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CHAPTER VII. Difficulty in procuring
black-tea manufacturers Return to
Shanghae City taken by a band of rebels Chief magistrate murdered
Strange
prejudices of foreign residents Their professions of neutrality
Chinese
warfare Dr. Lockhart's hospital and patients Value of medical
missions
Public opinion changes Shanghae evacuated by the rebels Entered by
the
Imperialists Cruelty of soldiers Effects of the rebellion on the
face of
the country.
THE arrangements I had been making during
the summer
months with farmers and tea-cultivators for supplies of plants and
seeds in the
autumn, were brought to a successful termination in the end of August.
But as
tea-seed does not ripen in China until October or November, I had two
months
before me to attend to another and equally important part of my duties.
This
was to procure and forward to India some first-rate black-tea
manufacturers a
task which I found much more difficult than that of selecting and
exporting
seeds and plants. The Chinese are supposed to be an erratic race, and
are found
almost populating such places as the straits of Malacca, Java, and
Manilla. Of
late years shiploads of coolies have been sent to the West Indies,
while
thousands have emigrated to the gold-fields of California and
Australia. But
nearly all these are natives of the province of Canton, and the
southern part
of Fokien, and moreover are men who have either been brought up in
seaport
towns, or only a short distance inland. Had such men suited my purpose,
I could
easily have procured them in any number. But unfortunately the best
black-tea
districts of China are far inland; the natives of such districts are
simple
countrymen who have never seen the sea in the course of their lives,
and who
have a very indistinct idea of countries which lie beyond it. And
besides, such
men as I wanted were able to earn good wages at home, and consequently
less
inclined to push their fortunes abroad. Although it would, therefore,
have been
the simplest thing possible to procure Chinamen, it was a very
different
matter to get hold of good tea-manufacturers. There were two ways of accomplishing the
object in
view, either by going to the homes of such men myself, or by getting
them
through respectable Chinese at one of the northern ports. The first of
these
methods was not very likely to succeed; it is not probable that a
stranger and
a foreigner could induce such men to leave their homes, however liberal
the
offers he might make them might be. They could, or at least they would,
have
had no confidence in the fulfilment of such promises. I had, therefore,
adopted
the second mode of gaining the desired end, and now determined to
return to
Shanghae for a few days in order to see what progress had been made in
the
matter by the Chinese who had promised me their assistance. On returning to Shanghae I found no
progress whatever
had been made, and indeed men's minds were so full of the rebellion
raging in
the country at the time that little else could have been expected. In
the end
of August and beginning of September rumours were current that the
Fokien and
Canton men, who are rather numerous at this port, were about to rise
and hoist
the standard of the new Emperor, T'hae-ping-wang, in this ancient city.
The
authorities, who had long felt their weakness, issued proclamations
denouncing
a man named Le, who, with some forty others, was taken up and detained
for some
hours at the office of the magistrate. The official, however, did not
dare to
punish these persons: indeed, he was coolly informed that if he did so
his own
head would pay the penalty. This threat had the desired effect: le and
his companions were set at liberty, and it is needless to say grew
bolder and
more unruly than ever they had been before. As a further step to
preserve the
peace of the city, a body of lawless men belonging to a secret society,
who
could not be controlled, were taken into the pay of the Government.
This was a
last resource, and placed the Government upon a mine which could be
sprung at
any moment for its destruction. The morning of the 7th of September, being
the day on
which the mandarins usually pay their visit to sacrifice in the temple
of
Confucius, was chosen by the rebels for the attack upon the city.
Without
knowing anything about their plans, I happened to pay a visit to the
city soon
after daybreak. On entering at the north gate I observed a number of
men
looking earnestly at some object in the guard-house, and saw at a
glance that
something of an unusual nature had taken place. Ascending the steps of
the
guard-room with the Chinese, I was horrorstruck at finding the mats and
pillows
belonging to the guard saturated with human blood. Upon inquiry, I
found that a
band of men, believed to be composed chiefly of the members of the
secret
society already noticed, and called the "Small Sword Society," had
entered the city and were then on their way to the houses of the chief
mandarins, namely, the Taoutae and Che-heen. They had met with some
feeble
resistance from the guard, whom they soon overpowered and
made themselves
masters of the gate. When the rebels reached the centre of the
city, they
divided themselves into two divisions, one of which marched to the
Che-heen's
office, and the other to the Taoutae's. The guard at the Che-heen's,
consisting
of about forty men, fled without making the slightest resistance, and
are
supposed to have been in league with the rebels. Some one ran to inform
the
magistrate that his house was attacked, and the old man came out and
endeavoured to pacify the rebel mob with a few fair words and promises
for the
future. He was told, however, that such promises were now too late,
upbraided
for his former conduct, and barbarously murdered on the spot. The division which marched to the
Taoutae's was
equally successful, and met with no resistance. Report says this
officer who
was the highest in Shanghae behaved very bravely on this trying
occasion.
