V
ALONG THE SKY-LINE TRAIL
IN the midst of the Green Mountains a new
trail had
been born. Such news is ever an irresistible lure to one with the
tramping
habit. With him there is always "something lost behind the ranges."
The oldest trail, indeed, is a promising field of exploration till he
has
experienced it. No matter how many may have preceded him, the mysteries
of the
unknown are yet before him — lost and waiting for him —
he simply has to go. But here was a
brand-new trail, its last blaze but lately made, and one leading
through a
forest region in large part unscarred by axe or fire.
It seemed a far cry, though, to the Green
Mountains
for a man with only a week-end to spare — to
steal might be a more truthful expression —
until, in the light of the
night-train
schedules, even that two-hundred-miles off region appeared as but
around the
corner.
The sleeper train is the ever-ready
accomplice of
the man in such a frame of mind. His desk is closed at night, and,
presto !
breakfast is ready at "the jumping-off-place. "
Then, too, it is less trying to the nerves
of the
sensitive man, who perhaps does not feel that he looks his prettiest in
his
trail garb, when he can crawl, unobserved, into his berth, and can as
easily
escape the public gaze in the early morning. Truth to tell, though, the
tribe
of the tramper has so increased that the woodsiest apparel scarce
attracts a
glance, except one of envy, to-day. We "fell for it," and,
breakfasting in Burlington, caught an. early train south that
connected with
the branch line for Bristol, whither the telephone's summons had
insured the
presence of a helpful "flivver "to cover the eight miles of valley to
the journey's real beginning.
With more time at our disposal the choice
would
undoubtedly have been to spend a night in Lincoln village, about
halfway between
Bristol railroad station and the trail, or at the Davis farm only a
mile and a half
from the "jumping-off place," where trampers mostly stay.
There still remained a full hour of
morning when
packs were hoisted at the foot of the break-neck road up the
Lincoln-Warren
Pass, where, at the height of land, at a point proclaimed by a
Geological
Survey bench-mark to be 2424 feet above the sea, the Green Mountain
Club's Long
Trail arrows bade us turn our faces northward up Mount Abraham.
Before us lay a trail on which we might
follow, if so
we wished, for three whole days without contact with civilization, yet
with
livable cabins and lean-tos handily located along the way, affording
shelter
against everything except the insinuating and boot-consuming porcupine.
Should
foul weather or other mischance so will it, escape to the western
valley farms
was easy by three side trails, with one farm so conveniently situated
within a
mile of the- main course as to afford most comfortable quarters for the
night.
With three or four days more to spare, the
trail
leads on, to and across Mount Mansfield, and over the Sterling Range, a
mere
reversal of that midsummer trip "Over Vermont's Highest Spots." For
us it was to be a three days' joy ride, with shoulders burdened with
nothing
but the barest necessaries. As dear old "Nessmuk" once put it:
"We do not go to the green woods to rough it; we go to smooth it."
Nothing takes the joy out of life along the trail more completely than
a
weighty pack slung upon unaccustomed shoulders. If a wool-wadding
sleeping-bag,
with its paraffined balloon-silk cover, weighing six pounds, will keep
you
reasonably warm, and that without turning in all standing, why tote
more? If
the night is chilly, you presumably have a sweater and dry socks to
don. If
still you think that you ought to shiver, it is a safe bet that it is
because
of the vagrant zephyrs stealing in around your neck, and that this can
be
easily cured by chinking the crevices there with a flannel shirt.
We started with an axe, but I left it in
the train.
It was the other fellow's, anyway. I am afraid he missed it, although I
didn't.
For grub-stakes our list was meager in variety, but bountiful as to
quantity.
John Muir was wont to take to the mountains for weeks at a time with
nothing
but a bag of dry bread, sugar, and tea. Bread, too, was our reliance,
but
garnished liberally with two of Vermont's choicest products, good
butter and
soft maple sugar. All mountains have their genii, 't is said, but be
they gods
or demons that flourish at those altitudes, no Vermonter need fear
their anger
while lasts the secret of the ambrosial Green Mountain sandwich. Bacon
there
was also in our stores, likewise cocoa and sugar cubes, but the only
kitchen
outfit consisted of our belt cups and pocket-knives. Pork broils
appetizingly
on a forked stick, and a slice of bread held conveniently at hand the
while
conserves the drippings.
