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PLANTS FOR SPECIAL
SITUATIONS “All is fine that is
fit.”
— Old Proverb. ONE of the most
essential points in successful gardening is that the plants employed
should be well suited to the soil and situation, for however well the
garden is conceived and carried out we get but a sorry effect unless
there is a wholesome luxuriance of growth and an appearance of
permanence and peace. Besides, it is cruel to require a plant to
struggle for existence in an environment totally unsuited to it when
there are others which will do the work far better because they are at
peace with the surroundings. One has but to observe nature to realize
that for every situation, however unlikely or uncompromising, there is
some green thing which will find in it a congenial home and will
gratefully clothe its barren surface with bloom and verdure. Constantly
in garden making we are confronted with conditions under which most of
the well-known hardy herbaceous perennials and gay annuals may not
thrive, and it often requires much expense and experiment before the
right plants are found. The following notes have been made over a
period of many years from nature, from many gardens visited, and from
constant experimenting in my own, and while they do not pretend to be
exhaustive by any means, may be of some assistance to those whose
horticultural enigmas are similar to my own. The problems chosen
are those which seem to me most often met with. THE PROBLEM OF SHADE Many times I have
heard people say: “We cannot have a garden; our place is too shady.”
Now this is not at all true, for, while to many of us the word “garden”
signifies a sunny space, gay and sweet with Roses, Pinks, Poppies,
Sunflowers, and brilliant annuals, to which shade is a serious menace,
one may still have a garden of great beauty, charm, and fragrance
beneath the spreading boughs of trees. One point the owner
of the shaded gardens must keep in mind — that the roots of trees rob
the soil of both food and drink, and so nourishment in extra quantity
must be given the plants, and water also, for a shaded situation does
not by any means imply a damp one. I know of no annuals
that do really well in shade, and there are not so many highly coloured
flowers, but one will have instead a softly charming harmony. All the
lavender, purple, and blue tones assume an especial quality of tender
loveliness in shadowy places, and white is much purer than in full
sunshine. By a shaded garden
we of course do not mean one which is so densely shadowed as never to
be reached by the sun. Few plants would thrive under such conditions.
Beds of ferns make a delightful setting for the many spring bulbs
possible in the shaded garden. Plants marked * will stand only light
shade. Asters (hardy) WHERE GRASS WILL NOT
GROW BENEATH TREES Oak, Ash, Birch, and
Horse-chestnut trees, the roots of which go deep into the earth, are
less a tax upon the upper soil than such as Maples, Elms, Beeches, and
Sycamores, whose roots prowl along the surface. The ground beneath
Pines is particularly hard to clothe, but it is said that the
indomitable little Periwinkle can find a living even here. For carpeting the
ground when grass has given up the attempt to spread its green carpet,
we should be grateful to the following plants: Vinca
minor
Periwinkle Many of these small
subjects have variegated varieties (especially the Goutweed) which are
very useful in lighting up shadowy corners. It must be borne in mind
that plants set out in such an uncompromising situation must be well
looked after and watered until well established. SHRUBS AND VINES FOR
SHADED GARDENS Actinidia polygama
Barberries, in var. PLANTING THE LOW DRY
BANK If such banks occur
in parts of the place where it is desired that great neatness prevail,
they are best sodded and kept in order with the rest of the lawn, but
if in more informal localities where grass grows upon them only in
untidy whisps, a charming feature may be made of such a bank by the
employment of some of the creeping plants, which will easily find a
footing upon its sloping surface and finally form a sort of turf. They will, of
course, need care and water until thoroughly established, and the bank
must be kept free from weeds until the little plants have fairly
covered the surface. The plants may be
set out about a foot apart each way, and will soon cover the space
between. All the plants listed are easily raised from seed, so the
large number required may be acquired at little expense. Some of them
also seed themselves freely, those marked * are especially prolific.