Having been informed of the intended attack a minute or two before it
took
place, he dressed himself in his official robes and came out to meet
the
rebels. Most of his attendants had fled, and, seeing that the few men
who
remained true were a very unequal match for the rebels, he prevented
them from
offering any resistance. "If you want my life," said he, "you
have the power to take it, see, I am unarmed and defenceless." The
rebel
chief replied that they did not want his life, but that he must
forthwith hand
over the official seals, and take an oath not to molest those who were
now the
masters of the city. He immediately gave up the seals, and retired to
his own
apartment, where he was allowed to remain unmolested while the other
parts of
the buildings were plundered and gutted. In the afternoon I paid another visit to
the city
with the Rev. Mr. Edkins, of the London Missionary Society. On arriving
at the
north gate we found a strong guard stationed there, who, after some
little
persuasion, allowed us to pass in. From the appearances which presented
themselves at every turning, it was evident the rebels had made a good
use of
their time. Not only were all the gates strongly guarded, but patrols
of two
men each were marching through the city in all directions and
preserving order.
These guards had strict orders to preserve the property of the
inhabitants from
thieves of all kinds, and to punish in a summary manner all who might
be caught
stealing. Two men who were taken in the act were immediately put to
death
without judge or jury or trial of any kind. The order which prevailed
in all
quarters, considering the lawless bands who were in possession of the
city, was
very remarkable. Threading our way through the narrow
streets, in the
direction of the public offices, which had been the scene of such
disturbances
in the morning, we were everywhere treated with marked respect both by
the
inhabitants and by the various patrols. When we reached the house of
the
Cheheen a strange scene was presented to our view. Hundreds of people
were
busily engaged in ransacking the premises and carrying off everything
which
could be taken away. The furniture of the various rooms and all
moveable
articles had gone first, and the crowd were now busily employed in
taking down
the windows, doors, all kinds of framework, wooden pillars, and indeed
everything which could be converted into use. This crowd was not what
in
England we would call a mob, but a set of respectable, orderly
plunderers, or
perhaps luters would be a better word, whose proceedings were
sanctioned by the victorious rebels now in possession of the city.
However
particular the latter seemed with reference to the preservation of
private
property, that of the mandarins and Government seemed to be given over
to the
people for plunder as a matter of course. When we reached the upper end
of the
collection of buildings which formed the official residence of the
Che-heen, we
observed a crowd of people, who seemed to be lookers-on like ourselves,
moving
to some apartments on one side of the central hall. Following in their
steps,
we came to a court, or small Chinese garden, containing a few
ornamental plants
in pots and a pretty arbour covered with the Glycine sinensis.
In a
small room, now in ruins, at the upper end of the court, a crowd of
people were
observed gazing intently at some object on the floor, and from the
expression
on every countenance we readily conjectured that this must be the body
of the
Che-heen, who had been murdered in the morning, and which we were now
desirous
of seeing. As we approached the spot, the crowd readily made way, when
a
melancholy and shocking sight was presented to our view. On a mat, in
the
middle of the room, lay the body of the murdered magistrate, covered
with the
wounds which had been inflicted by his ruthless countrymen.
It was a sickening sight, so we turned away and made
our way out through the busy crowd, who were still employed in what
appeared to
be considered a kind of legal plunder. Leaving the offices of the magistrate, we
now
proceeded to the residence of the Taoutae, or highest
civil officer in the city. Here a scene of a different kind, but
scarcely less curious, was presented to us. This place had been made
the
head-quarters of the rebels, and we found the doors strictly guarded by
their
men. The guards allowed us to pass without question; and, walking up a
straight
path to the furthest end of the buildings, we found a large hall filled
with
armed men, engaged in arranging some matters connected with their food
and
wages. A more blackguard or unruly looking collection of human beings I
had
never before seen. Some were armed with short swords, others with
muskets or
pistols, and a number with rusty-looking spears of all forms and sizes.