It was such a gypsy jaunt as makes old
boys young.
Never did skies smile more graciously upon a wayfarer. "Daylong the
diamond weather, the high, unaltered blue," kept with us on our favored
way. Credit it to the good weather if you will, the fact remains that,
although
the partners were here for the first time met (a rash experiment
according to
all woods lore), no human frailty intervened to mar one single hour.
Nobody
spoiled the cooking; nobody snored (so far as known); not even the
owner of the
axe complained at its loss, a fact in itself that is fraught with
significance
to every woodsman. A pet axe may not be carelessly treated by
strangers or by
friends with impunity, nor alluded to other than in terms of
respectful
consideration.
For my own part it was not altogether
because of the
newness of this particular bit of trail that the trip especially
appealed. From
time to time tidings had come from this section of the Green
Mountains, the
Lincoln and the Bread Loaf groups, telling of the charm of their
unbroken
forest mantle, and of the public-spirited idealism of the man who was
their
owner. The late Colonel Joseph Batten was a son of Vermont who saw
values in
his native mountains and their forests other than those that could be
calculated in thousands of feet board measure. More than fifty years
ago his
vision showed him a day when fine timber would be scarce. Even then he
began
buying mountain lots along the main range, until people thought him
daft and in
need of restraint. In later years, as timber rose in value, his
one-time
critics began to think him shrewd. Little they suspected, though, that
these
purchases, that at the time of his death, 1915, had extended for
approximately
thirty miles along the mountains, and aggregated thirty thousand acres
or
more, were not of a speculative sort.
He bought what he wanted when it offered,
but he
never sold. Now and again he parted with a little of the timber, when
it did
not interfere with his plans, but never to be butchered. Until his will
was
read it is doubtful if any one other than his lawyer knew what were his
plans
for these great forest holdings. After his death it developed that
those plans
were entirely in the interest of his heirs, and that, as a bachelor, he
had
elected that all who dwell or tarry within Vermont should be his heirs
in this.
As one of his executors has said, it was scenery, not timber, that he
had been
so persistently acquiring in all those years. For what reason? Let the
language of his will explain.
"Being impressed with the evils attending
the
extensive destruction of the original forests of our country, and being
mindful
of the benefits that will accrue to, and the pleasures that will be
enjoyed by,
the citizens of the State of Vermont, and the visitors within her
borders, from
the preservation of a considerable tract of mountain forest in its
virgin and
primeval state," he bequeathed this property to the officers of
Middlebury College, his alma mater, as trustees for the college and the
public.
A few years before his death all his lands on Couching Lion Mountain
were given
to the State of Vermont for public enjoyment and profit as a State
Forest.
Taken as a whole, there can be no doubt
but that the
Batten forest is the largest and handsomest remaining tract of primeval
timber
in this section of the country, and future generations will surely
praise the
name of him whose foresight and unselfishness saved for Vermont this
splendid
relic of that feature which gave to the State its name. Thus, in one
way or
another, through such benefactions as that of Colonel Bartell, through
the
establishment of public forests by the State, and through the
trail-building
activities of the Green Mountain Club, Vermont is acting on the
suggestion
once made by Lord Bryce in an address at Burlington. He there urged
that effort
should be made "to spare the woods whenever they are an element of
beauty, . . . to keep open the mountains, and allow no one to debar
pedestrians from climbing to their tops and wandering along their
slopes."
As an earnest of their desire to follow
that counsel
the people of Vermont formed their Green Mountain Club, to plan and
build three
hundred miles or more of footway throughout the length of their verdant
hills.
Year by year the trails lengthen out and improve in quality, and this
bit is
in truth a tramper's joy. Not only does it find every high spot where
broad
views abound, and that without incurring unnecessary steepness for mere
climbing's sake, but it hunts out every intervening charming dell and
glade and
ravine, every picturesque cliff, every refreshing spring, that could
possibly
be brought within the line of march without undue departure from the
course.
