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THE
MYSTERY OF EASTER ISLAND
THE STORY OF AN EXPEDITION BY MRS. SCORESBY ROUTLEDGE HONOURS MOD. HIST. OXFORD; M.A. DUBLIN JOINT AUTHOR OF “WITH A PREHISTORIC PEOPLE: THE AKIKUYU OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA” PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR BY HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY, LD. LONDON AND AYLESBURY AND SOLD BY SIFTON, PRAED & CO. LTD., 67 ST. JAMES'S ST. LONDON, S.W.I TO THE MEMORY OF MY MOTHER TO WHOM THE LETTERS WERE WRITTEN WHICH HAVE FORMED A LARGE PORTION OF THE MATERIAL FOR THIS BOOK, BUT WHO WAS NO LONGER HERE TO WELCOME OUR RETURN AN EASTER ISLAND IMAGE PREFACE As I sit
down to write this preface there rises before me, not the other side of
this
London street, but the beautiful view over the harbour of St. Vincent,
Cape Verde
Islands, as seen from the British Consulate. It was a hot afternoon,
but in
that shady room I had found a fellow-woman and sympathetic listener. To
her I
had been recounting, rather mercilessly as it seemed, the story of our
experiences in the yacht, including the drowning of the tea in Las
Palmas
Harbour. When I had finished, she said quietly, "You are going to
publish
all this I suppose?" I hesitated, for the idea was new. "No," I
replied, "we had not thought of doing so; of course, if we have any
success
at Easter Island we shall make it known, but this is all in the day's
work." "I think," she said, "that there are many who lead
quiet stay-at-home lives who would be interested." Times have changed
since 1913, there are now few who have not had adventures, either in
their own
persons, or through those dear to them, compared with which ours were
but
pleasant play; but I still find that many of those who are good enough
to care
to hear what we did in those three years ask for personal details.
After a lecture
given to a learned society, which it had been an honour to be asked to
address,
I was accosted by a lady, invited for the occasion, with the remark, "I
was disappointed in what you told us. You never said what you had to
eat."
This, and many similar experiences, are the apology for the
trivialities of
this work. No
attempt has been made to write any sort of a guide book to the varied
places
touched at by the yacht, neither space nor knowledge permitted; all
that has
been done either by pen or pencil is to try to give the main impression
left on
the mind of a passing dweller in their harbours and anchorages. It has,
however, been found by experience that, in accounts of travel, the
general
reader loses much of the pleasure which has been experienced by the
writer,
through knowledge being assumed of the history of the places visited; a
knowledge which the traveller himself has absorbed almost
unconsciously.
Without some acquaintance with past events the present cannot be
understood; at
the risk, therefore, of interrupting the narrative, a few notes of such
history
have been included. In
dealing with the main topic of the work, an endeavour has been made to
give
some idea of the problem of Easter Island as the Expedition found it,
and also
of its work there. With regard to this part, some appeal is necessary
to the
understanding kindness of the reader, for it has not been an easy tale
to tell,
nor one which could be straightforwardly recounted. The story of Easter
is as
yet a tangled skein. The dim past, to which the megalithic works bear
witness —
the island as the early voyagers found it — its more recent history and
present
state, all of these are intermingled threads, none of which can be
followed
without reference to the remaining clues. For those
who would have preferred more scientific and fewer personal details, I
can only
humbly say wait, there is another volume in prospect with descriptions
and
dimensions of some two hundred and sixty burial-places on the island,
thousands
of measurements of statues, and other really absorbing matter. The
numerical
statements in the present book, dealing with archaeological remains,
must be
considered approximate till it has been possible to go again through
the large
collection of notes. It is
fairly obvious why the writing of this story has fallen to the share of
the
sole feminine member of the Expedition. I had also, what was, in spite
of all
things, the good fortune to be fourteen weeks longer on the island than
my
husband. They were fat weeks too, when the first lean ones, with their
inevitable difficulties, were past; and the unsettlement towards the
end had
not arrived. He has, I need hardly say, given me every assistance with
this
work. Generally speaking, all things which it is possible to touch and
handle,
buildings, weapons, and ornaments, were in his department; while things
of a
less tangible description, such as religion, history, and folk-lore
fell to my
lot. Those who know him will recognise his touches throughout, and the
account
of the last part of the voyage, after my return to England, has been
written by
him. The photographs, when not otherwise stated, are by members of the
Expedition. The drawings are from sketches made by the Author; those of
the
burial-places are from notebook outlines made in the course of work.