All are trailers save the Sea Pink and the Maiden Pink, which latter, I
think, might be termed a semi-trailer. Thymus serpyllum, in
var. Wild Thyme THE CLAY BANK The clay bank
presents greater difficulty, as this soil by reason of its density
shuts the plants off from their proper share of air, besides, owing to
the slope and the frequently baked condition of the top soil, much of
the surface water runs off before the thirsty roots have an opportunity
to enjoy it. It is easy to see that many plants would fail under such
trying conditions, but much may be done by choosing only such plants as
are able to meet the situation with equanimity. If the slope is a long
one trees and shrubs may be employed, and of those perhaps Elms, Norway
Maples, and Oaks are the best. The American Thorns, Crataegus, may also
be used and: Robinia
hispida
Rose Acacia Such a bank is best
planted in the fall and the plants kept well watered in dry weather.
Young plants are best employed, as these are more vigorous and
establish themselves more quickly, and broad, natural-looking groups of
the kinds used are most effective. THE WILD GARDEN Many plants by
reason of their sophisticated and finished appearance are unsuitable
for naturalizing in half wild and waste places. Hollyhocks, Paeonies,
Phlox, save the old purple, Deiphiniums, Chrysanthemums, Moonpenny
Daisies, and Veronicas seem particularly to belong to the tidy garden;
and new or rare plants should not be planted in such a situation. The
most suitable are those which are native to the neighbourhood, or which
are so little fussy about soil and situation and so hardy that they in
a large measure reproduce themselves, so that in time there will be
really natural thickets and stretches planted without our agency. The following list
includes such plants as seem to me particularly appropriate for
naturalizing: HERBACEOUS Achilleas, in var.
Yarrow BULBS Narcissus
incomparabilis, in var.
ANNUALS English Field Poppy PLANTS FOR DAMP
SITUATIONS Marsh and water
gardening is best carried out upon rather a broad scale — that is, good
stretches of one sort of plant, of course regulated by the size of
one’s available space. A large majority of marsh plants are rampant
“doers” and prosper at such a rate that they quickly crowd out their
lesser brethren unless steps are taken to protect them. And so if the
space to be planted is of no great size, these enthusiastic colonizers
should be omitted and choice made among the more conservative
stay-at-homes. If, however, one has a fairly broad marsh or extensive
waterside at one’s disposal one may use these larger subjects with fine
effect, and with them the moisture-loving trees and shrubs. Most of the
marsh plants need little care when once established, spreading or
seeding generously, and for this I am devoutly thankful, for I cannot
love the marsh and its handsome tenantry as dearly as the landlubbers
among my plants. Whether it is that pottering about among them is
neither very practical nor agreeable, or whether it is an instinctive
aversion to all bog life, animal or vegetable, a dislike of wet feet
and oozy places and a mortal fear of snakes, I do not know, but verily
am I glad that the marsh folk are able to shift for themselves in a
great degree. It is necessary to
pay some attention to the marsh colour scheme, for many of its
inhabitants are highly coloured and many wear the beautiful but warring
hue known to fame as “rosy magenta.” Luckily, however, there are a fair
number of fluffy white flowers to intervene between these and the
vibrant swamp Lilies and gay scarlet Cardinal Flower, and only a little
care is needed when planting is done in this “broad natural manner.” We
excuse Nature of much for which we would condemn the gardener. In laying out a path
along a stream side the planting should be largely done on the opposite
bank, as this gives us the opportunity of enjoying a better view. In planting around a
formal pool in the flower garden the choice is best limited to plants
of a tidy and rather severe character, and for this purpose nothing is
better than the many water-loving Irises and the broadleaved Funkias,
with perhaps a few feathery Spiraeas interspersed. PLANTS FOR MARSH
AND STREAM SIDE Alnus
viridis
Green Alder PLANTS FOR DAMP
SITUATIONS Acorus
Calamus
Lobelia syphilitica WALL GARDENING Wall gardening has
become one of the arts and it is not possible to enter into so large a
subject in so small a space, but for those who have already a dry
retaining wall or two in their gardens the few plants here given, which