Except for a mile or two at the northern end, a bit that probably will
eventually be relocated to follow along the face of the southeastern
cliffs of
Couching Lion, there is not a monotonous inch in the whole
twenty-seven miles
from the Lincoln-Warren Pass to the Duxbury valley.
Trail signs of the Green
Mountain Club
In its construction also
the trail is as near
perfection as a mountain tramper has any right to expect. Not that it
is a
graded path, that horror of the pedestrian. Its excellence lies in the
wide
swamping of the brush and encroaching limbs, full six feet in the
clear, in the
painstaking grubbing-out of toe-tripping roots, and in the liberality
of the
directing signs and blazes. For one who enjoys the mild excitement of
uncertainty that goes with picking a way along a dimly spotted old
woods trail,
the frequent blazes on this route, with their three coats of white
paint, until
they literally blaze even in the night, might seem an affront to his
woodcraft.
If the beauty of the trail does not compensate for this, and serve to
prompt
the veteran's tolerance for that feature, he can find plenty of scope
for his
Indian instincts elsewhere. This trail was designed to open that
mountain
picture-gallery to every one, old and young, and especially to the
tenderfoot,
to conduct him through its mazes with certainty and safety. For any
one who
has ever followed the trail of the Bennington Section of the Green
Mountain
Club south from Mount Equinox toward the Massachusetts boundary by the
light of
its coral-red disc markers, the impulse is strong to think of this one
as the
white pearl trail.
For this model in mountain trails the
Green Mountain
Club, and the tramping fraternity generally, are indebted to the
idealism and
unremitting enthusiasm of the President of the Club's New York Section,
Professor Will S. Monroe, of Montclair, New Jersey.
In the course of his wanderings in many
lands he had
seen mountains galore, and had traveled the length of long miles of
trail. In
the Green Mountains he perceived great possibilities, provided that the
original inspiration for a sky-line route could be realized.
It was James P. Taylor, of Burlington,
Vermont, who
first proposed making the great mountain range of the State available
as a
recreation field for walkers throughout its length, a thought that at
once
appealed to the fancy of many of his fellow citizens, and that led to
the
organization of the Green Mountain Club in 1910. The plan likewise met
with the
approval of the State Forest Service, because of its economic
importance in the
scheme of fire patrol and protection, and, in cooperation with the
Club, the
cutting of the way was almost immediately undertaken by the forest
officers.
Unfortunately, however, the necessities of the forest patrol did not
fully
harmonize with the ideals of the tramper. A route across the ridges was
too
meandering and laborious to meet the foresters' needs, and the trail
that they ran
on easy grades along the slopes was far too tame and unspectacular for
those
whose quest was scenery.
It was in the midst of this disappointing
discovery
in 1916 that Professor Monroe offered his services for the building of
this
trail south from the southern base of Couching Lion by a route that
should be
the next thing to an aerial line. His labors began that very summer at
Montclair Glen, and season after season, with unabated zeal, his
vacations
were devoted to this work. It was a toilsome task and beset with many
bitter
discouragements. Camping in the mountains for weeks at a time, with
all that
that involves in the way of packing in supplies and the daily cooking
and camp
chores, in addition to the actual work of construction through weather
foul and
fair, and often under the torment of ravenous swarms of flies, calls
for a
degree of courage and persistency of an uncommon sort.
Professor Monroe's reward must be in the
knowledge
that by the autumn of 1918, after the equivalent of five months of
arduous work
distributed through the three years, he and his assistants, the latter
mostly
inexperienced volunteers, had to their credit almost forty-two miles
of as
perfect trail as could be built for the purpose. In recognition of
this
service the Green Mountain Club has officially designated his route as
the
Monroe Sky-Line Trail. It was in the exploration of the northern half
of that
stretch of trail that we spent these three October days.
Some years ago Colonel Battell cut a
buckboard road
up the west slope of Mount Abraham to an elevation within five hundred
feet of
the summit, and there built a commodious cabin of logs. That was in the
summer
of 1899. A trail ran thence three quarters of a mile to the top, and
three and
a half miles farther along the ridge to Mount Ellen, the highest point
of the
Lincoln group, with a spur trail down the western side from that
summit for
half a mile, where another lodge was built in 1903 at the edge of the
big
timber. Although these cabins have been sadly abused by unappreciative
humans
and by hungry porcupines, they are still reasonably sound and tight.