The
diagrams of the houses and burial-places are by my husband. We are
deeply grateful, both personally and on behalf of the Expedition, for
all the
aid, both public and private, extended to our work in the interests of
science.
We hesitate to allude to it in detail in connection with what may, it
is to be
feared, seem an unworthy book, but we cannot refrain from taking this,
the
earliest, opportunity of acknowledging our obligations. The Admiralty
lent the
Expedition a Lieutenant on full pay for navigation and survey. The
Royal
Society honoured it by bestowing a grant of £100, and the British
Association
by appointing a committee to further its interests accompanied by a
small gift.
Valuable scientific instruments were lent by both the Admiralty and
Royal
Geographical Society. We are
indebted to Sir Hercules Read and Captain T. A. Joyce, of the
Ethnological
Department of the British Museum, for the initial suggestion and much
personal
help. In our own University of Oxford the practical sympathy of Dr.
Marett has
been fully given from the time the project was first mooted till he
read the
proofs of the scientific part of this work; we owe more to such
encouragement
for any success attained than perhaps he himself realises. Mr. Henry
Balfour
has placed us, and all who are interested in the subject, under the
greatest
obligation for his work on our results which has thrown a flood of
light on the
culture of Easter Island, and has, in perhaps greater degree than
anything
else, made the Expedition seem "worth while." Dr. Rivers, of
Cambridge, kindly undertook the position of Correspondent in connection
with
the committee of the British Association, and has put at our disposal
his great
knowledge of the Pacific. Dr. Haddon has also been good enough to allow
us to
avail ourselves of his intimate acquaintance with its problems. Dr.
Corney has
rendered constant and unique assistance with regard to the accounts of
Easter
Island as given by the early voyagers, a line of research most
important in its
bearings. Our thanks are due to Dr. Seligman for kind interest, to
Professor
Keith for his report on the two Pitcairn Islanders who returned with
the yacht,
and his examination of our osteological collection; to Dr. Thomas of
the
Geological Survey for his report of the rocks brought back; and not
least to
Mr. Sydney Ray, who has given most valuable time to our vocabularies of
the
language. With
regard to our journeyings and labours in the field, we are under great
obligation to Mr. Edwards, the Chilean Minister in London, through
whose
representations his Government were good enough to grant us special
facilities
in their ports. The Expedition owes much to Messrs. Balfour &
Williamson of
London, and the firms connected with them in Chile, California, and New
York;
most especially to Messrs. Williamson & Balfour of Valparaiso for
their
permission to visit Easter Island and help throughout. We are also very
grateful to the manager of the ranch, Mr. Percy Edmunds, for his
practical aid
on the island; since we left he has obtained for us a skin of the
sacred bird
which we had been unable to procure, and forwarded with it the negative
of fig.
65, taken at our request. It has
been impossible in the compass of this book to express our gratitude to
all
those who gave help and hospitality on both the outward and homeward
voyage. We
can only ask them to believe that we do not forget, and that the
friendship of
many is, we trust, a permanent possession. For
professional help in the production of this book it is a pleasure to
acknowledge the skill and patience of Miss A. Hunter, who has assisted
in
preparing the sketches, and of Mr. Gear, President of the Royal
Photographic
Society, who has worked up the negatives; also of Mr. F. Batchelor, of
the
Royal Geographical Society, who has drawn all the maps. It has
not, as will be readily understood, been always an easy matter to write
of such
different interests amidst the urgent claims and stupendous events
since the
time of our return; but if any soul rendered sad by the war, or
anxiously
facing the problems of a new world, finds a few hours' rest surrounded
by the
blue of the sea or face to face with the everlasting calm of the great
statues,
then it will give very real happiness to The
Stewardess of the MANA, February 1919. PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION The
second edition of a book affords opportunity to tender grateful thanks
for the
interest which has made it necessary. It is also one of the occasions
when fate
allows, in some measure at any rate, a chance to repair shortcomings. It was
