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II
MIDSUMMER IN THE CATSKILLS THE Mountains of the Sky,
as the
Indians called them, or the Wildcat Creek Mountains, as they would be
called if
the Dutch word Catskill was translated into English, include one height
with an
altitude of 4,200 feet, and there are numerous other heights in the
group that
are genuinely impressive in their upward soaring. Yet none of them are
at all
savage, and the region has a certain gentleness of aspect that is
restful and
charming. The mountains themselves, instead of rising in craggy
steeps, nearly
always lift their shaggy, wooded shoulders in mild undulations; and in
the
tangle of valleys you rarely fail to find either an occasional village
or
scattered farms. Nevertheless, the region
is one that
can never be wholly tamed. A formal monotony of straight roads and
right-angled
corners, and fields of regular size and shape is forever impossible.
The
roadways almost of necessity adapt themselves to the lay of the land,
and are
full of graceful curves and piquant surprises. Another charm of this Catskill country is its streams. Everywhere you go you hear the purl of brooks in their shadowed, rocky hollows, and not infrequently the melody of a waterfall; and the water is bright and pure, and continues as of yore to be the lurking-place of the speckled trout. A summer afternoon The section that has most
appealed
to me is not where the mountains soar highest, but more westerly where
the
country becomes distinctly pastoral and the farms creep far up the
great
billowy hills. Sometimes the cleared land sweeps right over the giant
summits,
but oftener the highest portion of the hill has a green cap of
woodland. It is
a pretty sight as you look from one hill across to others and see the
tilled
fields forming a sort of patchwork quilt of varying shapes and tints.
The seams
of the quilt are sturdy stone walls erected at an infinite expense of
time and
labor in gathering the stones from the land and piling them into
barriers, and
then year after year keeping these barriers in repair; for even the
stoutest
stone wall is not permanent. The frosts gradually, but surely, heave it
into
complete ruin if it is neglected. One of my stopping-places
was a
sleepy little village around which the big hills rose on every side. At
the
close of a warm August day I sat after supper on the piazza of the
rustic hotel
with the landlord and his wife. Some of the neighbors who had been off
berrying
were plodding homeward on the adjacent walk, and the landlady asked
them what
luck they had had. “There ain’t as many
berries as
usual,” one of the pickers responded, “and everybody is after ‘em. Why,
up on
Cold Hill, where we went, there was seven people to one huckleberry;
and, by
gracious! it’s a long walk there and back, I tell yer.” “But you’ve got your
pails full,”
the landlady commented. “Oh, we got our share,
don’t cher
know,” the picker said, “and now we must hurry along so as to have time
tonight
to look ‘em over. That’s quite a job.” Meanwhile the landlord
was talking
with a small boy of the party. Their bantering conversation came to an
end with
the landlord’s saying: “Want to fight? But what’s the use? You could
n’t lick a
postage stamp.” The next morning I went
for a long
walk and followed a winding highway that for mile after mile climbed a
seemingly endless hill. It was a rather attractive road with little
farms
scattered along, and wooded heights rising on either side, and at last
it
brought me to where the land dipped into another valley, and I began to
descend. The day was warm and pleasant, and mowing-machines were busy,
and men
with scythes were laying low the grass around the borders of the fields
and on
the slopes that were too steep for a machine. I was in no haste and
occasionally stopped to chat with the roadside workers, or with persons
I met
on the highway. One of the latter was an old man who was hobbling along
aided
by a cane and pausing often in his slow progress to catch his breath. “I was eighty-three my
last
birthday,” he said, “and I ain’t good for nawthin’ any more. That house
you see
down the road used to be my home, but I don’t live up here in the
mountains
now. My son has the old place, and I’m just visiting him this summer. I
would
n’t care to stay the year through. It’s cold here in winter — darnation
cold,
and the roads are blocked with snowdrifts. “This used to be a great
country for
game. We had wild pigeons by the million. There was such flocks that
they
darkened the sky. They built their nests on the mountains along the
highest
ridges. Every tree, almost, would have nests in it. The nests was
usually made
out of coarse sticks, but I remember a season when the pigeons carried
away
most of a haystack I had and used it for nest-building. As a common
thing
they’d fly away every morning to their feeding-places at a distance,
and come
flying back at night, but once they got here before the snow was gone,
and then
I saw ‘em scratching for food wherever there was a bare spot. “They never stayed here
all summer,
but went off when the young ones could fly, and returned when the
buckwheat was
ripening. We had to guard our fields or they’d have taken every kernel
of the
grain. “We used to snare ‘em.