Elsewhere
along the trail, comfortable lean-tos have more lately been built, some
by the
Club, others through the generosity of Miss Emily Proctor, a member of
a distinguished
Vermont family. One of these camps is located in Birch Glen, a charming
ravine
a trifle more than seven miles north of Mount Ellen, and another close
under
the outstretched granite paws of the Couching Lion in Montclair Glen.
The Long Trail reaches Mount Abraham
cabin, not by
the Batten road, though that, too, is still usable by pedestrians, but
by a
route of its own over a southerly spur, an easy two hours' stroll.
Another
half-hour from the cabin puts one on the open summit at 4060 feet above
the
sea.
In the neighboring valley folks refer to
this summit
as "Potato Hill," and this notwithstanding that it was the citizens
of the town of Lincoln, at its western foot, who, back in '60, gave it
the name
of "Abraham "in recognition of the great emancipator, for whom the
town went solid in that memorable year. Mount Ellen, the highest point
of the
group, one hundred feet above Abraham's dome, was named by Colonel
Batten
himself. Subsequently, when the Coast and Geodetic Survey had
determined the
fact of Mount Ellen's greater stature, the Colonel's ideas of the human
fitness
of things is said to have rebelled at having a woman bigger than the
heroic
Lincoln, and, for his purposes, at least, he transposed the names of
Abraham
and Ellen. Until the work of the Geological Survey produces a completed
map of
the region, all names are unofficial, and those that have been accepted
or
applied by the Green Mountain Club will be as authoritative as any. As
to the
name "Potato Hill," that will soon be merely local history, inasmuch
as "Abraham" seems to have the call.
A camp on the Long Trail
Looking north from Mount Abraham's summit,
Mount
Ellen looms up across a deep and heavily forested bay, with a bit of
Stark
Mountain behind, the lesser intervening high points of the connecting
ridge, over
all of which the Long Trail runs, being Little Abraham, 3860 feet;
Lincoln
Peak, 3980 feet; Mount Boyce, 3880 feet; Batten Peak, 4060 feet; and
then Mount
Ellen, 4160 feet. Southerly the eye follows across the group dominated
by Bread
Loaf Mountain to Mount Carmel and Killington Peak, the latter nearly
forty
miles air-line away. East and west the range of vision reaches, on the
one
hand, to the White Mountains, and on the other into the Great Punch
Bowl vale,
wherein lie the farms of Lincoln, and through the nick in its western
wall to
the gleaming expanse of Lake Champlain and the close ranks of the
Adirondacks
with Mount Marcy and Whiteface bulking high above the rest. Close at
hand on
the eastern side one looks down into the valley of the Mad River, its
cultivated lands nipping into the wooded slopes on either side, a
peacefully
pastoral bit sharply contrasting with the rugged surrounding heights.
Nothing but the realization that four good
mountain
miles lay ahead to camp at Mount Ellen lodge could serve to hurry one
from that
outlook. But the view follows one along the trail; the frequent vistas
from the
ridge, now east, now west, with impressive plunging glimpses into deep
valleys, and the broader outlooks from some of the minor summits, fully
compensate for the regrets with which Abraham is left behind. Mount
Ellen
itself, being wooded at the top, commands no wide horizon, but that
defect
will one day be easily remedied by the construction of a timber tower
that
will clear the tree-tops.
Forewarned that no handy spring had yet
been located
near Mount Ellen lodge, canteens were filled at the copious and
constant
spring just north of Mount Abraham, where, about 1878 or 1880, R. D.
Cutts, of
the Coast and Geodetic Survey, had his camp. This spring needs to be
remembered
by all who pass that way, as it is the last drinking-place in a three
hours'
walk. As one of the avenues of retreat from the ridge to the
settlements lies
through the ravine below the Mount Ellen lodge (via a rough, abandoned
logging
road), this cabin will doubtless serve a valuable purpose in that
connection,
despite the want of a reliable water-supply nearer than half a mile
downhill.