felt in writing this volume that it was best to leave the work of the
Expedition to tell as far as possible its own tale. Life, however, is
short and
books are many. Outside the circle of those with special scientific
knowledge,
this method seems, in spite of Chapter XIX, to have led too often, with
even
the kindest of readers and reviewers, to a certain vagueness as to what
has,
after all, really been accomplished. Some express disappointment that
the
problem is "unsolved if not insoluble"; others state, not without
lingering regret, that "there is no longer any mystery." Neither view
is, of course, correct. It is, therefore, perhaps worth while, even at
the cost
of repeating what may be implicit elsewhere, to add a few more definite
words. It was
never anticipated that any Expedition could settle once and for all the
past
history of Easter Island. In dealing with any scientific problem, the
first
step naturally is to find out all that can be discovered about the
material in
question; while the second is to co-ordinate that material with similar
examples elsewhere, so that knowledge which may fail from one source,
can be
supplied from another. The
Expedition, therefore, as one of its primary undertakings, made an
archaeological
survey of the island. It was a lengthy work, for not only are the
figures and
ruins very numerous, but it was found that not till after some six
months'
study could they even be seen with intelligent eyes. We believe the
survey to
be, however, as far as possible accurate and complete. It is
illustrated by
some hundreds of sketches and negatives. The only
account of this kind which has so far been available is the rough, and
naturally often erroneous, description given by the United States ship
Mohican
after a thirteen days' examination in 1886. Speaking of this part of
our
labours, a high authority has been good enough to say, "We now know for
the first time in what the remains on the island really consist; its
photographs alone would justify the Expedition." This record will, we
venture to think, hold increased value in the future, as there is a
constant
tendency for the remains to suffer deterioration at the hands of nature
and
man. The
Expedition, however, found other and unexpected matter to secure from
oblivion
— work which was of even greater, because of more pressing, importance.
We had
been informed that not only had all knowledge of the origin of the
great works
disappeared from the island, but that all memory of the early native
culture before
the advent of Christianity, which might possibly have thrown light upon
them,
was also gone. Happily this proved to be not altogether the case. When
we
arrived, such knowledge and tradition were expiring, but they were not
altogether dead. It was our good fortune, in spite of language and
other
difficulties, to be able with patience to rescue at the eleventh hour
much of
high value, more especially that which points to a connection between
the only
recently expired bird cult and that of the images. The facts
now before us make clear that the present inhabitants of the island are
derived
from a union of the two great stocks of the Pacific, the Melanesian and
Polynesian races, and that the Melanesian element has played a large
part in
its development. All the evidence gathered, whether derived from the
stone
remains, through the surviving natives, or in other ways, points to the
conclusion that these people are connected by blood with the makers of
the
statues; this is, of course, the crucial point. Now that
this stage is reached, the problem at once falls into its right
category, and
we enter on the second phase of scientific quest. Easter Island is no
longer an
isolated mystery, there is no need to indulge in surmises as to sunken
continents, it becomes part of the whole question of the culture of the
Pacific
and of the successive waves of migration which have passed through it. On this
large and difficult subject many able minds are at work, and some
striking
results, already drawn from the labours of the Expedition, are included
in this
volume. When we have more definite knowledge as to the nature and date
of these
migrations which have come from the west by such stepping-stones as
Pitcairn
Island, or by the Marquesas and Paumotu groups, then we shall be able
to deduce
still further information about Easter Island. When more is ascertained
of the
stone works scattered throughout other islands, we shall speak with
greater
certainty as to whether a first or second wave of immigrants, or both
combined,
are responsible for its monoliths. We have a very fair idea now, when,