are so easily established and grow so readily in such a position, may
be of use. If the wall is an old one there will probably be soil enough
in the crevices to content those plants, but if fairly new, soil must
be rammed firmly back into the crack which we intend to plant. If one
has a wall to build and wishes to make of it a really successful wall
garden, it is advisable to procure one of the many fascinating books
which cover the subject. Of those Miss Jekyll’s “Wall and Water
Gardens,” and H. H. Thomas’ “Rock Gardening for Amateurs” will be found
most helpful. Seed may be rammed
into the soil between the stones, or very small seedlings, or tiny bits
of plants with a good root. Large plants are not advisable, as they
seldom “take hold” in those narrow quarters. PLANTS FOR
DRY RETAINING WALLS Nepeta
Mussini
Santolina incana PAVED WALKS There is much to be
said in favour of paved walks and terraces. In small, enclosed formal
gardens flagstone walks give a very quaint, old-world air, and they are
a charming adjunct to houses of the Pennsylvania Colonial type, or to
more pretentious dwellings built after the Elizabethan style. They are
permanent and easy to maintain, always dry, and admit of a very
interesting type of gardening. The stones, which, of course, must be
flat, may be irregular or regular as to shape, and if irregular as to
shape may be of various sizes, but small stones, of course, are not
suitable. The soil beneath the stones should be a good sandy loam to
the depth of several inches, and the cracks between the stones will
serve as a lodging place for many a charming creeping or tufted thing. One must, however,
use restraint in this sort of gardening and keep in mind the fact that
the path is first of all designed for the pedestrian, and one does not
wish to have one’s feelings harrowed at every step by crushing some
helpless green thing beneath one’s heel. We do not mind picking our way
a bit, though, and if this diminutive tenantry is kept a bit to one
side they are in no great danger. Some of the small plants seem quite
indifferent to being trod upon. Thyme is one of these and sends up
clouds of welcoming perfume behind our lagging footsteps. Only the most
diminutive subjects are suitable for the centre of the path, but along
the sides, if the path be wide enough, some of the larger alpines may
have a place. In planting, seedlings or very small bits of plants
should be used, or seeds may be inserted between the cracks. A narrow
wooden plant label is a useful tool in setting out the tiny plants, for
any real tool known to me is far too large. One must have the
eye of a lynx for weeds in the paved path and slaughter them in
infancy, for once well rooted beneath the stones it is a terrible task
to get them out. Except for this the path will require little
attention, for once settled the small plants have at their disposal the
moisture beneath the stones, good food, and a cool root-run, which
insures them peace and comfort. Many of them will self-sow, and perhaps
after a while the path will become overcrowded, but they will make
prettier groups of themselves than we can possibly devise, and thinning
them out occasionally is not a very difficult matter. SMALL PLANTS FOR
CENTRE JOINTS Acaena
microphylla
Draba aizoides ALPINES FOR OUTER
EDGES OF PATH Dianthus
caesius
Tunica saxifraga ANNUALS Sedum coeruleum
lonopsidium acaule GRAY-LEAVED PLANTS The charm and
usefulness of plants with gray, hoary, or gray-blue foliage is being
more and more realized and appreciated. They make possible many a soft
and satisfying harmony, and have the advantage of remaining in good
condition the season through. In the late autumn, when most of our
flowers have been driven away by sharp frosts, the gray-foliaged plants
assume a new interest and keep the garden looking “dressed” until
winter has fairly closed down upon us. Antennaria
tomentosa Artemisia Stelleriana “ abro anum argentea Cerastium tomentosum Pinks in variety Funkia Sieboldiana and Fortunei Nepeta Mussini Elymus glaucus (syn. arenarius) Centaurea candidissima, Annual “ gymnocarpa, “ Cineraria maritima, " (Creeping Dusty Miller) Ruta graveolens Santolina incana “ chamoecyparissus Lavender — tall and dwarf Thymus lanuginosus, in var., Creeping Alyssum saxatile var. compactum Veronica incana Eryngium maritimum Salvia officinalis Sedum Sieboldii Ewersii and spectabile Achilea tomentosa Festuca glauca Thalictrum glaucum Stachys lanata |
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