For those who pack their shelter with
them, no finer
tenting-ground could be desired than that beside the spring at Glen
Ellen, the
saddle between the Lincoln and Stark Mountains, less than two miles
north of
Mount Ellen's summit. From the Lincoln-Warren Pass to this point,
eight and a
half miles, would be a comfortable day's tramp even with full camp
outfit,
allowing ample time for enjoying all the outlooks by the way. From this
camp-site in the glen is yet another route to the western valley, a
trail leading
down through the forest for half a mile to the junction with a good
wood road
which passes through the Hallock farm, not far from South Starksboro,
where
night quarters may be had.
The Stark Mountains, though not so high as
the
Lincoln, ranging up to 3675 feet, are no less beautiful in their dress
of magnificent
old forest, and the outlooks are frequent and interesting. From the
southern
end of the main summit the trail emerges upon a shoulder, the Champlain
Outlook, commanding an unobstructed prospect of fully one hundred and
fifty
degrees, from Whiteface in the Adirondacks on the west, to Couching
Lion, the
Chin of Mount Mansfield, and Jay Peak on the Canada border at the
north, and
to Mount Washington in the east.
Another hour, or a little more, of winding
among the
trees and moss-draped ledges, steadily dropping down a northern spur
the while,
and the top of Stark Wall is reached, the longest and steepest pitch of
the
entire trail. On the whole, the grades, which are far from difficult
anywhere,
are easiest when this walk is taken from the south, as in our case.
There is no
denying that Stark Wall is steep, and to one toting a goodly pack up
that hill
on a warm summer day it would as certainly seem long. Going north, one
rattles
down the pitches at a rapid pace, and comes to rest in a narrow
east-and-west
pass through which, once on a time, a highway ran. The old road
location may be
followed westward into Starksboro to-day.
Baby Stark and Molly Stark summits, each
about
twenty-eight hundred feet in elevation, have yet to be crossed before
Birch
Glen camp is reached at the edge of the settlement, the usual
stopping-place
for the night. During those last few miles the first traces of the
lumberman
seen since the beginning are encountered, but the cuttings are old,
and are
crossed only for short intervals by the trail. For those who, like
ourselves,
are not in full camping panoply, but another mile to the valley's edge
brings
one to Beane farm, where wanderers on the trail are always welcomed,
even by
the dogs.
As the trail runs it is fourteen and a
half miles
from the pass just south of Mount Abraham to the Beane place, and
exactly a
like distance if the old Battell road is followed up the first summit.
Over
this distance two youngsters once established an unpremeditated
record, in the
accomplishment of which they must have experienced not a few surprises
closely
akin to thrills. It is doubtful, though, if they would care to repeat
it even
as a lark, but it will serve to indicate the clearness of the trail
when it is
known that these boys tramped all through a moonless night, and without
a
lantern or torch of any kind. Their plan had been to gather in a stock
of food
at the last house, but luck was against them here, for the family
larder happened
to be too low to help them with so much as a crust. Banking on a rumor
that the
Mount Abraham cabin had lately been vacated by the trail-building crew,
who
were supposed to have left some supplies behind them, the boys,
banishing
prudence, took a sporting chance.
Dusk was settling when the cabin was
reached, but the
last flickering gleams of daylight served to show that old Mother
Hubbard never
was more certainly up against a bare pantry. There was plenty of meat
about,
but it was on the claw, so to speak, in the form of live porcupines.
Men lost
in the woods and starving have saved their lives more than once before
now by
eating raw "porky," but our heroes were not starving, thank you. A
hurried account of stock produced one banana, the remains of a dim and
distant
lunch, plus one broken match. Should they go back? Not for them. They
had come
from Massachusetts to go over that trail. With the aid of the match
they
examined and memorized their map, a mere sketch, and started. All night
they
traveled by the beacon light of white-painted blazes, and at
breakfast-time
pulled in to the Beane farm, famished and tired, conditions that Mrs.
Beane,
with youngsters of her own, knew how to cope with. Even if they did not
see
much of the trail, or anything of the landscape, they had had a grand
adventure
and voted it "some trip."
