were
written. Poe rented the cottage in the spring of 1846, and went with
his wife
and her mother, Mrs. Clemm, to live there. His wife, Virginia, was then
suffering from consumption. She rallied for a time, but soon again
began to
fail, and died in the following year. The grounds about the cottage
comprise
about two acres, and slope away into a grassy, shady hollow. A ledge of
rocks
overlooks the cliff and the valley below. To the east the view
stretches into
Connecticut, and over the Sound to the hills of Long Island, blue and
shadowy
in the distance. Here Poe spent the quietest and happiest days of his
life. His
expenses were small, and his duties only such as he cared to assume. He
took
long walks, often going to the city on foot, and his labors were
lightened by
visits from friends and admirers. But the end came all too soon. A few
months
after the death of his wife Poe set out on his fatal trip to Baltimore,
and a
fortnight later silence had fallen upon one of the strangest geniuses
of his time. One other interesting
reminder of the New York of other days calls for closing mention.
Audubon, the
ornithologist, after an adventurous career that had led him over half
the
world, in 1841, at the age of sixty, bought the property now known as
Audubon Park.
It consisted of forty-four acres, all heavily wooded, and at that time
was
almost as remote from the city as a lodge in the Catskills. Here he
built his
house, his nearest neighbor being Madame Jumel. The naturalist took
with him a
colony of workmen, — carpenters, blacksmiths, and masons, — and houses
were
built in the woods for their shelter while the manor-house went up.
Fifty years
ago the journey to New York was by no means an easy one, and Audubon
raised his
own vegetables, and at one time killed his own meat. The Audubon
mansion was
the scene of the final triumph of S. F. B. Morse, the inventor of the
telegraph. In 1843, when Morse was setting up his first line of
telegraph
between Philadelphia and New York, its New Jersey terminus was at Fort
Lee,
opposite Audubon Park. The wire and instruments were carried across the
river
in a row-boat, and the instrument set up in the laundry of the mansion.
From
this old room, in which there has been no change in half a century, the
first
telegraph message ever sent from Manhattan Island was flashed across
the wire
to Philadelphia, recording the success of the experiment. It was sent
in the
presence of Morse, Audubon, and the latter's family. Between 1843 and
1845
Audubon was absent in the West. Soon after his return from this trip
his health
gave way, he being first afflicted with a loss of memory. He spent
hours in
endeavoring to paint, and would burst into tears to find that his
efforts were
in vain. He had broken his right arm in his youth by a fall from a
horse, and
had taught himself to paint equally well with either hand, but in this
strait
both hands had lost their cunning. In 1847 his bedchamber was moved
downstairs,
adjoining his old painting-room, and there he died, in February, 1851. The old house has been
much changed since it passed from the possession of the Audubon family
in 1864.
A mansard-roof has been added, and bow-windows extended from the front
and rear
sides. The basement, however, and the first floor have been little
altered
since the house was built, and standing, as it does, well out of the
beaten
tracks of trade and travel, it serves to add zest and pleasure to the
quest of
any searcher after brick-and-mortar reminders of old New York. |