We’d scatter
buckwheat on some level place, and up above on a perch we’d have a
captive
pigeon with its eyes covered. When a flock was flying over we’d pull
away the
perch, and the bird would flutter to the ground as if it was going
after the
feed. That attracted the other pigeons to the spot. We had a net ready
attached to a
pole, and by pulling a string could make it flop over the birds when
enough had
lit, and then we had ‘em. “Once I was out layin’
behind a wall
watchin’ for pigeons, and they come and lit in an old dead cherry tree
just as
thick as they could stick — hundreds on that one tree. I killed
thirteen of ‘em
at a single shot. “They was mighty nice
eating, and
there was more meat on ‘em than you’d naturally expect, for they did
n’t look
as large as their bodies really were. That was because their feathers
lay so
snug; but when a bird was picked it was near as big as a dove. “Lots of men went to the
mountains
after squabs in the spring, and when the old birds at the nesting-place
were
disturbed they’d fly up in such numbers their wings made a sound like
thunder.
The men would climb the trees after the squabs, or they’d cut the trees
down.
Sometimes they’d cut off acres and acres. The squabs were shipped to
the
cities, and I’ve known men to get a two hundred dollar check for a
single
shipment. “There were great numbers
of pigeons
until about 1875. Then they suddenly disappeared. It is said that they
all
perished in a great storm at sea while migrating, and that vast
quantities of
their bodies washed up on the shores.” Toward night I engaged
lodging at a
farmhouse that was well up on one of the vast slopes overlooking an
impressive
succession of vales and hills. There I stayed several days. The farm
made a
specialty of dairying, and every morning Jim and Ned, the young men of
the
household, together with Mrs. Ned and the hired man, were up early
enough to
milk the fifty cows by six o’clock. Then the cows went in a straggling
line over
the hill to the pasture, and the milkers came in to breakfast. One
feature of
the morning bill of fare was buckwheat cakes. The family had them for
breakfast
the year around, and ate them with pork fat, butter, or maple sugar. During the day the men
and boys were
busy haying, but about four o’clock in the afternoon two of the
youngsters and
their dog went to the brushy pasture after the cows. At the boys’
bidding the
dog ran about over the hills and through the clumps of trees and bushes
gathering the scattered herd and barking at the lingerers until he
brought them
to the bars. There the boys counted them as they passed through and
made sure
they had them all. The supper hour was five,
and the
milking immediately followed. Women help with the milking on nearly
all the
farms. “But they don’t like it very well,” Ned observed, “and they feel
abused
unless the men do the bulk of it.” “Well,” Jim said, “I
think the
farmers would be better off if they’d lighten the job of milking by
keeping
fewer cows. As it is they pay out most of the money they get for their
milk to
buy feed. But I must say they’re generally prosperous. You take our
next
neighbor down the road, for instance. About a dozen years ago he bought
that
place for six thousand dollars. He’s got it all paid for, and he could
sell it
for twice that now. The family that owned it before he did all had the
typhoid
but one, and there were nine of ‘em. Seven died, and most everybody was
afraid
to live on the place. But this man was n’t, and he got it cheap. He
went there
with his wife and children, and not one of ‘em has had a sick day
since.” I came across this
neighbor one day
as he was ploughing. The- ground was surprisingly stony. Indeed, the
soil of
all the fields, outside of the alluvial deposits in the valleys, was
like a
vast plum-pudding in which there was about an equal proportion of
stones and
earth. The plough was continually scraping the stones or being jerked
this way
and that by them. Some of the biggest that were brought up to the
surface would
later be dragged off, but it was not the custom to trouble with any of
less
size than a man’s hat. “It’s so stony we don’t
plough any
oftener than we can help,” the farmer said. “I’m turning this sod under
on
account of the hawkweed. There’s a snag of it on this lot.. I guess
it’ll soon
get all over the world if it keeps spreadin’ the way it has here. It’ll
grow on
any land that ain’t boggy. Where a spring dreans it won’t do nothin’,
but back
on the hills where the ground is perfectly dry it flourishes; and the
dryer the
weather the better it does. By cultivating a crop we can kill it out,
but if we
seed the land down, it gradually comes back. Yes, you got to fight it
all the
while, my friend. The leaves and the
blossom-stems are
covered with a kind of fuzz, and when you are haying that there dry
fuzz flies
in the air and raises the dickens with you. It gets in your nose and
throat,
and it tickles and makes you sneeze. You might as well work in cayenne
pepper.