Here
and there we observed some busily engaged in grinding their swords, and
every
now and then feeling their edges like a butcher about to slay an animal
for his
stall. The greater number were taking part in a hot discussion which
was then
going on with their leaders, all talking at the same time, and,
apparently, in
the greatest disorder; but, as this is Chinese custom, it gave us but
little
surprise or concern. The uniform worn by this motley band was most
varied in
its character; but each man wore a distinguishing badge of some kind,
either
round his head, or as a sash round his body, or on his breast. The
Fokien bands
had generally a red band tied round the head; while the Canton men had
a white
one, said to be a badge of mourning for the Ming dynasty their
ancient
kings. Having seen quite enough of these unruly
spirits, we
left their halls, and walked quietly homewards through the streets of
the city.
Every place was perfectly quiet: some of the shops were open, and the
people
generally seemed to be looking on with Chinese indifference. In the new foreign town measures were
taken by the
English and American residents for their own protection. On the morning
after
the occurrences had taken place which I have just been narrating, the
pretty
Chinese Custom-house, which is so great an ornament to the foreign
town, and
which had been evacuated by the authorities, was completely gutted by
the
Chinese, and no one interfered to prevent them. It was attacked by no
mob of
lawless vagabonds, but by the sober and industrious people in the
neighbourhood, who seemed to consider its contents a kind of lute
to
which they were justly entitled. Every one agreed, when too late, that
it was a
pity to allow such a proceeding within our own boundary, more
particularly when
a single consulate official, or a single sailor from one of the
men-of-war in
port, could have prevented it, without any force being necessary
further than
to stand at the door and warn the people off. The description which I have thus
attempted to give
of the taking of Shanghae by this rebel band will throw some light upon
the
character of the Chinese, but it is difficult to give to civilised
nations in
the West a correct idea of this extraordinary people. Will it be
credited that
a city containing upwards of 200,000 inhabitants walled and
fortified, and,
to a certain extent, prepared for an attack allowed itself to be
taken by a
band of marauders scarcely numbering 500 men, badly armed,
undisciplined, and
bent on plunder? And yet such is the fact, for, however strict the
rebels
appeared to be in their endeavours to preserve private property, they
were
robbing the Government and "squeezing" some of the more
wealthy among the inhabitants. It seemed to be generally acknowledged
that they
had, as yet, no connexion with the Kwang-si rebels, although they
expected to
have shortly. It was, no doubt, the intention of many of them to
"feather
their own nests" pretty well in the first place, and then hand over the
conquered city to any one who chose to take it off their hands. In the
mean
time the poor people suffered, trade, both foreign and native, was
paralyzed,
and one trembled for the fearful calamities which now hung over this
unhappy
country. For this state of things in Shanghae the
foreign residents
have been greatly to blame, inasmuch as they not only did not endeavour
to
prevent them, but actually encouraged the attack. I do not mean that
they ought
to have taken to arms and fought on the side of the Imperialists, but
the moral
force in their hands was very great; and had it been generally known
that
foreigners were opposed to any attack upon Shanghae, it is more than
probable
such an attack would never have been attempted. But a course very
different
from this was pursued. The sympathies of foreigners generally were all
enlisted
on the side of the rebels and against the government of the country. It
was no
secret that we as a body, instead of opposing an attack upon the city,
would
hail it with pleasure, and wish it success, although we would otherwise
remain
neutral. Civil and naval officers, missionaries, merchants, and
shopkeepers,
all with a few honourable exceptions were in favour of the
debauched band
of robbers who took the city of Shanghae on the 7th of September. The
unprejudiced observer of these events had now to witness a most
extraordinary
and anomalous proceeding, namely, that of our men-of-war gallantly
putting down
the hordes of pirates which were infesting the coast, while the land
pirates,
such as those who took the city of Shanghae, were encouraged and
applauded. And
why? Because the latter spent their days and nights in smoking opium,
in
drunkenness, and in all kinds of debauchery, and gave out they were
followers
of Tai-ping-wang, or, as he was called, the Christian King! It would be too sweeping an assertion to
place the
whole of these men in the same class. Some perhaps were patriots
anxious for
the good of their country, but I am afraid these characters were
comparatively
rare. And yet the good ones were probably amongst those who held out to
the
last, and who suffered the greatest obloquy when "public opinion"
changed. Public opinion, when by this is understood
the
intelligence of a people, is generally correct; and it is difficult to
account
for the errors of the Shanghae community, more particularly when it is
considered that it consists of men of education and sound common sense.