The ascent of the cone of
Burnt Rock Mountain
From Beane's to Burnt Rock Mountain, on
the trail
toward Couching Lion, it is a little less than five and a half miles of
easy
going through the woods. The ups and downs are only trifling, just
sufficient
to cross a few side ravines, though the rise is steady all the while.
Toward
the end of the first hour the Fayston-Huntington Pass is entered
through which
the official road map of the State shows a secondary highway as
running. The sojourner
on the trail will hunt here in vain for any sign of civilization beyond
the
benchmark of the Government survey (2217 feet), for that road was
abandoned to
the wild things more than sixty years ago, after the railroads came to
offer
easier outlets for the settlers in the Mad River valley to the east.
After skirting two intermediate wooded
summits along
the upper edge of a cut-over slope, across which the view to the New
Hampshire
mountains is unobstructed, the bare ledges of the cone of Burnt Rock
Mountain
come in sight, the trail ascending to its summit by a series of natural
stairways, galleries, and terraces. Three hours from the farm will
suffice to
put the tramper on this 3100-foot viewpoint. Just ahead Mount Ethan
Allen rises
with just the topmost rocks of Couching Lion appearing around the
spruce-covered shoulder. In another two hours and a half the series of
summits
of old Ethan's namesake will have been circled and passed, the Lion's
head will
loom up just beyond, his massive paws spread toward you, and Montclair
Glen be
reached, with its cabin latch-string hanging outward to every follower
of the
trail.
For those who find an added zest in the
experiences
of camping along the way, these cabins that the Club has built and
equipped are
an especial joy. They are likewise a boon to any who, through stress of
weather
or other mischance, may be in need of temporary shelter. It should be
an
unwritten law of the trail that in departing the guests should leave
behind no
trace of their occupancy in the shape of unextinguished fires, unwashed
utensils, or litter of any kind, and that a reasonable supply of dry
wood
should be provided in a sheltered place to cheer the next party,
which, for
aught one can tell, may arrive fatigued, after dark, or in the rain. A
good
woodsman needs no law to compel attention to such details. He knows
instinctively the etiquette of the forest road, and observes it
unfailingly.
Neglect in such matters marks the delinquent as a greenhorn and a boor.
Montclair Glen camp-site is charming
despite the fact
that it lies on the edge of an old burn. A terrific fire, fed by the
fresh
slashings of a lumbering job, swept the eastern and southern slopes of
Couching Lion during the summer of 1903, and its devastating effects
are even
now apparent in the stark gray crags, and in the gaunt and ghostly
forest of
dead spruce, now bleached by weathering. Where soil enough remained to
furnish
lodgment for seeds, the inevitable cherry and birch jungle has sprung
up, Nature's
machinery for the rehabilitation of the forest. The State Forest
Service has
been endeavoring to hasten the process by the planting of thousands of
spruce
and cedar seedlings, and with great promise of success, so that one day
the
glen will be as bowery again as are the opposite virgin slopes of Ethan
Allen
Mountain. The camp is perched upon a little knoll, beside which flows a
lively
brook of purest Vermont vintage, and looks up at the black-capped Ethan
on the
one side and upon the steep, bare granite of Couching Lion on the
other, while
to the west, between the two mountains, is framed a wide vista that
reaches to
the Adirondacks.
From the camp to the summit of Couching
Lion, or to
Callahan's farm at its Duxbury base, it is just two and three quarters
miles,
two miles of the way to the summit being across the burn. In following
the Long
Trail en mute for Mount Mansfield, a fork in the logging road, a mile
or so
from the camp, leads to the left and into the Callahan Trail to the
top, where
throughout the summer the Waterbury men maintain their modest hut in
charge of
a keeper.
For us the furlough was up, and, having
telephoned
from Beane's in the morning to have a motor sent from Waterbury to meet
us at
the base, we slipped down the mountain and made connections with the
sleeper
train for home.
The Cone of Crouching Lion
over the forested spurs of
Ethan Allen Mountain
THREE DAYS IN THE OLD FOREST
First Day
MILES
HRS. MIN.