and
perhaps why, the cult of the statues ended; even if there are no
further
discoveries on the island, we hope in these ways to learn when and how
it
began. There is
much we shall never know — the thoughts which passed through the minds
of those
old image makers as they worked at their craft, the scenes enacted as
their
humbler neighbours toilsomely moved the great figures to their place,
the weird
ceremonies which doubtless marked their erection, not least the story
of the
persistence which erected and re-erected the burying-places after again
and yet
again they had been destroyed — such things are gone for ever. But the
broad
outlines and events of the story, with their approximate dates, to
these there
is every prospect we shall attain with reasonable certainty, and that
before
very many years have elapsed. K. R. April 1920. PART I THE VOYAGE TO EASTER ISLAND CHAPTER I THE START Why we went to Easter Island — The Building and Equipping of the Yacht — The Start from Southampton — Dartmouth — Falmouth. CHAPTER II THE VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA A Gale at Sea — Madeira — Canary Islands — Cape Verde Islands — Across the Atlantic. CHAPTER III BRAZIL Pernambuco — Bahia — Cabral Bay — Cape Frio — Rio de Janeiro — Porto Bello — A Pampero. CHAPTER IV ARGENTINA The River Plate — Buenos Aires, its Trade and People. CHAPTER V PATAGONIA Port Desire — Eastern Magellan Straits — Punta Arenas — Western Magellan Straits — Patagonian Channels. CHAPTER VI CHILE Refitting at Talcahuano — Trip to Santiago and across the Summit of the Andes — Valparaiso — To Juan Fernandez — Typhoid on Board — Back to Chile — Juan Fernandez again. CHAPTER VII JUAN FERNANDEZ The Island — Selkirk — Anson — Fate of the Dresden. CHAPTER VIII LIFE ON BOARD PART II EASTER ISLAND CHAPTER IX ARRIVAL AT EASTER ISLAND First Impressions — The Story of the El Dorado — Mana despatched. CHAPTER X CONDITIONS OF LIFE ON THE ISLAND Description of the Island — Accommodation — Climate — Food — Labour. CHAPTER XI A NATIVE RISING A Declaration of Independence — Cattle-raiding— A Mission which failed — Bad to Worse — Arrival of a Chilean Warship. CHAPTER XII A GERMAN BASE A Visit from Von Spee — First news of the War — S. R. goes to Chile — The Prinz Eitel Friedrich — Return of Mana — Departure of the Expedition. CHAPTER XIII PREHISTORIC REMAINS AHU OR BURIAL-PLACES Form of the Easter Island Image — Position and Number of the Ahu — Design and Construction of the Image Ahu — Reconstruction and Transformation — The Semi-pyramid Ahu — The Overthrow of the Images and Destruction of the Ahu. CHAPTER XIV PREHISTORIC REMAINS (continued) STATUES AND CROWNS Rano Raraku, its Quarries and Standing Statues — The Southeast Face of the Mountain — Isolated Statues — Roads — Stone Crowns of the Images. CHAPTER XV NATIVE CULTURE IN PRE-CHRISTIAN TIMES Sources of Information: History, Recent Remains, Living Memory — Mode of Life: Habitations, Food, Dress and Ornament — Social Life: Divisions, Wars, Marriages, Burial Customs, Social Functions. CHAPTER XVI NATIVE CULTURE IN PRE-CHRISTIAN TIMES (continued) Religion — Position of the Miru Clan — The Script— The Bird Cult — Wooden Carvings. CHAPTER XVII CAVES AND CAVE-HUNTING Residential Caves — Caves as Hiding-Places for Treasure — Burial Caves. CHAPTER XVIII LEGENDS First Arrival on the Island — The Long Ears exterminated by the Short Ears — The Struggle between Kotuu and Hotu Iti. CHAPTER XIX THE PRESENT POSITION OF THE PROBLEM PART III THE HOMEWARD VOYAGE EASTER ISLAND TO SAN FRANCISCO CHAPTER XX PITCAIRN ISLAND A Kind Welcome — Religion — Administration — Economic Problems — Physique — Native Remains — A Glimpse of Rapa. CHAPTER XXI TAHITI, HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, SAN FRANCISCO Tahiti — Voyage to Hawaiian Islands — Oahu, with its capital Honolulu — Visit to Island of Hawaii — San Francisco — The Author returns to England. PART IV THE HOMEWARD VOYAGE — Continued SAN FRANCISCO TO SOUTHAMPTON By S. R. CHAPTER XXII SAN FRANCISCO TO PANAMA Catching Turtle — The Island of Socorro and what we found there — The tale of a Russian Finn — Quibo Island — Suffering of the Natives from Elephantiasis — A Haul with the Seine. CHAPTER XXIII PANAMA TO JAMAICA Navigation of the Gulf of Panama — Balboa and the City of Panama — Through the Canal — Cristobal — An Incapable Pilot — The Education of a Cook — A Waterspout — A Further Exciting Experience. CHAPTER XXIV JAMAICA TO SOUTHAMPTON Jamaica, and the Bahamas — Bermudas — Azores — Preparing for Submarines — Southampton once more, EPILOGUE ITINERARY OF THE EXPEDITION |