The
supposed Christian character of the Kwang-si rebels had no doubt a
tendency to
interest and captivate, and perhaps the corrupt nature of the present
government of the empire might make many wish for a change. But
whatever the
main body of the rebels at Nanking might be and the visits of
foreigners to
that camp had been too few and brief in duration to enable them to form
a
correct estimate of their politics and religion there surely could be
no
doubt as to the character of those who claimed connexion with them in
Shanghae.
And add to this, that there was but one opinion regarding them shared
by all
respectable Chinese in this part of the country and that was that
they were
nothing more than thieves and robbers and one wonders still the more. For more than a year this band held
possession of the
ancient city of Shanghae. A large force was sent against them by the
government, and encamped at various points round the city-walls, and at
a safe
distance from the ramparts. The object of the Imperialists appeared to
be not
so much to drive them out by hard fighting as by gradually cutting off
their
supplies to starve them into capitulation. Here again their plans were
to a
certain extent frustrated by neutral foreigners. The foreign
settlement, as it
is called, occupies a large tract of ground situated on the north-east
side of
the city just outside the walls, and is bounded on the east by the
Shanghae
river. Notwithstanding the complaints and remonstrances of the
government of
the country, many persons were unscrupulous enough to keep supplying
the
insurgents with arms and ammunition of all kinds in large quantities,
for which
they were liberally paid with the spoils stolen from the public
treasury or
wrung from the inhabitants. Some were in the habit of making large sums
of
money by running cargoes of gunpowder, carrying it into the city,
advising and
counselling the rebels, and then when danger approached sneaking back
to the
foreign settlement for the protection which the flags of England or
America
afforded them. Nor was this conduct effectually checked by either of
these
governments for a considerable length of time, although they had full
power to
have done so. And this is what we call being neutral!
The battles or skirmishes which took place
every few
days betwixt the besiegers and besieged during the time the city was in
the
hands of the rebels were most amusing performances.
During the time of the siege Dr.
Lockhart's Chinese
hospital was crowded with patients. Some came to have limbs amputated,
others
to have balls extracted, and others again to have their wounds dressed.
All
were attended to in the kindest manner "without money and without
price." It did not signify to the Christian missionary whether the
person
carried to his door for medical aid was an imperialist or a rebel; it
was
enough that he was a human being suffering pain and desiring to be
relieved.
And hence the wounded of both parties met in the same hospital, and
each had
his wounds attended to by the same friendly hand. In his report for 1854 Dr. Lockhart
relates the
following circumstance: "One Sunday afternoon two wounded persons
were
brought in; one was a Canton man, an artilleryman at the battery on the
eastern
side of the river, or Poo-tung; he had fired his gun once, and was
reloading it
when the charge exploded and so severely injured his arm that it had to
be
amputated below the elbow, and he did well. The first shot that he
fired had
crossed the river, and struck a woman near the city-wall on the leg,
destroying
all the soft part from one side of the limb. These two patients met at
the
hospital about an hour afterwards." He then tells us: "A man was
brought in one morning whom a rebel had caught, supposing him to be an
imperial
soldier, and tried to behead(!), but owing to the man's struggles he
was unable
to effect this, though he inflicted most severe injuries upon him."