It makes your eyes smart, too. Some can’t handle the hay in the barn at
all on
account of the hawkweed dust. It knocks ‘em out. Even in winter it’ll
bother
you some when you’re getting hay from the mow to feed the stock. But
hawkweed
makes good pasturage. We turn in the cattle in the spring and they keep
it
browsed down. If they did n’t it would mat right over everything.” The pest did not become
troublesome
until about twenty years ago. It has a gay blossom that is quite
attractive,
and no doubt it escaped to the fields from some woman’s posie pot. Another foe that the
farmer has to
fight is the woodchuck. The creatures have their burrows along the
roadsides
and in the fields everywhere. They eat a great deal of grass, and
destroy the
vegetables in the gardens, and make inroads on various of the field
crops if
they are not strenuously opposed. “I tell you,” Jim said, “they’re an
awful
mean thing, tromping down the mowing; and they make holes, and heave up
heaps
of dirt that are a great nuisance in your fields. There’s millions of
‘em this
year — more’n I’ve ever seen before.” His assertion as to their
numbers
seemed rather sweeping; but they were certainly exceedingly plentiful.
If I
went for a walk, when they were out feeding toward evening, I had the
brown,
furry creatures constantly in view, sometimes low in the grass,
sometimes with
heads poked up watching me, but oftenest scurrying to the shelter of
their
holes. Saturday evening the
young people of
the family drove to the village. It is the common habit of all the
country
round to resort thither on the final afternoon or evening of the week.
They go
partly to trade, partly for sociability. That is the merchants’ harvest
time,
and the stores are open and the clerks busy till about midnight. A good
many of
the men drift to the hotels to drink, and this fag end of the week is
the only
time, except rainy days, when a man is likely to be seen staggering on
the
street. The haying hands are usually the worst drinkers, and on a rainy
day
they are apt to want their pay that they may spend it at some hotel
bar. Nor
are they satisfied to stop drinking and return to work until their
money is
gone. One of the midsummer
attractions of
Saturday night at the village is a dance, and people come to it from
seven or
eight miles around. About half the dancers are city vacation visitors,
but they
mix in a very friendly way with the country folk, and harmony and a
lively
enjoyment of the occasion are general. “We’re supposed to quit at twelve o’clock,” Ned said to me, “but if we get a set on just before that hour we dance it out. Most of us stay till the last minute. Here’s Emmy, for instance,” and he indicated his wife — “she’d rather dance than eat. There’s always a good crowd, and the hall is full. The women dance free, but a man has to pay ten cents for each set he dances. Some dance every set, others only one or two, but I guess they’d average five.” Coming from the hayfield A misty rain was falling
when Sunday
dawned, and after breakfast the men sat in the kitchen and smoked, or
lay down
on the sofas to doze. Presently Sam, the hired man, pulled out his
watch and
remarked that it was just seven minutes past eight. Ned commented that
Sam only
had luck to thank if he had hit the correct time within half an hour. “I bet a dollar that my
watch is
right,” Sam retorted. “I’ll take your bet,” Ned said. “I set that watch by the
town clock
yesterday,” Sam explained. “Oh!” said Ned, “you
might as well
look at the heel of your shoe as at your watch or the town clock either
to get
the true time. That clock hain’t been right sin’ I can remember.” In the afternoon the sky
brightened
and the sun shone forth on the wet earth. When the roads and grass were
dried
somewhat two of the men went in search of raspberries along the stone
walls,
intending to get a mess for supper, and Jim took his gun and spent a
leisurely
hour or two exterminating woodchucks. “I’d rather have gone
fishing,” he
said, as he entered the house later. “Yes, fishing would have suited me
better
than gunning, if I had n’t broke my pole the last time I went. I’d
landed one
nice big trout that weighed a pound and a half, but that one I lost,