Bristol Station (Rutland R.R.)
by auto to Lincoln Pass
8.60
0 00
Lincoln Pass to Mount Abraham
To Lincoln Mountain summit
3.75
3 30
To Mount Ellen summit (cabin
54 mile more)
6.25
5 00
To Glen Ellen camp-site (side
trail west to South Starksboro
5 miles)
8.00 7 30
Second Day
Glen Ellen to Champlain Out
look
1.50
0
45
To Appalachian Pass (side trail
west to Starksboro road 3
miles)
4.00
2
15
To Birch Glen camp .
5.50
4
30
To Beane farm
6.50
5
00
Third Day
Beane farm to Burnt Rock
Mountain
5.40
3
00
To Mount Ethan Allen
7.50
5
00
To Montclair Glen camp
8.80
5
30
To Couching Lion summit (or to
Callahan's farm in 15% hours) 11.55
8
30
* The mileage and elapsed times are
cumulative for
each day, distance and time being figured from point last named in
previous
line. The times here given are sufficient for leisurely walking. The
second
day's walk may be done easily in five hours, but the scenery is worth
prolonging it to ten.
MAP: Monroe Sky-Line Trail, surveyed by
Herbert
Wheaton Congdon, and published by Green Mountain Club, Burlington, Vt.
AN ADDITION FOR GOOD MEASURE
The southerly half of Professor Monroe's
trail lies
over Bread Loaf Mountain and its satellite heights, and is twenty miles
in
length, from the Lincoln-Warren Pass to Middlebury Gap, through another
great
area of the Battell forest. With ten days to devote to a semi-camping
trip the
route might begin at Middlebury Gap and, taking the Long Trail there,
continue
over the Sky-Line to Couching Lion, Mount Mansfield, and out to Johnson
on the
north.
From the railroad at Middlebury an
automobile stage
runs thrice daily via Ripton Gorge to Bread Loaf Post-Office, somewhat
less
than three miles from the beginning of the trail in the depths of the
Gap, and
quarters for the night may be found at Noble's farm, or at the inn a
mile or
more beyond at the end of the stage line.
Three approaches to the ridge are
available from
this base, one from a point not far from Noble's farm and which
intersects the
Club trail close to the summit of Bread Loaf Mountain, one from near
the inn,
or the main trail which is farther east in the Gap. All these are shown
on the
Rochester topographic sheet of the United States Geological Survey,
edition of
1917.
Few would care to attempt the passage of
the entire
chain of peaks in the Bread Loaf group in a single day, for it is
nearly
twenty-two miles from the Gap to the Davis farm at the westerly end of
the
Lincoln-Warren Pass, and with many ups and downs. For that reason the
Club has
located one of its lodges beside a brook in an attractive glen just
north of
Bread Loaf summit, where all the comforts of a forest home, save food
and
blankets, await the wayfarer. The second night may be spent at the
Davis farm,
or in camp at the Battell lodge close under the summit of Mount
Abraham; the
third at Birch Glen lodge or at the Beane farm, within another mile;
the fourth
at Montclair Glen lodge, or at the huts on the summit of Couching
Lion three
miles beyond the Glen; the fifth in Bolton village; the sixth at Lake
Mansfield
Trout Club; the seventh on Mount Mansfield; the eighth at Barnes' Camp
in
Smuggler's Notch, or at the lodge on Morse Mountain; the ninth in
Johnson at
the northern end of the trail.
The length of the daily stages of such a
programme
would be as follows:
*MILES
Middlebury Gap to Emily Proctor
lodge
(Bread Loaf Mountain)
8.75
Thence to Lincoln-Warren Pass.
10.50
(To Davis', 12 miles; to
Battell lodge, 12.50 miles.)
Thence to Birch Glen.
13.50
“ “
Montclair Glen.
7.80
“ “
Couching Lion summit
2.75
“ “
Bolton village
4.50
“ “
Lake Mansfield
11.25
“ “
Mount Mansfield
6.25
“ “
Barnes' camp.
2.33
“ “
Morse Mountain camp
(estimated)
7.00
“ “
Johnson (estimated)
9.00
Total for eight or nine days
83.63
* One mile an hour is considered an
average leisurely
traveling time in such country for one with a moderate pack.
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