Then a
beggar is brought in who had been struck on the leg by a cannon-ball;
his wound
is dressed, he is lodged and fed and sent away cured. An
old fisherman was dropping his anchor at the
mouth of the river on a windy day, when his hand got entangled in the
cable, so
that it was almost twisted off. The thumb was found to be much mangled,
the
back of the hand was almost destroyed, and the metacarpal bones
fractured, so
that the fingers and palm were all that were left. The result of
skilful
treatment is that the hand "is now almost well, though the man will not
have much motion in his fingers." Such are the labours of the medical
missionaries;
skilful, unwearied, and free to all as their native air, or their
refreshing
streams. The soldier, the sailor, merchant, mechanic, farmer, and
labourer,
high and low, rich and poor, have the benefits of the hospital freely
offered
to them. In 1853 no fewer than 11,028 patients had been operated upon,
or
treated in some way, while in 1854 the number amounted to 12,181. But the Medical Missionary Society have
objects which
are even of a higher nature than "healing the sick and curing all
manner
of diseases." When the patients assemble for medical treatment in the
hall
of the hospital they have the Gospel preached to them by one of the
members of
the London Mission. Private religious instruction is also given to
patients in
the different wards. And thus, while the heart of the cold and
unfeeling
Chinese is softened and opened up by kindness--which he feels to be
disinterested, and which acts like spring showers upon plants the
seeds of
the Gospel of Christ are sown upon it, and, it is hoped, in many, very
many
instances, they may vegetate and produce their fruits in after years
when the
patients have returned to their homes. The charitable labours of the medical
missionary are
not confined to the hospital within the bounds of the foreign
settlement. He
has also a dispensary in the midst of the crowded city, which he visits
on
stated days and attends to outdoor patients, many of whom may not be
able to
come as far as the hospital. Indeed, wherever his labours are required
he is to
be found ministering to the wants of the sick, and doing all he can to
alleviate pain. The following extract from one of Dr. Lockhart's
reports will
show that the jails are also visited, and give a good illustration of
the
cold-blooded cruelty of the Chinese government:
"In the beginning of the summer, attention
was
called by some of the natives in the city to the fact that there were a
number
of men who had been severely wounded in the Che-hλen's (or
magistrate's) jail;
a visit was immediately paid to the place, when it was ascertained
that, in a
yard which was one of the departments of the inner prison, about fifty
pirates,
all Canton and Fokien men, had been confined; but that on the morning
of the
day when it was visited they had tried to break out of prison and were
very
riotous, on account of some additional hardship that the officers
intended to
inflict on them, and also because some of the party were to be
separated from
the rest. The soldiers of the garrison had been called out, who fired
several
rounds of musketry into the yard and the prisoners' cells, till the
rioters
were rendered quiet, or at least disabled; when the soldiers rushed in
and beat
them with wooden poles for some time. After this the whole of the
prisoners
were loaded with extra manacles, and those who had not been severely
wounded
were forthwith submitted to the bastinado till they could hardly walk. "The scene presented in the yard, and the
cells
around it, was one of perhaps common occurrence in Chinese prisons,
but, it is
to be hoped, not often seen elsewhere. Four men were killed, and lay at
the
door in a heap, just as they had been thrown down; one man had compound
fracture of the thigh; three had compound fracture of the tibia, the
result of
gun-shot; others had fractures of the leg and arm. On inquiring from
these what
had caused their injuries, they said they were occasioned by blows from
the
poles with which they were attacked by the soldiers after the firing
had
ceased; several had received severe sword-cuts, and others had
bullet-wounds in
various parts of the body and limbs. About twenty were wounded in the
affray;
the remainder had the skin of their backs, thighs, and legs beaten off
by the
bastinado; and the moans and cries that proceeded from all parts of the
yard
were heartrending. The men that had the compound fractures had not only
chains
on their hands, and bars of wood chained to their feet, but also on one
knee a
band or oval hoop of iron, placed over the knee, while the leg was
flexed on
the thigh, and to confine this in its place a rod of iron was thrust
through
the middle of the hoop at the ham and locked, so that it could not be
removed;
the knee was thus kept forcibly bent, causing much agony to the
wretched
prisoners. "It was then late in the afternoon, and
almost
dark; all that could be done, however, was effected as speedily as
possible;
bullets cut out, wounds dressed, fractured limbs bound up and put in
position, as
far as time and circumstances would allow; and the next day, bandages,
splints,
ointment, and whatever else was wanted, were taken and applied to the
sufferers. Attempts were made, by application to the officers, to
induce them
to take off the hoops and chains from the fractured limbs, but the
application
was refused; and at a later period, when the request was more urgently
pressed,
the officers said that they would not do it, and that they hoped the
men would
all die, and the sooner the better; also that they wished no help or
relief to
be afforded to them. "However, the pirates themselves were very
thankful for the relief they experienced, and they assisted and nursed
one
another very kindly. The way in which orders were given, and relief
administered,
in the cells, was a curious process; one of the occupants was an
intelligent
young man, and spoke English very well; he had been beaten on the
thighs, and
had logs of wood chained to his legs, so that he could not walk; this
man was
put on the back of another, who had chains only on his hands, and was
thus
carried about from cell to cell to receive instructions, and give
directions as
to what was to be done in the intervals of the visits. The bodies of
the four
dead men remained in an outer cell for more than a week, but a mass of
ice was
thrown upon them to keep them from putrefaction to some extent, until
the
affair had been examined into, and reported to the superior officers.