when the
pole went back on me, was twice as big. By gol! it makes me cry to lose
so many
of them big trout.” The last thing before
bedtime Jim
sat down by the stove with a stick in one hand and his jackknife in the
other
and began to whittle kindlings to start the morning fire. “I do this
every
night,” he said, “unless I forgit it. In that case I have to whittle
the kindlings
in the morning. This stick is hemlock. I like pine better, because it’s
easier
to whittle, but one’ll burn about as good as the other. I wish I had
the big
pine on the road to the village that the wind blowed over this spring.
We had a
storm then that was a storm. I was settin’ by the window lookin’ up
toward the
sap bush when it started, and I see the big maples bend over nearly to
the
ground. Some were uprooted, but most of ‘em would spring back. The
clouds were
so black I thought we was goin’ to have an awful shower, but it only
rained a
little spat. “Well,” he said, as he
shut up his
knife, “I’d be saved considerable work whittling if we burned coal.
Quite a
good many families burn it in winter in the settin’ room, but the price
is so
cussed high they don’t use any more than they can help.” One of my walks in the
neighborhood
was on what was known as the Hardscrabble Road. The portion of it,
however,
that I traversed was simply a pleasant, meandering country byway. Where
it
separated from the main road was a small, whitewashed stone building
with the
date 1813 cut into one of the stones, and I inquired the significance
of this
date from some people who were sitting on the piazza of a house near
by. They
seemed sociably inclined, and I entered the gate and joined them. The
group
included a middle-aged woman and her mother, and another gray-haired,
elderly
woman, whom her companions call Aunt Jane. On the grass in front of the
piazza
sat a little girl playing with a kitten. Two of the women were sewing,
but Aunt
Jane was a visitor and lived in the building with a date on it. “That date shows when it
was built,”
she said. “It was a schoolhouse at first, and the schoolmaster lived in
this
house here. The children come from four or five miles around — yes,
even from
way over in Meeker Holler. It was such a back country then, and the
roads were
so poor that a good many come on horseback. They kept their horses in
the
schoolmaster’s barn. “Later other schoolhouses
was built
more convenient, and this one was dropped. Not long ago I happened to
be out in
the yard when a man who was drivin’ along the road stopped and spoke to
me, and
he says, ‘I’m goin’ to be bold enough to tell you that I went to school
in that
building.’ “Then he said he wished
he could
live in this region, and asked if I knew of any places for sale. I told
him I
did n’t, and he looked around and said, ‘Well, you’ve got God’s own
country
here.’ ‘They say that all the
stones in the
walls of our house was took off from that one acre yonder that the
building
stands on, but there were so many left that we had to work awful hard
to get
the land cleared so we could raise anything on it. “When they quit keepin’
school in
the buildin’ it was fixed up for a church, and there was a pulpit made
at one
end of the old schoolroom, but for the last thirty or forty years it’s
been a
house. Several families had lived into it before we got it, and it was
all run
down and was a horrid-lookin’ thing. The lower part had been divided
into
rooms, but there wa’n’t a yard of paper on the walls, and there wa’n’t
no
chamber floor upstairs. The downstairs floor is still in there with its
wide,
old-fashioned boards, the same that was put in when the house was
built; and
there’s the same padlock on the door that was on it when we moved in. “It’s quite a comfortable
house for
a small family. The only fault I got to find with it is that we don’t
have
anything better than crick water on the place. That’s the reason I’m
over here
now. I came to get a pail of spring water and a little buttermilk.” “Well,” grandma said,
“that house of
yours certain was a snug little church when I was young. I’ve went
there to
meetin’ many a Sunday.” Just then a young turkey
boldly
joined the group on the piazza. “Now you go back,” the housewife said.
“Your
company’s not wanted.” “One of them young
turkeys picks its
own ma,” the little girl observed. “It picked its ma under the throat.”
“We’ve had very good luck
raisin’
turkeys late years,” the housewife said. “I s’pose we’ve got forty at
present,
and we’ve lost hardly any since they begun hatching in the spring. But
Mrs.
Brock says hers are dyin’ off to beat all. There! I seen one fly up
from among
the cabbages down in the garden. Ruth, go and drive ‘em out.” “I don’t want to,” Ruth
responded.
“It’s too far.” “You’ll walk farther’n
that if your
mama starts after you,” the mother declared. “Besides, if you leave the
turkeys
in there they’ll eat the cabbages all up and then you won’t have none
to eat
yourself. They do like those cabbages, and they’ve got some of ‘em just
skinned.” The little girl rose
reluctantly and
went to chase the turkeys. A team was approaching on the road. “Ain’t
that
Haskins ag’in?” Grandma said. “Don’t look like his team
to me,”
Aunt Jane commented. “I
think ‘tis yet,” Grandma said.
“Yes, that’s Haskins drivin’. Must be
he’s got boarders and is givin’ ‘em a
ride.” “There’s another team
comin’ up the
hill,” the housewife remarked. “That’s Henry Bligh and
his adopted
daughter,” Aunt Jane announced after observing them a few moments. “Henry married Nora Dean,
you
remember. Her and I was close friends.” “Where does he live?”
Grandma
inquired. And they went on discussing him and his family and his abode
in
detail. It was the same with every vehicle that passed — they always
interrupted whatever conversation they were engaged in to comment on
the
occupants. I wanted to hear more
about the
church, and in response to my questions Aunt Jane said: “They did n’t
have
meetin’s there regularly, but every once in a while word would be given
out
that there was to be a meetin’ in the Hardscrabble schoolhouse. I lived
in the
village then, and I used to see the people on a Sunday go stringin’
along up
the street, and if I had n’t heard of any notice I’d wonder where they
was
goin’. You know they do go a good deal up to the burying-ground Sundays
to look
around. But when I’d see the whole lot comin’ back after two or three
hours I’d
understand they’d been to Hardscrabble. It was Old School Baptist
meetin’s they
had here, and the sermons was so long indeed that Doc. Atkins, who was
our
village dentist then, said he’d get tired sometimes and would go out
and lay on
the grass and eat caraway.” “Land! it was just like
Doc. Atkins
to do that way,” Grandma observed. “He’s moved out of town now.” “He must be gettin’ toward eighty,” the housewife mused. “He’s been an old man a long time. Doc. was a good dentist in his day. Folks all said he made grand false teeth. But he never looked neat enough to suit me. I remember tellin’ some one in the post office one day that I did n’t want his fingers round my face; and I turned, and there he was right behind me. But he just haw-hawed and took it in good part.” Ploughing one of the stony fields “He made my teeth,”
Grandma said,
“and I’ve had ‘em forty-six years.” “Oh, Doc. could make
teeth all
right,” the housewife agreed. “Yes, sir, he could. He made some for
George —
that’s my husband. One day George was bringin’ home a load of hay, and
he was
drivin’ along a side road with the hired man follerin’ behind when the
horses
took fright at some boarders who’d climbed up in a tree. The horses
shied, and
load and all went tumbling down a kind of dugway eighty or ninety feet.