One or
two more died, and in process of time the rest recovered of their
wounds, after
rather a large consumption of plasters and bandages. When the city was
afterwards taken by the Triads, the young man above alluded to was
found to be
in command of a detachment of men, and in charge of the Little East
gate; and
being dressed up in velvet and satin, presented a very different
appearance
from what he had done when loaded with chains and covered with rags in
the
prison." The Chinese as a people are cold and
indifferent to
religion of any kind: humanly speaking, nothing less than a miracle
will
convert them to Christianity. Missionaries have been in China for many
years;
larger numbers have been sent out from England and America since the
last war,
when the country was partially opened up to foreigners. These men have
been
labouring there, I believe, in most instances, most conscientiously,
and with
an ardour and single-mindedness of purpose which is worthy of all
praise, and
yet what is the result? How few have "believed their report"! The
Chinese as a nation are jealous, selfish, and eminently conceited; it
is
therefore difficult to convince such minds that nations many thousand
miles
distant will subscribe large sums of money merely for their religious
benefit,
or that men are to be found who will leave friends and home with no
other views
than to convert them from heathenism to Christianity. And hence it
would seem
that the labours of the medical missionary societies would prove a
powerful
auxiliary in aiding the spread of the Gospel amongst such a people. All
nations, even the most cold and selfish, have some kindly feelings in
their
nature capable of being aroused and acted upon. If anything will warm
such
feelings in the minds of the Chinese, the labour of the medical
missionary is
well calculated to do so. The blind receive their sight, the lame are
enabled
to walk, and the wounded are cured. And when the better feelings of the
man are
thus expanded into something like gratitude, his prejudices are more
likely to
give way, and thus his mind may become softened and more apt to receive
religious impressions. Having been led to make these remarks upon the value of medical missions, I will now return to the Shanghae rebellion. For many months the army of the Imperialists seemed to make no impression upon the rebel bands who held the city. Battles, such as has been described, were fought every few days, the success, such as it was, being sometimes on the one side and sometimes on the other. Mines were dug and sprung, breaches were made in the walls and as quickly repaired, and it seemed as if the siege was likely to last for an indefinite period of time. But public opinion began to waver, and then changed altogether; it was found out at last that the bands who had taken and held possession of the city were not patriots fighting for their country's good, but merely a set of land-pirates, whose brethren we had been taking means to destroy on the high seas. The commanders of the French ships of war in the port, who had never viewed them with a friendly eye, and who had had some disputes with them on various occasions, now took a decided part against them and in favour of the Imperialists. A breach was made in the city wall and the rebels attacked in their stronghold, which they defended with much skill, and eventually forced the French to retreat after having lost some of the best and bravest of their officers. But this trifling success was unavailing.
The
imperial government, having frequently remonstrated with the foreign
consuls
against their settlement being used as a communication with the city,
was at
length listened to, and allowed to build a high wall in order
that this
connexion might be cut off. The insurgents thus hemmed in on all sides
and
likely to be eventually starved, bombarded by the French ships, having
to
repulse the attacks of the Imperialists, and deserted by nearly all
their
friends, at length came to the determination to evacuate.
When the rebels evacuated the city, the brave
Imperialists entered it and immediately set it on fire in various
places. The
evening on which this took place was perfectly calm, and the scene must
have
been one of the grandest and at the same time one of the most painful
ever
beheld. The fire was first seen running along the ramparts and
destroying tent
after tent these having been occupied only a few hours before by the
insurgents. Then the city was observed to have been set fire to in
several
places, and, owing to the construction of the houses (they are built
chiefly
with pine and bricks), the fire spread with fearful rapidity. The whole
city,
about three miles in circumference, appeared to be in flames guilty
and
innocent were perishing together, thousands were rendered houseless and
driven
from their homes, and where to go they knew not. In the midst of all
this
terror and confusion the imperial soldiers were plundering what had
been left
by the rebels, which I believe was not very much, and hunting down the
unfortunate, in order to cut their heads off and claim the promised
reward.
Some of the latter, as a last resource, hid themselves in coffins,
hoping thus
to escape their ruthless pursuers. Many of them were discovered and
slain, and
then the soldiers used this as a pretence for breaking open the coffins
of the
dead, in order to get the money or gold and silver ornaments which are
often
deposited with the bodies after death. Of all that band of marauders
who fled
from Shanghae that night, but few remained either to fight or to steal.