They
turned a complete summersault, and the load of hay landed on George
bottom side
up. The hired man thought George was killed, but when he got down there
he
heard him sayin’ he was smotherin’, and he dug a hole in the hay as
quick as he
could to give him air.” “I s’pose them boarders
helped,”
Aunt Jane remarked. “No, no, help nothin’!”
the wife
exclaimed. “The hired man got him out alone. For a wonder George did
n’t have
any bones broken, but he was bruised up like the mischief, and his
teeth was
smashed all to pieces. So he had Doc. Atkins make him a set of false
ones.” Grandma’s thoughts now
turned back
to the subject we had been discussing previously. “There’s still a
Hardshell
Baptist Church in the village,” she said, “but they seldom have
services
nowadays. Once in a while, though, Dominie Lawson comes from down the
valley
and preaches. They say he’s smart, and I’ve always been anxious to hear
him,
but it ain’t been convenient. Did you know that they never have no
musical
instruments in the Hardshell churches?” “David Buxton who died
last spring
was a good Baptist,” Aunt Jane said. “He’d been sick a long time, and
toward
the end he was nothin’ in the world but a skeleton. For quite a while
before he
died he was so afraid he’d say or do something wrong that he did n’t
dare read anything
but his religious paper, Signs of the Times. He’s taken that paper ever
since
he was a young man. It’s full of sermons and old-fashioned religious
experiences, and most people would find it dull, but it was a great
comfort to
David. I went to his funeral, and Dominie Lawson preached the funeral
sermon.
It must have been an hour long. There was no direct application to the
occasion, but it was some predestination stuff that rambled round and
round
gettin’ nowhere, I thought. The pall bearers sat there and slept, but
I kept
wide awake to see what the sermon was goin’ to amount to. The words,
‘He knows
my sheep, he knows my voice,’ come into it pretty often, and every time
the
dominie repeated ‘em he looked right over at me.” “He knew you was a lost
sinner, Aunt
Jane,” the housewife remarked. “Way back when David
Buxton’s father
was alive,” Grandma said, “the Hardshell church used to be crowded, and
at the
time of the yearly meetin’ people would come from all around and have
family
picnics and stay three or four days. There’d be singin’ and sermons
then from
morning till along late in the afternoon when folks had to go home to
do the
chores. At night every Baptist hereabouts had his house full of
visitors. Oh,
they had great times! Listening to the sermons all day put me in a
fidget, but
those old-time Baptists would have sat there a month, I guess, and
enjoyed it.” “I was at the Baptist
Church once on
a communion Sunday,” Aunt Jane said, “but they did n’t pass me the
bread and
the wine.” “They would,” Grandma
said, “if only
you’d been baptized by bein’ immersed in a brook or bathtub or
something. They
used to have their batizin’s in the crick. Do you recollect when they
baptized
Curtis Taylor? They’d just dipped him when Doc. Atkins called out,
‘That’s
right — chuck him in ag’in.’ I was there, and I heard him. He meant
that
considerable reformin’ was necessary in Curt’s case; and he didn’t make
any
mistake about it either. Curt is quite a drinkin’ feller, and he don’t
go to
church nowhere now.” “That same day Jennie
Todd was
baptized,” the housewife observed, “and if I’d had anything to do about
it
they’d ‘a’ left her in till this time.” “The last batizin’ I went
to,” Aunt
Jane said, “was in winter. They cut a hole in the ice, commencin’ at
the bank
and makin’ a channel perhaps fifteen feet long out to the middle of the
stream.
There was snow on the ground, and it was an awful cold day, but
considerable
of a crowd come to look on. Just one young woman was baptized. The
dominie
walked out in the water with her and soused her right down under out of
sight.
Then they went to the nearest house to change their duds. It’s claimed
that a
person who’s baptized in winter is miraculously protected from feelin’
the
cold, but I noticed that the girl wanted to get in the house as quick
as she
could, and the dominie was in about as big a hurry. Their clothes froze
on ‘em,
and it’s my opinion that if she’d known as much before as she did
afterwards
she’d have waited till warm weather.” Aunt Jane now declared
that she must
go home, and a few minutes later she walked out of the yard carrying a
pail
full 6f spring water and a lesser receptacle full of buttermilk. About
this
time the farmer came to the piazza and announced that he had finished
building
a chicken house, but had neglected to provide it with any way to get in
or out.
So the housewife had to go with him to consider the problem, and I
resumed my
rambling. NOTES. — The Catskills
are
attractive in their legendary lore, their picturesque scenery, their
cool and
healthful atmosphere, and their accessibility. Good hotels and
boarding-places
are found scattered all over the region, both on the heights and in the
valleys, and it is not difficult to satisfy one’s wishes in the matter
of
expense as well as in surroundings. The chief gateways to
this outlying
group of the Appalachian system are Kingston and Catskill, both
situated on the
west bank of the Hudson. The mountains themselves begin to rise only a
few
miles from the river. A narrow-gauge railroad connects Catskill with
the base
of Catskill Mountain. You can make a quick ascent to the top of the
mountain by
an elevating railroad, but a more interesting way to go up is by a
winding
wagon road through the woods. Half way to the summit on this road is
the scene
of Rip Van Winkle’s famous 20 years’ sleep. Catskill Mountain has many
wild
cliffs, and on its eastern side is almost a sheer precipice. The view
from its
upper ledges over the plains between it and the Hudson is of unique
beauty. Ten
miles off, the river itself can be glimpsed, and on the far horizon are
the
blue ranges of the Berkshire Hills. The vicinity of the mountain
abounds in
pleasant walks and drives. Perhaps the most delightful of these
excursions is
the one through the narrow wooded ravine known as Kaaterskill Clove,
with its
limpid creek and dainty waterfalls. Persons having an
ambition to scale
Slide Mountain, the loftiest of the Catskill heights, can do so most
readily by
journeying on the railway that crosses the mountains from Kingston, and
leaving
the train at Big Indian. It is 11 miles from there to the summit. West of Kingston, 16
miles, the
Ashokan Reservoir is nearing completion. This is to be a chief source
of
water-supply for New York City, 86 miles distant. The water will flow
through a
concrete acqueduct, 17 feet in diameter, which will pass under the
Hudson at
Storm King. The reservoir will convert a portion of the fair Esopus
valley into
a lake, 12 miles long and from 1 to 3 miles broad. About 64 miles of
highway
must be discontinued, 7 villages abandoned, and the bodies moved from
32
cemeteries. The main dam rests on a foundation sunk 200 feet below the
level of
Esopus Creek and the dam rises 200 feet above the creek. A macadam
boulevard is
to encircle the lake. It will be lined with shade trees, and lighted by
electricity at night. The total cost of the undertaking will be
$250,000,000. Automobile routes go
westward into
the Catskills from Kingston, Saugerties, and Catskill. Good dirt roads
are the
rule, but they are often narrow, winding, and steep. In literature the
individuality of
the mountains is best set forth in the writings of John Burroughs, who
was born
at Roxbury in the westerly portion. Roxbury was also the birthplace of
Jay
Gould. West of the mountains, on
Otsego Lake,
is Cooperstown, famous as the home and burial-place of J. Fennimore
Cooper. The
site of the old Cooper mansion is marked by a statue of an Indian
hunter. South of the Catskills, 6 miles west of New Paltz, is the famous resort of Lake Mohonk, near the summit of Sky Top, 1,550 feet high, one of the Shawangunk Mountains. Here are held notable annual conferences concerning the World’s Peace and the welfare of the Indians. Lake Mohonk can be easily reached from Newburg or Kingston over good dirt and macadam roads. The great hotel at Lake Mohonk, and the hotels at Lake Minnewaska, 6 miles south, are managed on “a strictly temperate plan,” and “visitors are not expected to arrive or depart on the Sabbath.” The charm of the scenery in the region consists largely in the attractive mixture of the wild and gentle. |