The
numerous heads which were afterwards seen on poles, and trees, and
walls, the
fearful stench which poisoned the air for many weeks during the hot
weather
which followed, told a sickening tale of crime and blood. The bravery
displayed
by them on many occasions showed plainly of what stuff the Chinese are
made,
and what as a nation China may yet become, and made one regret it had
not been
shown in a better cause. When I arrived at Shanghae, a few days
after the
evacuation, I found fully one-third of this ancient city in ruins. The
poor
inhabitants were wandering about looking out for the spots where their
dwellings formerly stood, and in many instances marking their
boundaries with a
few stones or bricks. Most of them seemed completely heartbroken and
paralysed,
and were taking no steps to rebuild their former homes. The gardens and
nurseries in the city and suburbs have necessarily suffered severely.
It was
quite melancholy to look into many of them. One just outside the north
gate,
which furnished me with some of my finest plants when I was collecting
for the
Horticultural Society of London, was completely destroyed. A fine Glycine
sinensis, which formerly covered a large trellis, was now
half-buried in
ruins, but still putting forth its long racemes of blue flowers
half-covered
with the broken tiles and bricks, and told in mournful accents its tale
of peaceful
times. A noble tree of the carnation-flowered peach, which in former
years used
to be loaded with rose, white, and striped blossoms, and admired by all
who saw
it, had been cut down for firewood, and the stump alone remained to
tell where
it grew. Hundreds of pot-plants were huddled together, broken, and
destroyed.
The little house where the gardeners used to live was levelled with the
ground;
and the old lady, the proprietor whom I had known for some years, and
who
managed the concern after her husband's death, was gone no one knew
where. In
the city many places were in the same condition. A great portion of the
celebrated tea-gardens was destroyed. Here there was one little garden
situated
in front of a gentleman's house and surrounded with high walls. In
addition to
numerous plants in pots, it contained two pretty specimens of Sophora
japonica pendula, grafted high, as we see the weeping-ash in
England, and
presenting an appearance not unlike it in the distance. The house and
high
walls were in ruins, and the trees, which had somehow escaped, could
now be
seen a long way off, budding and becoming green amidst this scene of
desolation. The face of the country for some miles from the city walls
was also
entirely changed. Formerly it had a rich appearance, and was studded
all over
with clumps of trees. All had been cut down for firewood for the
imperial army.
Clumps of Cryptomeria japonica, Juniperus sphζrica, and bamboos
had
entirely disappeared. The celebrated peach-gardens near the south and
west gates
of the city, which at this time of year (April) used to be one sheet of
bloom,
had now nothing remaining except the stumps of the trees. What I
regretted as
much as anything was some noble specimens of Salisburia adiantifolia
the "Ging-ko" of the Japanese. This is apparently indigenous to this
part of China, and attains to a very large size; indeed, it is by far
the
largest tree in the district. Its fruit, which at first sight has
somewhat the
appearance of the almond, is much esteemed by the Chinese, and
consequently
abundant in the markets. Such are some of the effects of rebellion
in a
half-civilised country like China. The picture which I have endeavoured
to
paint applies, unfortunately, to many other parts of the country
besides
Shanghae. Hundreds of towns and villages were in the same state; their
inhabitants had been driven from their homes by fire and sword, the
innocent in
many instances perished with the guilty, and even women and children
were not
spared. One party was just as bad as the other, and the "tender
mercies" of both "were cruel." Amongst foreigners residing in
this country enthusiasm had generally given way to common sense, and
they had
now no hopes of the Christian character of the Canton or Shanghae
rebellion
indeed there has ever been strong proof that thieves or pirates would
be a much
more appropriate name to apply to the rebels in these towns than the
sacred one
of Christian. Let us hope for better things as regards the Nanking
insurgents
and their leader Tai-ping-wang, when we know them as intimately as we
have
known their countryman at Shanghae and Canton. Although the picture which I have given of
some parts
of China is a melancholy one, it must not be supposed to represent the
general
condition of the empire. China is a large country, and those parts
disturbed by
rebellion bear but a small proportion to the remainder, which is
perfectly
undisturbed. Indeed, even a mile or two away from a place in the hands
of the
rebels we find the country quiet and the husbandman engaged in
cultivating his
land. Thus it is that notwithstanding all these disturbances we have no
lack of
tea, silk, and the other articles which form the bulk of our exports. |